[Poland308]

https://www.asedeals.com/other-tools-an ... ter-based/

[aeroplain]

I'm far from what I call expert and my boss tells me my welds are awesome also; I think not. From what I see in the pics is that you're using a grit type wheel on the material. I find that it can impregnate impurities causing issues with my welds and spits at my electrode sometimes. I've had bad electrodes in the same pack too. Tried cutting it in half, still no good. Grabbed another, no problem. It looks like a combo of issues to me.

[Toggatug]

I'm far from what I call expert and my boss tells me my welds are awesome also; I think not. From what I see in the pics is that you're using a grit type wheel on the material. I find that it can impregnate impurities causing issues with my welds and spits at my electrode sometimes. I've had bad electrodes in the same pack too. Tried cutting it in half, still no good. Grabbed another, no problem. It looks like a combo of issues to me.

I agree that a flapper wheel might drive stuff into the metal. But I do have a pretty delicate touch with it.

I've tried my scotch brites but they just don't touch the OE powder coat (really probe to smearing)and tried my carbide saw blade but that was much too tricky to clean without gouging and sometimes I'm working with units that have been painted a zillion times which only adds to he fun.

Used to sandblast the tanks but found that really punched things into the Ally. But figured it was the best bet due to speed and getting 100% of the paint off without having to gouge out of corrosion pockmarks. That and he fact that blasting is just kinda second nature to me due to cleaning hundred of copper brass/assemblies with no issues. Oh well learning as I go like I've always done.

But that's apples and oranges if I look at the rebuild process for the two types of units so it makes sense one way isn't the best for the other.


Hmm perhaps one day I can convince the boss to get one of those fancy lasers that just vaporizes anything off the metal.....least I can dream right?

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[aeroplain]

I have similar dreams( let me get real;They are fantasies) at my shop.

[Poland308]

You can get small sanding pads that go on instead of the scotch brite pads.

[Toggatug]

You can get small sanding pads that go on instead of the scotch brite pads.

Yeah we've got them in a few different grits.

I find 25k rpm and a sanding disc just load up with the powder coat and stop working if I try and do all the sanding with them. They're good for getting into the nooks where the 4 1/2 flappers won't get without having to dig it's way in first so to speak





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[BillE.Dee]

I'm just chiming in here. On the oil cooler welds is it possible that the oil from within is being drawn out from the heat of the tig torch and the cleaning action? I did a tank that had "something" in it and had porosity coming from somewhere even though I cleaned and cleaned before welding.
And if there is paint on the exterior, I haven't found any way to get it off without working on the top surface first and then the base metal.
That takes care of my two cents. Have a wonderful day and let us know what you discover.
Bill

[Toggatug]

I'm just chiming in here. On the oil cooler welds is it possible that the oil from within is being drawn out from the heat of the tig torch and the cleaning action? I did a tank that had "something" in it and had porosity coming from somewhere even though I cleaned and cleaned before welding.
And if there is paint on the exterior, I haven't found any way to get it off without working on the top surface first and then the base metal.
That takes care of my two cents. Have a wonderful day and let us know what you discover.
Bill

I get what your saying with contaminants leeching out. To be honest that's probably half the work I do when it's repairs or patchups.

And yes when I don't disassemble the unit for a new core it can be a nightmare sometimes battling with what's inside.

We can flush and steam wash till the cows come home and follow it with a chemical rinse inside and I swear a good 80% of the time once the heat from whatever repair process I'm doing starts getting into the unit somehow there's more crud coming out of it or I can hear it pooping and hissing inside.


Luckily on that job it was a recore so the core side of the weld is brand new material but the tank is re used. The tank gets a steam wash inside and outside once more then I take the powder coat off with a flapper wheel then scotchbrite to smooth it out. After that I blow it off with air and then wipe it down with acetone till more no shiny grey residue comes off it.


Will definitely keep everyone posted if I get to the bottom of things


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[Toggatug]

Definitely leanig to some of my problems being from the core. Here's two pics both of the same unit. One if the corner seam weld of the tank which is very clean.

Then the exact same tank welded to the core had alot of smut float in the weld.

Guess its time for me to road trip 12 hours north to see the core manufacturer a d find out what they do different for the prep of the core. Or if they have dirt in the weld too aha.

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[Arno]

The actual cooling channels/tubes are usually brazed into the side plates on coolers like these.

May well be that some sort of (liquid) flux is applied in the factory to help with that process and ene though it's likely cleaned afterwards, it likely has also worked/permiated it's way into the top layer of the alu around it and it's boiling out as you weld onto it.

Good idea to see if their own products show the same effects. If so then it's just par for the course.

Bye, Arno.