Stick Welding Tips, Certification tests, machines, projects
EndSupremacy
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I've done this once before, but I don't remember what the settings were on my welder. I've seen it a few times, where with the right setting, and a good pass, the slag will peel off without having to chip away at it. I have an Everlast MTS 200. It's a DC only welder. I use good old Licoln Excalibur 7018 rods. Can someone please explain to me how I can do it again?
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I am not sure there is an exact formula. You have to have the right heat setting and the right travel speed. heat settings differ from machine to machine, but for me it is about 130 amps. The heat settings probably change with travel speed, within a certain range. It is really just trial and error.
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EndSupremacy
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Thanks Louie. I'll give that setting a try and tweek it accordingly from there.
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EndSupremacy wrote:I've done this once before, but I don't remember what the settings were on my welder. I've seen it a few times, where with the right setting, and a good pass, the slag will peel off without having to chip away at it. I have an Everlast MTS 200. It's a DC only welder. I use good old Licoln Excalibur 7018 rods. Can someone please explain to me how I can do it again?
Get ahold of John from AKweldshop..he has pics of doing that.
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EndSupremacy
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exnailpounder wrote: Get ahold of John from AKweldshop..he has pics of doing that.
I'll do that. I've seen those pics. That's where I got the idea.
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Kinda hard to explain how to make the slag curl up.
I really don't even think about it.

I just weld.

It's all about a tight arc, and even, consistent travel speed.

For flat or overhead, I like 130-140 amps.

Vertical or horizontal at 110-125 amps.

DCEP, with 1/8" 7018.

Post up some pics of your welds...:)
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Just agreeing with what the others have said. Tight arc length and consistent travel speed are key.
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EndSupremacy
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Thanks all. I'll try those tips after work. See how it comes out. I'll take some pics to show.
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just getting back to stick after very very long time
and I've noticed that even travel speed keeps the puddle
size consistent and makes a uniform weld. I've yet to have he slag
curl up but it does come off in one long piece.
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Some brands of rod do it better that others.
EndSupremacy
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The first picture is flat 140 Amps at 50% arc force. I held a tight arc, even travel speed. The slag was very easy to remove, but didn't peel off. You'll notice that this is the second pass (I forgot to take a picture after the first pass). The second picture is also flat 140 Amps at 100% arc force. That was the third pass. When I was done, some of the weld didn't even have slag. The parts that did, wasn't hard to remove. Again, it never peeled off. So I kept trying different settings, but to no avail. So maybe another day.
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Right. It's not common for the slag to peel off a fillet weld because the slag is trapped by the edge of the plate.
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Once you get the tight arc, and consistent travel speed down pat., you'll have slag curling in all positions....
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John

You realize you're probably giving a lot of people the sh!ts with all those nice auto-peel slag photos. ha ha :lol:

Although I admit I can do it too most times. I find larger gauge rods help (10 gauge and up). Smaller gauge rods I'm not so consistent with. For me, 10 gauge, steady travel speed, tight arc and 125 Amps is the ticket.
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