[Oscar]

I like the power gauge! Maybe you could let us knows what a 1/4"x 12" filet weld uses etc.? Stick vs tig? Cheers

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Sure, but I guess it just depends on if I have the scrap to do so.

One thing I was very surprised is just how much amperage/power plasma cutting consumes! I put an identical meter on my generator extension (Texas Power Strip #2; 135ft of 6/4) while I was working on the original Texas Power Strip #1, and I was using 30A of plasma cutting amperage, and it was consuming all 7kW at the generator!

[Poland308]

Curious to know what the voltage drop was by the time it got to the other end. That could account for the high draw you saw on the generator side.

[Oscar]

Curious to know what the voltage drop was by the time it got to the other end. That could account for the high draw you saw on the generator side.

No load, the voltage was 238-239V at the power strip. Under-load the voltage dropped to 225V, but I don't think that is a consequence of the extended wires, more so because the needed current and the generator being maxxed out. I think I have an extra L14-30P that I could wire to a short 1 ft pigtail to test it a lot closer to the generator. I suspect it might be a little better but not by much. Last night I tested it on the house 240V (which usually reads 243-247V), and at 30A cutting amperage, it still drew 30A from the 6-50R outlet. I guess it's just very power hungry.

[Poland308]

Not surprising. Maintaining a plasma arc is pretty intense. Sounds like the voltage drop isn’t that bad. If it drops more than 10% of name plate rates that’s when things start to get stressed.

[vaguy101]

Added a volt/ammeter to the Texas Power strip, and I also re-did my old generator extension like it as well.







aaannndd I just had a good look at those UGLY spot/tack welds on those hinges! Yuck! I'm ashamed! But then again, I was in a rush making this. I need to re-do them asap! [emoji38]

Hey oscar , I admire your ingenuity sir.


Might I ask just fir personal reference say I want to make a copy cat Texas power strip all for myself . Where are you getting that kind of power from ? Are you working directly into the panel . What and how are you getting your power to the Texas power strip .

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[vaguy101]

Added a volt/ammeter to the Texas Power strip, and I also re-did my old generator extension like it as well.







aaannndd I just had a good look at those UGLY spot/tack welds on those hinges! Yuck! I'm ashamed! But then again, I was in a rush making this. I need to re-do them asap! [emoji38]

Hey oscar , I admire your ingenuity sir.


Might I ask just fir personal reference say I want to make a copy cat Texas power strip all for myself . Where are you getting that kind of power from ? Are you working directly into the panel . What and how are you getting your power to the Texas power strip .

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[Oscar]

Nope, I'm not wiring it up straight into a panel. Not "up to code", but it is 3x "oversized" 4awg (23mm² vs 19mm²) wires off a 100A breaker for: Hot1/Hot2 + Neutral + 8awg ground. About 20 ft long run that ends up in twin paralleled 14-50R receptacles. Each one is rated for 50A, so paralleling cuts the power draw through each one in ½. To do so, I split each 4awg wire into two 6awg wires (via thick copper couplers crimped and soldered with 10% silver solder) in order to make it easier to wire into the receptacles' inputs on the back. The Texas Power Strip itself has the same/similar kind of configuration: 80ft "cord" is 3x "oversized" 4awg + 8awg ground, where at the end each the 4awg wires split (again via my custom copper/soldered couplers) into two 6awg wires that go into twin paralleled 14-50P plugs. Again each plug is rated 50A, so parallel'ing them cuts down the resistance in ½ compared to using a single plug. I dont think that I'll ever need that much power, it was more of a "I'm bored, so I think I'll do this...." kind of thing, lol.

That was the easy part. The tricky part is inside to do the power distribution using those panel type breakers. I was told there are rail type breakers like this. I bought one to replace the whimpy one on my generator, and while it's just "ok", it's just not "beefy" enough as those Eaton breakers. But they would be easier to implement because they have screw-type terminals for both in's & out's, where as for those Eaton breakers I had to take 1/8" thick copper sheet and and mill my own little adapters for the line-side, and that whole cover/support contraption to suspend them in place. If I had to do it all over again, I suppose I would try those plastic DIN Rail breakers and hope for the best. The one on the generator is holding up good so far.

[Simclardy]

Nope, I'm not wiring it up straight into a panel. Not "up to code", but it is 3x "oversized" 4awg (23mm² vs 19mm²) wires off a 100A breaker for: Hot1/Hot2 + Neutral + 8awg ground. About 20 ft long run that ends up in twin paralleled 14-50R receptacles. Each one is rated for 50A, so paralleling cuts the power draw through each one in ½. To do so, I split each 4awg wire into two 6awg wires (via thick copper couplers crimped and soldered with 10% silver solder) in order to make it easier to wire into the receptacles' inputs on the back. The Texas Power Strip itself has the same/similar kind of configuration: 80ft "cord" is 3x "oversized" 4awg + 8awg ground, where at the end each the 4awg wires split (again via my custom copper/soldered couplers) into two 6awg wires that go into twin paralleled 14-50P plugs. Again each plug is rated 50A, so parallel'ing them cuts down the resistance in ½ compared to using a single plug. I dont think that I'll ever need that much power, it was more of a "I'm bored, so I think I'll do this...." kind of thing, lol.

That was the easy part. The tricky part is inside to do the power distribution using those panel type breakers. I was told there are rail type breakers like this. I bought one to replace the whimpy one on my generator, and while it's just "ok", it's just not "beefy" enough as those Eaton breakers. But they would be easier to implement because they have screw-type terminals for both in's & out's, where as for those Eaton breakers I had to take 1/8" thick copper sheet and and mill my own little adapters for the line-side, and that whole cover/support contraption to suspend them in place. If I had to do it all over again, I suppose I would try those plastic DIN Rail breakers and hope for the best. The one on the generator is holding up good so far.

3x oversized is not accurate.
Nec 310.16 has #4 copper at 85amp 75°C.

if the outlet is only rated for 60°C you would go down to 70amps. (The breaker is usually rated for 75°C.)

Now if you are using a true flexible cord like SOW you go to article 400.5(A)(1)
If i use column b you are allowed 70amps.
Columb a is 60amps.

Flexible cords assume copper.
If you have aluminum that's even less according to article 310.16.

At the end of the day im not worried because i doubt you will be welding with two machines at the same time. You could put a 70amp breaker and never trip.

Ps. I just picked up my 2020 nfpa70 code book yesterday and they moved the ampacity table back to 310.16! And restored the chart for dwelling service and feeder instead of the silly 83% calculation.

It's about the only good thing they did.
Im doing a 100amp service swap today and now i need a meter/main. So i run an ser and split neutrals and grounds and extend my bonding back to the disconnect. But now if i have an old house with 3 wire stoves and dryers i have to replace that also?!@$#%

They can't leave well enough alone:(
Sorry had to vent.





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[Oscar]

The 3x was not referring to the oversizedness factor, but rather to the number of conductors for hot/hot/neutral. The oversized was simply referring to the area, 23 vs 19 mm² of standard THHN type wire. I guess I should have typed "x3" instead. My wires are rated to 105°C for up to 600V applications.

The Leviton 14-50R is rated up to 60°C, and with two of them in parallel, they should be able to disperse any and all heat rather quickly, IMO.

What I'm calling a cord is not a cord by electrical standards, hence the quotations. My cord refers to the cord that I built.

[Simclardy]

The 3x was not referring to the oversizedness factor, but rather to the number of conductors for hot/hot/neutral. The oversized was simply referring to the area, 23 vs 19 mm² of standard THHN type wire. I guess I should have typed "x3" instead. My wires are rated to 105°C for up to 600V applications.

The Leviton 14-50R is rated up to 60°C, and with two of them in parallel, they should be able to disperse any and all heat rather quickly, IMO.

What I'm calling a cord is not a cord by electrical standards, hence the quotations. My cord refers to the cord that I built.

Ok, i understand the 3x now.
Just keep in mind the temperature rating is based on the lowest rated part of the circuit. Even under the 90°c column your max ampacity is 95a. But this is the wrong chart for cords.
The big concern with cord is the insulation. Because the insulation is bigger it can't dissipate heat as fast. And that's what drives the ampacity down.

Again i doubt you will ever use a fraction of the energy needed to cause problems, and i know you are aware of the insulation and you strike me as the cautious type.
Cheers



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[Oscar]

Again i doubt you will ever use a fraction of the energy needed to cause problems, and i know you are aware of the insulation and you strike me as the cautious type.
Cheers
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Challenge accepted! Time to fire up the nuclear reactor! 1.21 gigawatts!

[BillE.Dee]

Nice set up Oscar,,,,BUT ,,,, why did my lights dim in Pennsylvania ??

[Simclardy]

Nice set up Oscar,,,,BUT ,,,, why did my lights dim in Pennsylvania ??

Lol

Is this you oscar?

https://youtu.be/_hvKx9_gQ9A

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[Oscar]

That's how it's done!