cheers Brian,
i really cant afford to go buying any more things. the car is a pug 206, the sil section is the bit going back in, normally dead easy with gas no matter the material, if it falls apart with steel rod then braise it.
i also couldnt overlap or add any backing pieces the steel i have is way too thick. see i don't get this problem with gas, i can work the torch perfectly with a #1 tip and fill in the blanks. something that apparently isn't possible with tig and mig.
i wont sit here and tell you guys what is and isn't possible. you guys work with tig all day long and can do this in your sleep. but its simply something i can not grasp and use to my advantage because i don't have the time/money to keep practicing, gas is expensive and so is the electricity and everything else that goes with arc welding systems.
i'm afraid i will have to revert to what i know best and have no problems with.
so there is a perfectly good little used tig for sale. if i can get £500 for it with everything i have for it. i will be happy (except the gas).
noddybrian
- noddybrian
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Weldmonger
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Posts:
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Joined:Thu Jan 24, 2013 12:13 pm
Hi - some thoughts on the Mig issue - even if it's not strictly in the right place.
You are using regular wire with gas ? not flux cored ? if so is it the smallest you can run ( should be .6mm ) - keeping wire speed borderline slow may help especially in combination with vertical down hand where possible - what gas are you using - if it's proper Argoshield light / 5 this makes a nice fluid puddle on low amps - try switching to cheap CO2 ( pub gas bottle ) with quite a high flow - this gas is not normally recommended as without a preheated regulator it chills the heck out of the weld , but in this case it would be a big advantage.
Hope that helps - & to other users - please don't hate on me over this advise - it's just trying to get out of a situation on what is clearly a rotten piece of c-ap car - I know it's not normal on anything that matters - but sometimes --it happens !
You are using regular wire with gas ? not flux cored ? if so is it the smallest you can run ( should be .6mm ) - keeping wire speed borderline slow may help especially in combination with vertical down hand where possible - what gas are you using - if it's proper Argoshield light / 5 this makes a nice fluid puddle on low amps - try switching to cheap CO2 ( pub gas bottle ) with quite a high flow - this gas is not normally recommended as without a preheated regulator it chills the heck out of the weld , but in this case it would be a big advantage.
Hope that helps - & to other users - please don't hate on me over this advise - it's just trying to get out of a situation on what is clearly a rotten piece of c-ap car - I know it's not normal on anything that matters - but sometimes --it happens !
yes argo light its an old Snap-on mig the settings are pretty basic, switched 1-10 i think (never had it past 2) but no inbetween settings so no fine adjustment. 0.6 wire not fluxed. set on spot mode at the lowest setting .5 sec simply blew a hole clean through the panel.
same welder is perfectly fine on other cars especially mitsubishi's that use 1.2mm steel. i have welded many cars up many different kinds of body skins thick and thin never had a problem with gas except buckling once in a while due to the thin material and heat transfer.
it just seems i have absolutely no luck with the tig what so ever. the mig isn't the migs fault it just isn't finely adjustable for paper thin steel.
same welder is perfectly fine on other cars especially mitsubishi's that use 1.2mm steel. i have welded many cars up many different kinds of body skins thick and thin never had a problem with gas except buckling once in a while due to the thin material and heat transfer.
it just seems i have absolutely no luck with the tig what so ever. the mig isn't the migs fault it just isn't finely adjustable for paper thin steel.
- Otto Nobedder
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Weldmonger
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Joined:Thu Jan 06, 2011 11:40 pm
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Location:Near New Orleans
Snap-On hand tools are great. Snap-On pneumatic tools are really good.
Snap-On MIG is a piece of junk marketed as a "professional tool", and they should be deeply ashamed to have ever "badged" it. Harbor Freight has better MIG machines than the Snap-On MIG I used in my buddy's shop.
TIG is quite possible for your task, but I have to agree... For a money job, GO WITH WHAT YOU KNOW! Learn TIG on scrap, not money metal.
Steve S
Snap-On MIG is a piece of junk marketed as a "professional tool", and they should be deeply ashamed to have ever "badged" it. Harbor Freight has better MIG machines than the Snap-On MIG I used in my buddy's shop.
TIG is quite possible for your task, but I have to agree... For a money job, GO WITH WHAT YOU KNOW! Learn TIG on scrap, not money metal.
Steve S