Could I get some insight as to what is going on with my TIG setup or what is wrong with my technique, specifically with Aluminum? Being relatively new to TIG (I have done flux-core MIG for years), I'm not sure where to start with what's going on.
From the image, is this likely a gas issue or is it my technique?
Settings are:
6061 1/8" Aluminum coupon
2% Blue Tungsten
100% argon (16-18CFH)
120Amps with pedal
120Hz
35-40% cleaning
5 sec postflow
HF start
AC
Torch plugged into Negative terminal
I can hear the gas solenoid kick on/off and feel gas coming through the lens.
Using 3m red abrasive pad to rough up top layer and then cleaned with Acetone (also tried without red abrasive pad, but did clean with acetone and same results)
Tried different torch angles from straight up and down to 45* angle, all same results
The arc is very erratic and a puddle never really develops (even if I hold position to try and clean the top scale off first). In the picture you can see the yellow/brown dust around the welds (I brushed and cleaned the surface with acetone in-between doing the previous three, that's why those three areas on top don't have the discoloration around them). Should I be chasing a gas leak, or is it the HF start not turning off, or what would you recommend I start with to try and get working?
Tig welding tips, questions, equipment, applications, instructions, techniques, tig welding machines, troubleshooting tig welding process
The only things that would explain those results are: not truly 100% argon (using 75/25 inadvertently) or your machine is not switching to AC. You don’t indicate what machine, so it’s hard to help diagnose the settings.
But my money is on one of those factors, or... you have the torch assembled completely wrong and you aren’t getting any shielding gas at the money end. If you lick your finger, hold torch away from work area and start the flow of gas, your should ice cold air on your wet finger. Do you? If not, gas is not flowing correctly.
But my money is on one of those factors, or... you have the torch assembled completely wrong and you aren’t getting any shielding gas at the money end. If you lick your finger, hold torch away from work area and start the flow of gas, your should ice cold air on your wet finger. Do you? If not, gas is not flowing correctly.
This is being done with an Everlast PowerTig 185dv (the old version that doesn't have pulse). There is a definite puff of gas/air that comes out of the torch when the pedal is first depressed, and the ball in the flow meter sustains at the 15CFH mark if I keep the pedal depressed. I had also looked to see if the screen on the gas inlet side of the machine was clogged, but that seems to be clear. I also tried swapping out the regulator for a different one that I had, but that had the same results.
I may go buy a flow meter for the end of the torch to see if the cylinder regulator is reading incorrectly, but after that I'm probably going to swap out the tank of Argon because I can't pin down what the problem is.
I will post pictures of the tank and setup. I will admit that I have been second guessing on whether or not I got C25 back in 2014 when I bought the cylinder, but the bottle and title both say Argon, so I really have no clue at this point if it's not obvious enough already ha.
I may go buy a flow meter for the end of the torch to see if the cylinder regulator is reading incorrectly, but after that I'm probably going to swap out the tank of Argon because I can't pin down what the problem is.
I will post pictures of the tank and setup. I will admit that I have been second guessing on whether or not I got C25 back in 2014 when I bought the cylinder, but the bottle and title both say Argon, so I really have no clue at this point if it's not obvious enough already ha.
Last edited by Keelis on Mon Mar 01, 2021 5:55 pm, edited 1 time in total.
It's noticeably different from the initial push of the pedal vs holding it down, so I wasn't sure if that's just their version of preflow to flood the area with gas (this machine doesn't have any preflow settings/option). But that's why I checked the filter screen thinking maybe the gas was strong initially because there was an obstruction in the line somewhere and that puff was the line depressurizing and then the gas was just trickling through. Should the flow of gas feel the exact same from start to finish?cj737 wrote:A puff of gas at the start, or sustained while the pedal is held down?
I should also mention I have also swapped out the pedal for the finger switch that came on the torch, same results.
Pirate323i
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Should there bit be another white seal between the torch body and the back cap?
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Sent from my SM-G930F using Tapatalk
BillE.Dee
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back the balance off to 30 and the hz back to 100. Keep a tight arc with the torch about 10 degrees tilt and push the puddle. What size cup are you using? Go back to the pedal. When you first light up, get right at it and when you see the shiny bubble start easing off the pedal. Just try running beads without filler to get the feel of the machine.
scrapfarm89
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If your not getting a puddle to form and the arc is jumping you might check all your ground connections. Are you grounding to the actual plate or using a table? Check your ground clamp itself wire and machine ports.
Is your tungsten melting or any defects on it?
Make sure youve got good gas flow. That'll cause some of the soot contamination but doesnt explain why your not getting a puddle. Do you have any cross breezes effecting your shielding gas?
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Is your tungsten melting or any defects on it?
Make sure youve got good gas flow. That'll cause some of the soot contamination but doesnt explain why your not getting a puddle. Do you have any cross breezes effecting your shielding gas?
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I vote for a lack of gas coverage, for whatever reason. Oh and stop using the scotchbrite/3M abrasive. You need to use a dedicate stainless steel brush. Manual brush, no power tools. They just drive contaminants deeper into the metal.
Is your tungsten getting destroyed in the process? That's most likely what is causing the yellow/brown dust. When I first started TIG welding I used a scratch start rig with a gas valve. If I forgot to open the valve before striking the arc, I would get this kind of result all the time. It used to chew up the tungstens pretty good as well.
Is your tungsten getting destroyed in the process? That's most likely what is causing the yellow/brown dust. When I first started TIG welding I used a scratch start rig with a gas valve. If I forgot to open the valve before striking the arc, I would get this kind of result all the time. It used to chew up the tungstens pretty good as well.
Multimatic 255
it doesn't help your amps are way low.Keelis wrote:Could I get some insight as to what is going on with my TIG setup or what is wrong with my technique, specifically with Aluminum? Being relatively new to TIG (I have done flux-core MIG for years), I'm not sure where to start with what's going on.
From the image, is this likely a gas issue or is it my technique?
Settings are:
6061 1/8" Aluminum coupon
2% Blue Tungsten
100% argon (16-18CFH)
120Amps with pedal
120Hz
35-40% cleaning
5 sec postflow
HF start
AC
Torch plugged into Negative terminal
as you have a pedal, set it 180 amps and stand on it when you start.
the pic looks like you have mig gas.
tweak it until it breaks
It sure does look like a gas coverage problem, but just to fill in the details a bit, what diameter tungsten are you using?
If the amperage is on the low end for a given tungsten diameter you can wind up with the arc dancing all over the place, and you're already on the low end for 1/8" aluminum.
What's on the orange sticker on the bottle?
If the amperage is on the low end for a given tungsten diameter you can wind up with the arc dancing all over the place, and you're already on the low end for 1/8" aluminum.
What's on the orange sticker on the bottle?
Last edited by G-ManBart on Tue Mar 02, 2021 2:35 am, edited 1 time in total.
Miller Syncrowave 250DX TIGRunner
Miller Millermatic 350P
Miller Regency 200 W/22A and Spoolmatic 3
Hobart Champion Elite
Everlast PowerTIG 210EXT
Miller Millermatic 350P
Miller Regency 200 W/22A and Spoolmatic 3
Hobart Champion Elite
Everlast PowerTIG 210EXT
Not with the inexpensive flow meters that ship with most imported welders these days. They're almost all set for 50PSI and give a pretty good blast when you first hit the pedal. I know the flow meter with my Everlast was a 50PSI unit...swapped that out for a Harris 355 which is a 20PSI unit and it makes all the difference in the world.cj737 wrote:Flow should be constant and consistent. With that smaller cup, you could reduce your CFH to 8-10cfh max.
Miller Syncrowave 250DX TIGRunner
Miller Millermatic 350P
Miller Regency 200 W/22A and Spoolmatic 3
Hobart Champion Elite
Everlast PowerTIG 210EXT
Miller Millermatic 350P
Miller Regency 200 W/22A and Spoolmatic 3
Hobart Champion Elite
Everlast PowerTIG 210EXT
This is being done in a garage with no fans on, so no side breezes.
The tungsten is a 3/32" with matching collet.
Here is a picture of .125" mild steel, only cleaned with acetone using the same torch/electrode/etc as the aluminum above. I did not use any filler rod for this, just struck the arc and moved the puddle a bit. The bottom line was low amps, and the top I ran hotter to see if that would show anything. Running this in DC the arc is stable, quiet, and what I expected with TIG. It does have the soot on the outside though, so not sure if that helps diagnose if it's a gas problem. Same machine, main settings are:
135Amps on pedal
DCEN
~6-8LPM
HF start
Here is the orange sticker on the bottle:
The tungsten is a 3/32" with matching collet.
Here is a picture of .125" mild steel, only cleaned with acetone using the same torch/electrode/etc as the aluminum above. I did not use any filler rod for this, just struck the arc and moved the puddle a bit. The bottom line was low amps, and the top I ran hotter to see if that would show anything. Running this in DC the arc is stable, quiet, and what I expected with TIG. It does have the soot on the outside though, so not sure if that helps diagnose if it's a gas problem. Same machine, main settings are:
135Amps on pedal
DCEN
~6-8LPM
HF start
- a.jpg (62.47 KiB) Viewed 2338 times
- b.jpg (59.75 KiB) Viewed 2338 times
Definitely active gas contamination, so you either have C25 (or some other non pure argon gas), or have air contaminating your pure argon.
But then again, you could have too long of a tungsten stick out, too long of an arc length, and too much torch angle that could also cause that kind of contamination. We can't see any of those things while you are making those practice beads, so it's still up in the air and kind of a guessing game from our end. In TIG, EVERYTHING matters. I am leaning towards some kind of gas contamination though and not so much technique.
But then again, you could have too long of a tungsten stick out, too long of an arc length, and too much torch angle that could also cause that kind of contamination. We can't see any of those things while you are making those practice beads, so it's still up in the air and kind of a guessing game from our end. In TIG, EVERYTHING matters. I am leaning towards some kind of gas contamination though and not so much technique.
It doesn't look like you removed the mill scale from the mild steel....just wiping with acetone won't work. You need to be down to white, shiny metal, then wipe with acetone or you're going to get the brown soot.Keelis wrote:This is being done in a garage with no fans on, so no side breezes.
The tungsten is a 3/32" with matching collet.
Here is a picture of .125" mild steel, only cleaned with acetone using the same torch/electrode/etc as the aluminum above. I did not use any filler rod for this, just struck the arc and moved the puddle a bit. The bottom line was low amps, and the top I ran hotter to see if that would show anything. Running this in DC the arc is stable, quiet, and what I expected with TIG. It does have the soot on the outside though, so not sure if that helps diagnose if it's a gas problem. Same machine, main settings are:
135Amps on pedal
DCEN
~6-8LPM
HF starta.jpg
I just re-read your first post and you said "HF Start"....is it HF start only, or continuous? You want HF set to continuous for aluminum.
Miller Syncrowave 250DX TIGRunner
Miller Millermatic 350P
Miller Regency 200 W/22A and Spoolmatic 3
Hobart Champion Elite
Everlast PowerTIG 210EXT
Miller Millermatic 350P
Miller Regency 200 W/22A and Spoolmatic 3
Hobart Champion Elite
Everlast PowerTIG 210EXT
Swapped out my cylinder today for new Argon, the burnt pepperoni looking mark on the right was the first arc (likely contaminated gas still in the lines), the lines on the left are with the new gas.
- New Argon
- 3.jpg (39.47 KiB) Viewed 2241 times
It still looks to me like too much heat being put into the part, but you're getting closer. Obviously you had gas problems. Consider moving faster or adding a lot more filler metal in order to cool the puddle some. Your puddle is staying way too hot.
your jumping the gun here, let him do some welds first. then you can tell him hes doing it wrongBugHunter wrote:It still looks to me like too much heat being put into the part, but you're getting closer. Obviously you had gas problems. Consider moving faster or adding a lot more filler metal in order to cool the puddle some. Your puddle is staying way too hot.
tweak it until it breaks
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