Only thing I can think of thats causing this is poor filler metal. This started happening last night and again this afternoon. Cleaning action in front of the puddle looks great and the puddle is nice and shiney and fluid, but it cools weird on the surface.
Filler was wiped with acetone and base metal was lightly buffed with scotch brite then wiped with acetone. Filler is cheap 4043 from Harbor Freight, but the first few rods didn't have thisnissue. Fresh tungsten with no contamination, and same bottle of gas. Gas lense and cup are clean. Max amps were 80 on the 1/8" bar and going maybe an in h every 8 to 10 seconds after the puddle got going.
Milled one weld down on another plate and there was only one tiny spot of porosity along the 3" bead that popped up.
Other than crappy filler rod, what could likely be causing this?
4043 is very prone to become grainy when cooled. It looks pretty normal for crappy 4043.
You really need to crank your amps up to weld ally. 1/8” ally I weld with my box set st 170 and then pedal off. 80 is too cold to get it done correctly. That’s why the interior of the plate is super hot but the oxide layer hasn’t cleaned off. Go 150-170, 68%, 15cfh, and 120hz and see how it goes. Bet you’ll see the difference and find it much easier.
You really need to crank your amps up to weld ally. 1/8” ally I weld with my box set st 170 and then pedal off. 80 is too cold to get it done correctly. That’s why the interior of the plate is super hot but the oxide layer hasn’t cleaned off. Go 150-170, 68%, 15cfh, and 120hz and see how it goes. Bet you’ll see the difference and find it much easier.
Normal? Thats weird, lol.
The burn through issue was actually me having the machine set wrong. I thought I was adjusting EN but was actually adjusting EP, so I was up around 80 to 90EP. Silved the unstable arc, slow puddle, and and tungsten issues.
I'll give more amps a try later. I thought Inwas running too hot af 120 so backed it downn admitedly way too much, but was only focused on the graininess.
The burn through issue was actually me having the machine set wrong. I thought I was adjusting EN but was actually adjusting EP, so I was up around 80 to 90EP. Silved the unstable arc, slow puddle, and and tungsten issues.
I'll give more amps a try later. I thought Inwas running too hot af 120 so backed it downn admitedly way too much, but was only focused on the graininess.
"Your welds should sound like bacon. If your welds smell like bacon, you're on fire." - Uncle Bumblefuck (AvE)
- tungstendipper
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So what aluminum filler rod do you like?cj737 wrote:4043 is very prone to become grainy when cooled. It looks pretty normal for crappy 4043.
You really need to crank your amps up to weld ally. 1/8” ally I weld with my box set st 170 and then pedal off. 80 is too cold to get it done correctly. That’s why the interior of the plate is super hot but the oxide layer hasn’t cleaned off. Go 150-170, 68%, 15cfh, and 120hz and see how it goes. Bet you’ll see the difference and find it much easier.
Lincoln MP 210, Lincoln Square Wave 200,
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Everlast 210 EXT
Thermal Dynamics 25 Plasma cutter
" Anything that carries your livelihood wants to be welded so that Thor can’t break it."
CJ737
For my uses, 4943 has replaced 4043 and I also use 5356 when strength matters or the work piece is "exterior" or "marine". I had to have my LWS order in 10# boxes of 4943 in 3 sizes, but, they now stock it and I use a lot of it anyway. Cheaper to buy it by the 10# lot anyway.tungstendipper wrote:So what aluminum filler rod do you like?cj737 wrote:4043 is very prone to become grainy when cooled. It looks pretty normal for crappy 4043.
Well at 80-90%, you would be burning through pretty quickly with little cleaning action.Demented wrote: The burn through issue was actually me having the machine set wrong. I thought I was adjusting EN but was actually adjusting EP, so I was up around 80 to 90EP. Silved the unstable arc, slow puddle, and and tungsten issues.
You can't fear the heat with ally TIG. That's why you need a good filler diameter, and you may think you're getting a good weld but at 80 amps, you're won't get any strength or penetration (under normal balance settings).Do a two-sided butt joint of 1/8" with your settings. Then crank the amps and do it again on a new piece. Let them cool, and bend test them in a vise. See what results you get.
I know there was hardly any penetration. Was just giving it a try seeing if I was running too hot and slow but wasn't the case
Edit: At the 80-90 EP I was having massive issues with the tungsten melting, cup exploding, and not even getting a puddle going on 1/16" at 160amps. Still not too sure what was happening, but turned it down to between 30 and 60% on the dial and it's running more like what I've seen in videos before and just acting more normal. Hasn't happened since so, I'm at a total loss. Turns out the Everlast is the opposite of Miller machines when it comes to the balance so I was way the wrong way.
I remember when I got my Dynasty 200DX it came with a book of a manual and exained everything so well. This Everlast came with a manual smaller than most Harbor Freight tools.
Edit: At the 80-90 EP I was having massive issues with the tungsten melting, cup exploding, and not even getting a puddle going on 1/16" at 160amps. Still not too sure what was happening, but turned it down to between 30 and 60% on the dial and it's running more like what I've seen in videos before and just acting more normal. Hasn't happened since so, I'm at a total loss. Turns out the Everlast is the opposite of Miller machines when it comes to the balance so I was way the wrong way.
I remember when I got my Dynasty 200DX it came with a book of a manual and exained everything so well. This Everlast came with a manual smaller than most Harbor Freight tools.
"Your welds should sound like bacon. If your welds smell like bacon, you're on fire." - Uncle Bumblefuck (AvE)
I came home with 1/16" tonght. ~140 amps then backing off with the foot pedal was much better. Blew holes in almost everything but found the spot on the pedal that seemed to work.cj737 wrote:4043 is very prone to become grainy when cooled. It looks pretty normal for crappy 4043.
You really need to crank your amps up to weld ally. 1/8” ally I weld with my box set st 170 and then pedal off. 80 is too cold to get it done correctly. That’s why the interior of the plate is super hot but the oxide layer hasn’t cleaned off. Go 150-170, 68%, 15cfh, and 120hz and see how it goes. Bet you’ll see the difference and find it much easier.
Still graininess in every weld so I guess it's just the rod. Happened even on freshly machined surfaces.
I'll see how it goes tomorrow. Going to force myself to work slower tomorrow and actually get some welding done. Just been so happy to be welding again that I''ve been going weld after weld after weld and not quenching the practice pads or just setting it aside and letting things cool. Kept ignoring the metal being way too hot and not really caring about massive melt through and kept adjusting body position and actually remembering to move my body and arm with the weld and not moving my wrist back and forth.
"Your welds should sound like bacon. If your welds smell like bacon, you're on fire." - Uncle Bumblefuck (AvE)
Went down to 78ish amps, and got maybe 80% penetration. Even 90 amps today was blowing holes in everything instantly. Going to try mote heat and more speed again tonight on some larger pieces.
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"Your welds should sound like bacon. If your welds smell like bacon, you're on fire." - Uncle Bumblefuck (AvE)
BillE.Dee
- BillE.Dee
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I'm finding out that when I get things warmed up I better be trucking and stuffing. I use 4043 and finding it to be grainy after cooling unless I am really moving. Sometimes I get moving so fast that I fall right off my perch. by the time I get back up, things have cooled off a bit and I'm good to go.
- LtBadd
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As long as you keep getting back up!BillE.Dee wrote:I'm finding out that when I get things warmed up I better be trucking and stuffing. I use 4043 and finding it to be grainy after cooling unless I am really moving. Sometimes I get moving so fast that I fall right off my perch. by the time I get back up, things have cooled off a bit and I'm good to go.
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Funny you say that. I fall off my stool at least once a day. Only so far you can lean until gravity kicks you in the butt.BillE.Dee wrote:I'm finding out that when I get things warmed up I better be trucking and stuffing. I use 4043 and finding it to be grainy after cooling unless I am really moving. Sometimes I get moving so fast that I fall right off my perch. by the time I get back up, things have cooled off a bit and I'm good to go.
I finally got the voice in my head to shut up about particular amperages and to just use the foot pedal as it's intended. Things have been much better without that guy screaming.
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BillE.Dee
- BillE.Dee
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I had a pretty ruff go of it a few years back. Had my butt run over by some drunk in a pickup so now I have a lot of issues with co-ordination and balance. Things just don't work like they used to but everyday on top is a plus and just so much fun learning. GOD bless America and thanks for your service LT.