Welding Tips and Tricks

Good day folks,i need your assistance for a job am about to do.i have to weld a hydraulic bracket for a new Kalimar straddle crane being set up.The bracket was welded in the wrong place and will have to be removed and re-welded.would anyone have an idea of the material that makes this and the type of electrode best suited for the job? Its down by the port so stick welding is the process i will be using.i am a shop welder welding aluminum tubes,air coolers,rims,turbo and intake modifications all day,i never had a job like this before since being self employed so if any one could assist me in arriving at a costing.below is a photo of the job.

Will you also be responsible for repairing the coating after the relocation of the bracket?

Hard to tell from the pic, is the beam that bracket is welded to, a built up piece made out of plate, or is it a rolled section? If it's a rolled section, you may be dealing with a ASTM A992 beam and ASTM A572 Gr50 Plate for the bracket. Although, the beam flanges look too square on the toes and in the "k" area(where the web meets the flanges) to be a rolled section, but again it's hard to tell from the pics .

Is there anyway to contact the hoist mfg to ask them about the materials used before throwing a estimate out to the customer?

I'm thinking the original was shop welded with a fairly large diameter FCAW wire of some sort, just guessing by the large diameter pore of porosity where they started welding.

Might be to late for a response now but I agree on the material mentioned and would recommend simple 1/8"-5/32" 7018. Good luck to you!
-Jonathan

I'm going to echo Jonathan's comment, thought in the absense of engineering guidance I'd choose a fresh-from-the can/oven, guaranteed low-hydrogen rod, 7018 or 8018. This should be available somewhere on that site, and since you'll only need two or three it should be easy to sweet-talk the tool-crib person. My personal preference would be 1/8" for more control against undercutting the bracket. Since the original passed with that huge pinhole, I'd think as long as you avoid undercutting you'll be golden.

Pay attention to how the bracket is currently welded; There should be a wrap-around on the ram side that continues at least a half-inch. Making that wrap, preferably without a stop/start, is key to avoiding a "stress-riser" where that end of the bracket meets the beam.

[EDIT] On review, I see no indication in the pictures that the welds wrap the corners. That's bad practice. The welds should either stop 1/4"-1/2" from each end, or wrap the corners an equal amount, and be properly terminated (buttoned off) in either case.

Steve S

am not sure if i will be responsible for the painting when finished and yes i had requested material,rod and weld information from the manufacturer but not sure if it will be available.just in case would anyone have info on coating or could regular metal primer and paint would do?

I find it fascinating that you're more concerned about finish treatment than weld integrity, since this is not the "paintingtipsandtricks" forum...

Seriously, it occured to me to mention the painfully obvious... If the shaft is attached or even close to the bracket when you weld, be sure to provide spatter protection.

Steve S

Otto Nobedder wrote:I find it fascinating that you're more concerned about finish treatment than weld integrity, since this is not the "paintingtipsandtricks" forum...

LOL....It's been my experience that wiping off the bracket and relocating it is a piece of cake, keeping the customer happy when you didn't ask enough questions to be certain of the total scope of work and the customer's expectations is tough work.

OP stated that the hoist is down by the port, I imagine that may be a tough environment for coatings.