Perfect Beads, but Wormholes on Joints?
Posted: Wed Sep 10, 2014 6:37 pm
I will have to edit this post in a few minutes/hours to add the pictures sorry about this, you guys should still be able to get the just of the problem.
First post here. I'm a beginner stick welder and I know basics about electrode types and what drag angle to use on different electrodes and what amp settings to use based on thickness of base metal and all that kinda basic stuff. I've gotten pretty good at laying beads, I'll include some pictures of my good beads (I'm sure they aren't perfect but for just repairing simple things around the house I'm sure they are plenty good enough, that's not saying I want to get better though). I'm practicing with things like 6010, 6013, and some of these x-ergon #106 rods I found in m grandfather's stash, and I can't find a ton of info on them but they say they are for multi-steel application and they weld surprisingly well, they are some of my favorite rods.
So I can lay a bead down, melting an entire stick and I rarely run into skips or blobs or wormholes in my beads, but when I transfer this to practicing a t-joint with the same thickness base metal and same type of electrode and adjust my drag angle (correctly) accordingly, I almost never get a nice bead joining the metal. It's always an inch here that's nice looking, then some wormholes or some just nasty looking deposit of metal. Included are some pictures of what I'm talking about. And the thing that bugs me is that it seems almost random when it messes up and when it runs good. One side of a joint will be just about perfect, and when I run the other side it'll be horrific.
I think that maybe it could be the fact that these electrodes have been around here for years. Probably 10-15 years most of them. However the fact that I can lay a near perfect bead with them makes me think that isn't the issue (even though having old electrodes exposed to atmospheric conditions isn't a good idea for any professional work). I guess there's just something I'm missing that I can't figure out myself. Maybe it's as simple as tweaking my amp setting but I've tried a lot of stuff. Like I said sometimes I get a nice looking joint, and then other times I get a horrible looking joint.
Sorry for the long post but I wanted to make sure I get you guys all the details and I hope someone can point out what I'm doing wrong, any info is greatly appreciated thank you.
First post here. I'm a beginner stick welder and I know basics about electrode types and what drag angle to use on different electrodes and what amp settings to use based on thickness of base metal and all that kinda basic stuff. I've gotten pretty good at laying beads, I'll include some pictures of my good beads (I'm sure they aren't perfect but for just repairing simple things around the house I'm sure they are plenty good enough, that's not saying I want to get better though). I'm practicing with things like 6010, 6013, and some of these x-ergon #106 rods I found in m grandfather's stash, and I can't find a ton of info on them but they say they are for multi-steel application and they weld surprisingly well, they are some of my favorite rods.
So I can lay a bead down, melting an entire stick and I rarely run into skips or blobs or wormholes in my beads, but when I transfer this to practicing a t-joint with the same thickness base metal and same type of electrode and adjust my drag angle (correctly) accordingly, I almost never get a nice bead joining the metal. It's always an inch here that's nice looking, then some wormholes or some just nasty looking deposit of metal. Included are some pictures of what I'm talking about. And the thing that bugs me is that it seems almost random when it messes up and when it runs good. One side of a joint will be just about perfect, and when I run the other side it'll be horrific.
I think that maybe it could be the fact that these electrodes have been around here for years. Probably 10-15 years most of them. However the fact that I can lay a near perfect bead with them makes me think that isn't the issue (even though having old electrodes exposed to atmospheric conditions isn't a good idea for any professional work). I guess there's just something I'm missing that I can't figure out myself. Maybe it's as simple as tweaking my amp setting but I've tried a lot of stuff. Like I said sometimes I get a nice looking joint, and then other times I get a horrible looking joint.
Sorry for the long post but I wanted to make sure I get you guys all the details and I hope someone can point out what I'm doing wrong, any info is greatly appreciated thank you.
