I'm building an aluminum gate out of 2"x2"x.125" 6061-T6 square tubing and I'll be welding a D&D hinge to the one of the tubes to hold the gate. The hinge block is a pretty large chunk of aluminum (1.5" wide, 1.75" tall and about 2" deep). I've attached a photo of the hinge below. The gate will be single hung, about 5' tall and about 15 feet wide. All out of 2x2x.125 6061-T6 aluminum tubing.
I'm new to welding aluminum and will be welding with a Dynasty 280, 1/8" 2% Lanth Electrode and CK Flex Lock Torch. I'll use 3/32 4043 TIG wire.
My questions to the group are:
Is it possible to get a good weld between the hinge and the tube with 1/8" wall thickness on the tubing?
Will the Square tubing warp too much where I weld the hinges on at 1/8" wall thickness?
Should I bevel the hinge block before welding it to the tubing?
How much amperage do you think it will require to make the weld on the hinge block? It's a pretty good heat sink.
Any other tips on how to make this weld successfully? I have to watch heat input to the hinge block so as not to damage the bearings
Any help / input / advice would be greatly appreciated!
This is going to present all types of problems for you. Your machine isn’t quite up to the task for the blocks. Not impossible but certainly improbable for a new welder. You will need a serious amount of preheat to get going and a lot of heat directed to the block. My guess is you’ll either have a very cold weld to the block or a very large hole in the tubing. This could present challenges for a more capable machine and a decent welder. I’d perhaps look into drilling and tapping to mount the blocks. Weld away on the rest of the tubing. The only saving Grace here is the block is thick but not huge if you really want to go for it.
I’m with Dimestack on this. I would tap the blocks, and screw a piece of 2.25 tubing with .125 wall to the hinge. Drill two thru holes completely thru the tube, tap and screw to hinge. Then slide this “sleeve” over your 2x2 tubing before welding up.
When you’re done welding up the gate, weld the sleeve top and bottom to the gate tube, and rosette the drilled holes. Done. Simple, and solid.
The Dynasty 280 is a helluva machine, but that block would need over 350 amps and to weld it to .125 tubing is darn tricky. Not for the faint of heart and nearly impossible for the experienced.
Gunna 3rd that welding that would be quite some fun with what you've got available I. The 280.
Almost looks like that block is meant to have a square tube slipped over it and bolted solid.
Especially if the bearing is non removable then I don't think it was intended to be welded as the bearing will see some pretty high temps with how many amps that big slug of aluminum will want.
But if your stuck on welding it all I can suggest is to get the bearing out if possible and preheat the block as much as you can in a oven or BBQ before you go for the weld. A OXY torch will work too but a oven or BBQ would be a even hear up.
Also I just thought of something 6061 just did a video not too long ago of thick to thin welding. Perhaps you can pickup a trick or two from watching. Pretty sure he did .065" to 1/4"+ ally. I remember he did three different joints but can't recall specifics
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I say no problem at all with the Dynasty. Crank-er up and go for it. That part isn't very big, it'll heat up in no time.
Keep the frequency at 60hz (more power). Leave the balance at "Pro-Set" which is 75%. If you lower that to say 65, you're losing power. Use your head, you'll have no trouble at all. It goes without saying point at the thick block and not the 1/8" wall tubing.
FYI, a part that size will likely be annealed some when you finish. It'll still be 6061, but no longer T6.
I think what I’ll do is get some solid aluminum bar stock and cut some pieces to simulate the hinge block mass and size and try welding them on the 1/8” 2x2 tube for practice.
If I can’t work it out I’ll look at a bolted solution.
I did see a video yesterday of a guy welding 0.090 to 3/8” and he definitely cheated to the 3/8” side but it was a really nice weld and no major penetration through the back side of the 0.090. I have a subscription to 6061 so I’ll check out his videos as well.
I’ll check with the hinge company about removing the bearings for the welds if I go that way. They have some welding guidance (it’s not much) for the hinges so their intent on the design is welding them on.
One other question, assuming I could weld the hinge block on with my 280, is should I bevel it or weld as is.
Thanks again! Really appreciate the time and input! I’ll advise how it goes
crazy question for the welding gods here,
what would happen if you cut a saw cut or channel around the edge of the block for eg 1/8' in.
so basically its a block with a 1/8" lip around it, so its more like welding 1/8" wall to 1/8' wall.
tweake wrote: ↑Fri Jul 30, 2021 9:29 pm
crazy question for the welding gods here,
what would happen if you cut a saw cut or channel around the edge of the block for eg 1/8' in.
so basically its a block with a 1/8" lip around it, so its more like welding 1/8" wall to 1/8' wall.
possibility or crazy drunken idea ??
In my humble view, I think the problem is the thermal mass and conductivity of the aluminium block rather than the dimension of the edge.
To weld it, the bearing needs to be disassembled and the block preheated. Or use bolts.
tweake wrote: ↑Sat Jul 31, 2021 4:29 am
if you slice the block and make a thin edge that would reduce the mass of where the weld is. so its effectively welding 1/8 to 1/8.
I think in the process you would compromise the structural integrity of the mount and its ability to hold the gate.
tweake wrote: ↑Sat Jul 31, 2021 4:29 am
if you slice the block and make a thin edge that would reduce the mass of where the weld is. so its effectively welding 1/8 to 1/8.
I think in the process you would compromise the structural integrity of the mount and its ability to hold the gate.
Jack
weakest link is still the post rather than the block.
the hinge block is absolute over kill. the thickness is all about looks than required strength.
tweake wrote: ↑Sat Jul 31, 2021 4:29 am
if you slice the block and make a thin edge that would reduce the mass of where the weld is. so its effectively welding 1/8 to 1/8.
I think in the process you would compromise the structural integrity of the mount and its ability to hold the gate.
Jack
weakest link is still the post rather than the block.
the hinge block is absolute over kill. the thickness is all about looks than required strength.
Yes, quite possibly, and I shudder when I think of the child/youth/adult riding the gate 15' from the hinge.
Howdy DZ. Don't want to sound like dillweed, but I did a look up on that hinge. It's got procedure and cautions. Look up weldable aluminum hinges, it should be in there. All the best on your project.
No worries BillE.DEE…I had the hinge welding instructions from the outset. They pretty much say don’t overheat the bearings and alternate welds with cooling in between.
I’m attaching photo of my first test run. I cut a chunk of aluminum same dimensions and mass as the hinge block and welded it on a 1/8” repad I put on the square tubing. I’m using my Dynasty 280 and a 50/50 Argon / Helium mix @ 60Hz and 75% balance. I’m new to welding and really new to aluminum so I need to do a couple more practice runs working on heat input (pedal control) and travel speed. On the other 3 sides of the block, not shown, I welded it too hot. I definitely have enough uumph in the 280 to make a good weld if I do my part!
46D60B4D-6374-4C0A-B77F-B2A9104686C0.jpeg (1.99 MiB) Viewed 4114 times
The welds look pretty good, only thing I see is the divots at the ends. That’s gonna be a high stress application being a hinge, so a likely weak spot for a crack to start.
Poland308 wrote: ↑Thu Aug 26, 2021 9:28 pm
The welds look pretty good, only thing I see is the divots at the ends. That’s gonna be a high stress application being a hinge, so a likely weak spot for a crack to start.
Thank you for the input! I’ll work on eliminating the divots at the ends of my welds.
