Tig welding tips, questions, equipment, applications, instructions, techniques, tig welding machines, troubleshooting tig welding process
cmstratton
- cmstratton
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Joined:Wed Mar 25, 2020 6:13 pm
[youtube]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=R5c4n-g ... e=youtu.be[/youtube]I am brand new to TIG welding. I have a Lincoln 200 Square Wave Welder. My objective, is to be able to weld a 1.125" W x .500" T 304 SS "puck" to a 3/16" Diameter 304 SS Rod. Please view YouTube video for description/explanation. I have at my disposal 2% Lanthanated, 2% Ceriated, and Tri-Mix Electrodes in .040", 1/16", and 3/32" Diameter. I will not be adding any filler material, but melting existing material on the "puck" into the rod. As you can see from the video, I will be using a motorized welding positioner to rotate the work. My question(s) are, what settings do I use. Electrode type and size selection, gas flow rate, current, etc. ny suggestions will be appreciated. Thank you.
Either the 1/16" or 3/32" electrode will work. I've used all three of those alloys, and I can't tell the difference on DCEN. Gas flow rate for a gas lens would be would be roughly 2x the "size" of the cup, in CFH. If you are using a #7, about 14 CFH so long as the cup-to-work distance isn't too great.
got all that setup and can't work out amperage ??
amps will always vary a bit with different machines so any suggestions are a ball park guide. so run a few test runs first.
my miller chart suggests 90-100 amps.
amps will always vary a bit with different machines so any suggestions are a ball park guide. so run a few test runs first.
my miller chart suggests 90-100 amps.
tweak it until it breaks
- LtBadd
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Joined:Sun Apr 12, 2015 4:00 pm
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Craig, how many do you have to do?
Given the diameter of the rod I'd set the amps around 55 and use the foot pedal to adjust as you go. By the time you get half way around the heat buildup will require you to back off some, you really need to watch the puddle to make the determination, and it's all going to happen pretty fast.
All 3 tungsten electrode alloys will work, for stainless all I use is 3/32" dia. 2% lanthanated. At this amperage 1/16" would work also.
Given the diameter of the rod I'd set the amps around 55 and use the foot pedal to adjust as you go. By the time you get half way around the heat buildup will require you to back off some, you really need to watch the puddle to make the determination, and it's all going to happen pretty fast.
All 3 tungsten electrode alloys will work, for stainless all I use is 3/32" dia. 2% lanthanated. At this amperage 1/16" would work also.
Richard
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TraditionalToolworks
- TraditionalToolworks
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Joined:Mon Dec 18, 2017 7:49 am
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Location:San Jose / Kelseyville
Here on Welding web you only put the hash tag for youtube after the v= to display the video here.cmstratton wrote:[youtube]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=R5c4n-g ... e=youtu.be[/youtube]
This should show the video:
R5c4n-gxlvw
Just wanted to pass that along to you, the others have your question taken care of.
Collector of old Iron!
Alan
Alan
cmstratton
- cmstratton
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Joined:Wed Mar 25, 2020 6:13 pm
Thank you to everyone who has responded to this post, I appreciate it very much. And to those who commented on my "setup", I operate under the "Measure it with a micrometer, mark it with a piece chalk, and cut it with an ax." It looks like 40-50 A is doing the trick. Getting good results right off the bat. I have 24 practice pieces, which can be welded from both sides, and after 5 attempts, we're pretty close. Have to watch the heat/puddle from under-cutting the rod. Also, there's a bit of a small "tit" (I don't know what to call it...) that sometime times is in the weld. Can easily be smoothed over. Thanks again everyone for your comments. I'll post some photos of a finished product soon!
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