[spartangarage]

I'm hoping someone can shed some light on my situation. On my most recent project I used my new FUPA 12 and almost every time I lit up I got flashed. I re-cleaned, etc, but it happened again. I then switched my cup back to a #8 gas lens and welded out a few joints without issue. A little later I switched back to the FUPA and got flashed again. Without cleaning the metal again or changing anything else I switched back to a gas lens and was fine. Bottom line, without any other changes I seem to get flashed with the FUPA and not with the gas lens. I want to understand what is going on, but am just scratching my head. Is there something about using the bigger cup, or having more tungsten protruding, or some other factor I'm not thinking about that would cause this to happen?

my setup, if it factors into anything:
3/32 2% lanthanated tugsten
wp9 torch
140amps DC on mild steel wire brushed and acetone wiped
HF autodarkening helmet (being replaced as we speak, Viking order is inbound)

Thanks!

[Graveyard]

I use all of the furick cup sizes and I have never had a flashing issue. Are you using the titanium shield on it? It’s possible depending on the helmet you have that it’s not letting enough light hit the sensor to make your helmet darken. I had a speedglas 9100X and I just switched to a 9100XXi. Also what machine are you running?

[spartangarage]

My machine is the Everlast Powertig 200. I’m using the ceramic version of the cup. Should have mentioned that before. I’ve not read or heard a bad thing about the cups, and I’m still going to use them when I get an understanding of what is happening. I like to study and understand the “inner workings” of whatever I’m doing, figure out problems, etc. I’m newer to welding and I don’t think I quite have a good enough grasp on it to figure this one out!

[cj737]

The clue to me, was your statement about "stick out length". If when running the 12 ceramic, you are extending the tungsten much farther, then your helmet's sensitivity is at fault. If you can, adjust the sensor to be more sensitive, not less. If you don't have that adjustment, you will when the Viking arrives.

Until then, cock your head a little until the arc establishes, then rotate the helmet back in. The sensor will react properly then.

[spartangarage]

Thanks for the insight. When I get home tonight I’ll be trying it with a shorter stick out and then moving my head as you said. I assumed the poor quality helmet was at least a contributing factor. Thanks again.

[rick9345]

If you change helmets look for one with 4 sensors and turn your sensitivity up.I have a ESAB 613XL,blue tint for alum and $39 green tint HF,use for ferrous metal,each has its place. The clear plastic lens cover always protects from UV, the flash is no worse than a bright flash-light/head lights in your eyes.

[spartangarage]

Thanks for the replies guys. I tried a few things and the extended stick out seems to be the culprit. I used the FUPA with a normal stick out and it was fine. three beads, no flash. Then I extended the electrode about 1/2 in out and the helmet failed me. So for reference, cheap helmets and the FUPA might not mix.