Hi guys, I'm new to welding and currently in school. One thing I can't quite get the hang of is finishing a weld from one edge to the other without completely melting the edges when I finish. I think it's because the metal is getting too hot. I've had some luck with lowering the amperage on the ends, but I'm not making it as clean of a start/stop as I would like.
I'm welding cold rolled steel anywhere from 3/32 thick all the way up to 1/2" (not common). Red tungsten, no pulsing.
- weldin mike 27
-
Weldmonger
-
Posts:
-
Joined:Fri Apr 01, 2011 10:59 pm
-
Location:Australia; Victoria
Jody usually peddles a nice fat tack at the start and end of his plates. Maybe this can help.
Here ya go: https://www.youtube.com/watch?time_cont ... to3s66zf38 I think this was what Mike was talking about 
Pete
Esab SVI 300, Mig 4HD wire feeder, 30A spool gun, Miller Passport, Dynasty 300 DX, Coolmate 4, Spectrum 2050, C&K Cold Wire feeder WF-3, Black Gold Tungsten Sharperner, Prime Weld 225
Esab SVI 300, Mig 4HD wire feeder, 30A spool gun, Miller Passport, Dynasty 300 DX, Coolmate 4, Spectrum 2050, C&K Cold Wire feeder WF-3, Black Gold Tungsten Sharperner, Prime Weld 225
Welding school ? If so ask the idiot "teaching" the class. If you're blowing through either cool it off or quit manipulating ther puddle and pull(or push) it straight and fast. All this cursive e and other nonsense is just that. Pretend you're a machine.i8myWeaties2day wrote:Hi guys, I'm new to welding and currently in school. One thing I can't quite get the hang of is finishing a weld from one edge to the other without completely melting the edges when I finish. I think it's because the metal is getting too hot. I've had some luck with lowering the amperage on the ends, but I'm not making it as clean of a start/stop as I would like.
I'm welding cold rolled steel anywhere from 3/32 thick all the way up to 1/2" (not common). Red tungsten, no pulsing.
I'm welding cold rolled steel anywhere from 3/32 thick all the way up to 1/2" (not common). Red tungsten, no pulsing.[/quote]
Welding school ? If so ask the idiot "teaching" the class. If you're blowing through either cool it off or quit manipulating ther puddle and pull(or push) it straight and fast. All this cursive e and other nonsense is just that. Pretend you're a machine.[/quote]
Pretty sure you didn’t read what he said. He’s not mig welding.
Welding school ? If so ask the idiot "teaching" the class. If you're blowing through either cool it off or quit manipulating ther puddle and pull(or push) it straight and fast. All this cursive e and other nonsense is just that. Pretend you're a machine.[/quote]
Pretty sure you didn’t read what he said. He’s not mig welding.
I have more questions than answers
Josh
Josh
That’s a pretty harsh assessment of someone you’ve never met (“idiot teaching the class”). For all you know, he may be a retired welder with 40 years experience who’s taken a new role to pass on his wealth of knowledge and experience to young, interested people to keep this industry healthy.Antorcha wrote: Welding school ? If so ask the idiot "teaching" the class. If you're blowing through either cool it off or quit manipulating ther puddle and pull(or push) it straight and fast. All this cursive e and other nonsense is just that. Pretend you're a machine.
Might reconsider a non-constructive post in the future and limit your input to helping, not besmirching strangers.
- MinnesotaDave
-
Weldmonger
-
Posts:
-
Joined:Sun Oct 27, 2013 10:57 pm
-
Location:Big Lake/Monticello MN, U.S.A.
It's most likely what you said, metal too hot when you get to the end.i8myWeaties2day wrote:Hi guys, I'm new to welding and currently in school. One thing I can't quite get the hang of is finishing a weld from one edge to the other without completely melting the edges when I finish. I think it's because the metal is getting too hot. I've had some luck with lowering the amperage on the ends, but I'm not making it as clean of a start/stop as I would like.
I'm welding cold rolled steel anywhere from 3/32 thick all the way up to 1/2" (not common). Red tungsten, no pulsing.
As said above, a nice tack where you are going to finish can help you out.
Get used to lowering the amps as you approach the end, add a little extra and taper off the amps.
If you use a machine without a pedal, a run-off tab is sometimes a great help.
Another option is to stop momentarily right before the end, let it cool a few seconds, then light up and finish it off.
Another option is to stop before you get to the end, then turn around and weld from the end to where you stopped.
Dave J.
Beware of false knowledge; it is more dangerous than ignorance. ~George Bernard Shaw~
Syncro 350
Invertec v250-s
Thermal Arc 161 and 300
MM210
Dialarc
Tried being normal once, didn't take....I think it was a Tuesday.
Beware of false knowledge; it is more dangerous than ignorance. ~George Bernard Shaw~
Syncro 350
Invertec v250-s
Thermal Arc 161 and 300
MM210
Dialarc
Tried being normal once, didn't take....I think it was a Tuesday.
As already has been posted, I usually put a tack on the end to absorb some of the heat. Obviously you'll want to gradually decrease the amperage as the part heats up
When you first start welding it's more like melting metal together than a controlled welding process, at least IME. As such you are correct that it's easy to burn the beginning and ending edges away. All of the suggestions by other folks are valid and useful. What you will learn with practice is how to add just enough heat to run a good fluid weld puddle without excessive heat. Tapering off the heat during a longer weld as the material heat soaks will help to control the puddle. As noted by others adding a dab of filler rod as you are tapering off at the end of a weld will help prevent blow-out and cold cracking of the weld, especially on aluminum. Too much heat is usually the problem.