I'm having trouble with fillet welds on +/- 0.052" steel square tubing. The tubing is prep'ed clean and shinny. I'm using 3/32" lanthanated tungsten, 1/16" ER70S-2 filler rod. 60 amps start then foot pedal. Argon at +/- 15.
I get a good puddle started, but the rod seems slow to melt and the tubing cooks. Being new to TIG I think that my filler rod should be 0.045"???? Possible tungsten 1/16"???? If I up the amps the rod flows, but my travel speed is not yet fast enough to keep the tubing form cratering.
This was a lot easer when I was MIG'n, but it was a messy process. Any pointers???
I hate being a newbie and feeling stupid.
Tig welding tips, questions, equipment, applications, instructions, techniques, tig welding machines, troubleshooting tig welding process
- Burning Filler Rod
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BillE.Dee
- BillE.Dee
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No silly questions ... the silly one is the one that doesn't get asked. Try a thinner filler and maybe (since you're working on steel) try a more needle like point on the tungsten and pay attention to the stickout. That helped me. Also, try watching some of Jody's videos and watch how the arc comes off the tungsten.
I know for a fact that the folks in here WILL HELP.
I know for a fact that the folks in here WILL HELP.
1/16" is closer to 0.063" than 0.052". Yea it's possible with 1/16", but you do have to get on the heat to melt it, which means you need to be going at warp (travel) speed and your filler rod better be dabbing just as quick. The longer you take the worse it gets. If you're not comfortable with that yet, well you just need to get there. You need to keep a tight arc, but the 1/16" filler is probably holding you back, thus cooking the joint from too much arc length.
045 and a 1/16" would definitely make it easier though.
045 and a 1/16" would definitely make it easier though.
i think you answered your own question.Burning Filler Rod wrote:If I up the amps the rod flows, but my travel speed is not yet fast enough to keep the tubing form cratering.
i don't think its a rod issue but rather a travel speed issue.
tweak it until it breaks
- 3/32" lanthanated tungsten,
- 1/16" ER70S-2 filler rod.
This will service you just fine and is how I learned/was taught on 16ga.
- 60 amps start then foot pedal. Argon at +/- 15.
Set your machine to 45-60 amps. You will likely not need more than 45. Argon 15cfg is good to go, try bumping it up a bit more event if you feel your welds are gray. You regulator might not be perfect. I'd recommend a gas lens if you have one.
Don't start at 60 amps use the pedal. I take it you are not blasting at 60 on the start, and that is way to high, but thought I'd at least state that.
I can almost bet you do not have a tight enough arc. Fillets are the hardest weld to grasp when learning sheet metal tig. You really need to practice it (I did ) and you will get it down for sure. Keep the tungesten pointed at the root of the join but a little more at the piece of material that doesn't end. The piece tube that is cut off has no where for the heat to go but one direction while the other tube has 2 directions and will balance better. Get that tungsten tight in there, it will focus the puddle and and dip filler into the puddle.
good luck!
- 1/16" ER70S-2 filler rod.
This will service you just fine and is how I learned/was taught on 16ga.
- 60 amps start then foot pedal. Argon at +/- 15.
Set your machine to 45-60 amps. You will likely not need more than 45. Argon 15cfg is good to go, try bumping it up a bit more event if you feel your welds are gray. You regulator might not be perfect. I'd recommend a gas lens if you have one.
Don't start at 60 amps use the pedal. I take it you are not blasting at 60 on the start, and that is way to high, but thought I'd at least state that.
I can almost bet you do not have a tight enough arc. Fillets are the hardest weld to grasp when learning sheet metal tig. You really need to practice it (I did ) and you will get it down for sure. Keep the tungesten pointed at the root of the join but a little more at the piece of material that doesn't end. The piece tube that is cut off has no where for the heat to go but one direction while the other tube has 2 directions and will balance better. Get that tungsten tight in there, it will focus the puddle and and dip filler into the puddle.
good luck!
- Burning Filler Rod
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All GREAT advise..... I'll have lots to play with today.
Oscar- My metal supplier sells this tubing as 1/16", but when I use my vernier caliper it consistently measures 0.052 ~ 0.53. More like 17 gauge. Maybe like lumber... 2"x4" isn't a 2x4. 3/4" ply isn't .75". (part of the capitalistic scheme????)
Thanks all and today holds more 'drills'. Man, was I naive in thinking moving into GTAW was going to be a breeze....
Oscar- My metal supplier sells this tubing as 1/16", but when I use my vernier caliper it consistently measures 0.052 ~ 0.53. More like 17 gauge. Maybe like lumber... 2"x4" isn't a 2x4. 3/4" ply isn't .75". (part of the capitalistic scheme????)
Thanks all and today holds more 'drills'. Man, was I naive in thinking moving into GTAW was going to be a breeze....
Everyday I try to be the man my dog thinks I am.
- Burning Filler Rod
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OK, OK,
This morning I used all the good advise provided here and feel good about going forward with thin walled square tubing.
Using the rule of 1 amp for every .001" (up to 1/4"). My 1" square tubing measures 0.053" I can push 55 amps for the sides and 65 amps for the 'T' fillet. BUT using 1/16" rod is a challenge. My arc cone is so small that it is hard to feed the rod without issues. I'm not yet skilled enough to speed up my torch travel at higher amps.
So, I ordered some ER70S-2 0.045" rod. I really think it's the real deal for making nice welds on this thin walled tubing.
I did struggle to make some 'fair' runs this morning which gave me hopes for more improvement with the 0.045" rod soon.
Thank you all for the input..... it sure helps!
This morning I used all the good advise provided here and feel good about going forward with thin walled square tubing.
Using the rule of 1 amp for every .001" (up to 1/4"). My 1" square tubing measures 0.053" I can push 55 amps for the sides and 65 amps for the 'T' fillet. BUT using 1/16" rod is a challenge. My arc cone is so small that it is hard to feed the rod without issues. I'm not yet skilled enough to speed up my torch travel at higher amps.
So, I ordered some ER70S-2 0.045" rod. I really think it's the real deal for making nice welds on this thin walled tubing.
I did struggle to make some 'fair' runs this morning which gave me hopes for more improvement with the 0.045" rod soon.
Thank you all for the input..... it sure helps!
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Everyday I try to be the man my dog thinks I am.
BillE.Dee
- BillE.Dee
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hi burner,,,don't get excited about making holes while starting the challenge. We ALL did the same thing and we all still have our moments...I do. What I did to get used to the process was to pick up some material a little thicker than 1/16 and just run some beads without filler. Then moved to the 16th and ran some flat beads. Usually the cup size (is in 16ths inside measurements) dictates the stickout of the tungsten...the picture seems to be a bit much to me for flat beads. Keeping the tungsten close to the material will keep the bead narrow and focused.
I've had the folks in here help me get my poop in a group and hopefully can pass the info along.
I've had the folks in here help me get my poop in a group and hopefully can pass the info along.
The learning steps of progress in TIG......
Step 1. How to sharpen a Tungsten. (If you buy them pre sharpened, you can go straight to step 2)
Step 2. How to contaminate a Tungsten. This is a critical step that you must master before you can get good at TIG. Failure to complete step 2 means the arc is too long. Get closer to the puddle.
Step 3. How to remove the contamination from the Tungsten. This goes hand in hand with step 2. It is the combination of these two steps, that improves your eye-hand coordination the most. Keep repeating these two steps until you can maintain proper torch position without thinking.
Step 4. Eventually you will get enough practice at steps 2 and 3 to qualify as a Novice. Now you can start paying attention to penetration, and appearance. Don't let you mind wander, or you will be back at step 2. When you get enough practice time to have a ratty looking torch, you should start seeing some improvement in your welds.
There is no substitute for arc-sperience.
Step 1. How to sharpen a Tungsten. (If you buy them pre sharpened, you can go straight to step 2)
Step 2. How to contaminate a Tungsten. This is a critical step that you must master before you can get good at TIG. Failure to complete step 2 means the arc is too long. Get closer to the puddle.
Step 3. How to remove the contamination from the Tungsten. This goes hand in hand with step 2. It is the combination of these two steps, that improves your eye-hand coordination the most. Keep repeating these two steps until you can maintain proper torch position without thinking.
Step 4. Eventually you will get enough practice at steps 2 and 3 to qualify as a Novice. Now you can start paying attention to penetration, and appearance. Don't let you mind wander, or you will be back at step 2. When you get enough practice time to have a ratty looking torch, you should start seeing some improvement in your welds.
There is no substitute for arc-sperience.
No sense dying with unused welding rod, so light 'em up!
- Burning Filler Rod
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VA-Sawyer,,, I like your suggested steps. Believe me I've followed them. I could show you many 3"x6"x .125" coupons with 12 flat beads on both sides and neurons 4"x2" square tube with flat beads on both sides. Since January I'm on my second 125 bottle of argon. Whew.... I can see that it's getting better when I examine all my 'flat-beads'.
Thanks for the input and support,,, I'll keep a climbing.
Billy.Dee,,,, my tungsten stick out in the photo had not properly been adjusted. You see, I had just returned for the 4,000th trip from the grinder that day. The trips are getting less day by day. In January the trips were over the 10k amount. (grin)
Also the cup I'm using is a #7 and I set the stick out to +/- 7/16". I drilled depth holes in a piece of stock for #6, #7, #8 cups.
Thanks for noticing....
Thanks for the input and support,,, I'll keep a climbing.
Billy.Dee,,,, my tungsten stick out in the photo had not properly been adjusted. You see, I had just returned for the 4,000th trip from the grinder that day. The trips are getting less day by day. In January the trips were over the 10k amount. (grin)
Also the cup I'm using is a #7 and I set the stick out to +/- 7/16". I drilled depth holes in a piece of stock for #6, #7, #8 cups.
Thanks for noticing....
Everyday I try to be the man my dog thinks I am.
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