This is my first post. I recently purchased a Weldpro TIG 200 AG and now starting the learning process. I mostly welded with my Lincoln 3200HD MIG in the past. I’m a hobbyist so my experience is what I learned on my own. That said, I ran into my first snag with the TIG. A bolt book off of a faberware aluminum clad, stainless steel frying pan. I’m attempting to weld a stainless steel bolt back on but can’t seem to get the weld to sick. I’m using a 308L 3/32 filler with a green tungsten electrode.
I don’t know much about aluminum clad/stainless steel products but the stainless steel bold heats up faster than the pan so the filler sticks to the bolt but not the pan. The bold is standard stainless purchased from the hardware store. I tried 50 - 80 amps (DC) with no success. Obviously, I’m doing something wrong and would very much appreciate some suggestions. I’m including a picture(s)
Thanks
Roger
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You won't get a stainless bolt to weld to aluminum surfaces. Probably your only option is to grind all the way into the stainless so you have stainless-stainless contact. If you eliminate the bolt, arc onto the pan and can't get a puddle with 80 amps, then you are still encountering aluminum.
Aluminum has an oxide layer that melts above 2700*. Stainless bolts probably start melting at 1200*. Guess how many amps you need to crack that oxide layer
You might consider instead of grinding the layer to drill/divot through it just deep enough to seat the bolt. Then weld the bolt in. Any way you slice it, it's a dodgy repair. That pan is likely 316 stainless too. You really should be using the same grade bolt and wire and passivating the weld afterwards to prevent corrosion and unsanitary results.
You might take a better look at the piece that came off, it might be an aluminum part,not stainless. CJ is probably right on the grade of stainless being 316, not that it would matter if that is indeed an aluminum clad pan. Nowadays the aluminum is encased between layers of stainless, and the stainless is almost always a PH variant, typically 18-8. But if that's indeed aluminum on the outside, you need an aluminum bolt/boss to weld on, and an AC welder. I would say the likelihood the aluminum is a weldable grade is pretty good.
I posted this a while back and was required to wait for a moderator approval because it was my first post. Since then, after doing some additional research, I found that you guys are exactly right. Since aluminum conducts heat well and this is a frying pan, manufactures’ used aluminum as an outer coating and the stainless underneath serves as stability. As such, I’m going to purchase an aluminum bolt an attempt to weld it to the aluminum clad. That said, I ordered some brazing rod (Holbert 770206 aluminum). I believe, and please correct me if I’m out in left field, this may be an easier approach then attempting to use the TIG. As stated, I’m completely new to TIG welding and sure don’t want to ruin the frying pan while learning the process. In my way of thinking, I should probably practice a bit on some scrap to get the hang of it.
Fromt he factory, All Clad usually attaches their handles with stainless rivet bolts that are swaged. The handle is often stainless, stainless rivets, to an aluminum pan. That separation is what allows the handle to be touched without it conducting heat from the pan surface (the aluminum pulls the heat away from the handle).
So, you could drill through the pan, use a short button head or carriage bolt (stainless) attached to the handle, then tack the bolt to the handle (given the handle is indeed stainless too?). I know this sounds extreme, but it is really quite simple.
My concern with an aluminum bolt would be strength. The cladding surface is very thin and would not have the strength to hold the handle levering the weight of the pan and food. Likely to shear off with scalding hot food hitting your feet (not good) and the wife will be screaming (in pain, and in anger at you).
cj737 wrote:Fromt he factory, All Clad usually attaches their handles with stainless rivet bolts that are swaged. The handle is often stainless, stainless rivets, to an aluminum pan. That separation is what allows the handle to be touched without it conducting heat from the pan surface (the aluminum pulls the heat away from the handle).
So, you could drill through the pan, use a short button head or carriage bolt (stainless) attached to the handle, then tack the bolt to the handle (given the handle is indeed stainless too?). I know this sounds extreme, but it is really quite simple.
My concern with an aluminum bolt would be strength. The cladding surface is very thin and would not have the strength to hold the handle levering the weight of the pan and food. Likely to shear off with scalding hot food hitting your feet (not good) and the wife will be screaming (in pain, and in anger at you).
Proceed with care-
I don't disagree with your concern even a little bit, but how do you suppose they attached the foot/handle before if it is indeed connected to the aluminum. Or, how was it attached if it wasn't attached to the aluminum?
I also agree with the stainless carriage bolt idea vs trying to weld. I can't help but think that they either welded before cladding, or they used a very special process not easily replicated with typical welding equipment. More like a specialty spot weld or similar.
I don't disagree with your concern even a little bit, but how do you suppose they attached the foot/handle before if it is indeed connected to the aluminum. Or, how was it attached if it wasn't attached to the aluminum?
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Typically Farberware used an aluminum end cap on their handles, which in turn was likely glued or welded within the end cap, then the handle was glued to the end cap. Which is why it probably broke from the pan. Relying on aluminum tack welds.
The repair involves one of the four feet on the bottom of the pan, not the handle. Thanks GmanBart on the tip concerning tungsten. Interesting, there isn’t many aluminum bolts readily available. I suppose I’ll check on-line.
You can get them from McMaster-Carr or you might try aluminum rivets also. They're easy enough to install. I don't mean pop if it's either, you can buy real actual rivets for cheap. You could go to MSC or Grainger or wherever as well, pretty much all the same thing. I happen to prefer McMaster-Carr.
