Ok guys I'm new to this and I am struggling. I wanted to video myself but can't figure how to do it just yet so a still pic will have to do for now. I am having trouble starting a bead without washing the edge out, and ending leaves a small crater. It seems when I end I will add an extra dab and looks ok until it cools. (scratching head). The one bead that has a tit on the end bead I don't know what happened ,looked like a volcano when I was welding, maybe an impurity in the metal???? dunno. This is only my 2nd coupon on steel. 3/16 x 2, 3/32 2% lantinathed electrode, 130 amps with foot pedal, about 18 CFH argon, 3/32 ER70S-2 filler. Beads 1st to last are in order left to right, beads start at top to bottom. Starting with the 5th bead from the left I used just the slightest bit of weave with the electrode and it seems to have helped some. Also when I dab it seams like I'm not getting a good puddle freeze or at least a pronounce one. Coach me guys.
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I'm no expert by far, but I have been learning. The top looks too cold, the bottom too hot, the one or two in the center are just right except for the cratering. The craters in the middle look like an impurity that blew up.
The rule which I have found to be true is cleanliness is godliness when it comes to tig. I blast off the mill scale with a flapper disc on my grinder and then wipe down with acetone and let it flash off and dry before I begin welding.
I use a 2% thoriated tungsten for most everything and I like the arc start with it.
I dont have much more good advice than this.
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The rule which I have found to be true is cleanliness is godliness when it comes to tig. I blast off the mill scale with a flapper disc on my grinder and then wipe down with acetone and let it flash off and dry before I begin welding.
I use a 2% thoriated tungsten for most everything and I like the arc start with it.
I dont have much more good advice than this.
Sent from my SM-J727T1 using Tapatalk
You don't mention the cup size, but 18CFH is pretty high unless you're using a #12 cup or so. This isn't your problem, just some input.
As to your results...
Starting a weld bead at the edge will almost certainly blow out unless you are adding filler immediately, almost starting up on the filler. Start inside the edge to light up, then back track and add filler, then move ahead. Craters occur when you don't taper off your heat at the end; essentially "snapping off" the arc. Again, taper the heat, and slightly backtrack into your puddle to avoid these craters. Or, add extra filler at the end, or leave the filler in the puddle. Let it cool, then snap/twist the filler off.
Travel distance seems to be your greatest challenge at the moment. That produces the most even spacing of the puddle ripples (freeze lines). Heat looks fine, but your beads show a bit of a too flat rock angle. Too much of a "push" angle. Try keeping the torch more upright and your bead ripples will become more uniform.
They surely don't look like crap for a new welder though!!!
As to your results...
Starting a weld bead at the edge will almost certainly blow out unless you are adding filler immediately, almost starting up on the filler. Start inside the edge to light up, then back track and add filler, then move ahead. Craters occur when you don't taper off your heat at the end; essentially "snapping off" the arc. Again, taper the heat, and slightly backtrack into your puddle to avoid these craters. Or, add extra filler at the end, or leave the filler in the puddle. Let it cool, then snap/twist the filler off.
Travel distance seems to be your greatest challenge at the moment. That produces the most even spacing of the puddle ripples (freeze lines). Heat looks fine, but your beads show a bit of a too flat rock angle. Too much of a "push" angle. Try keeping the torch more upright and your bead ripples will become more uniform.
They surely don't look like crap for a new welder though!!!