Hey all, looking for some guidance on a job coming down the line. My understanding is that the material will be 1095 spring steel that needs to be heat treated after welding. Does anyone have experience in this area? I believe I’m looking at preheat and post heat to start. How about a wire suggestion or and advice on procedures. We don’t heat treat in our shop. That will be sent out
1095 steel is a high carbon, simple steel. Chemically, the steel contains just carbon, .90 to 1.04 percent, manganese, .30 to .50 percent, phosphorus, .020 percent maximum, sulfur, .025 max, and silicon, .15 to .30 percent
A pre heat of 800 Fahrenheit plus or minus 50 degrees for the Post heat of 900 Degrees this should be held 1 hour per inch thickness. Depending on type of welding you're going to be doing if you want your weld to show or not meaning difference in coloration to the base metal or if you want to weld heat treatable. If you were looking for a heat treatable Rod a good Source would be Eureka Tool & Die welding
A rod that would give you a superior weld is the eutectic 680 and that can be purchase from Praxair. It has a hundred and twenty thousand PSI tensile strength and is used on all tools Steel to join them together used extensively for a butter well under heat treatable passes over it.
Remember if you're welding heat-treated steel you want to look at your heat treating process and get a post heat and preheat that is below the draw temperatures of that steel.
The temperatures I gave you for annealed steel would be for a larger sections of Steel if you're welding thinner sections you could get by with preheats of 50% of that. Remember when welding you want to maintain your welding temperature about your preheat temperature if temperatures drop below that you need to put back in the oven to bring up the temperature or let set in the oven to stabilize the temperature. Usually this is not a problem but on some Steals and Tool Steels it can be very critical
Remember if you're welding heat-treated steel you want to look at your heat treating process and get a post heat and preheat that is below the draw temperatures of that steel.
The temperatures I gave you for annealed steel would be for a larger sections of Steel if you're welding thinner sections you could get by with preheats of 50% of that. Remember when welding you want to maintain your welding temperature about your preheat temperature if temperatures drop below that you need to put back in the oven to bring up the temperature or let set in the oven to stabilize the temperature. Usually this is not a problem but on some Steals and Tool Steels it can be very critical
A rod that would give you a superior weld is the eutectic 680 and that can be purchase from Praxair. It has a hundred and twenty thousand PSI tensile strength and is used on all tools Steel to join them together used extensively for a butter well under heat treatable passes over it.
Remember if you're welding heat-treated steel you want to look at your heat treating process and get a post heat and preheat that is below the draw temperatures of that steel.
The temperatures I gave you for annealed steel would be for a larger sections of Steel if you're welding thinner sections you could get by with preheats of 50% of that. Remember when welding you want to maintain your welding temperature about your preheat temperature if temperatures drop below that you need to put back in the oven to bring up the temperature or let set in the oven to stabilize the temperature. Usually this is not a problem but on some Steals and Tool Steels it can be very critical
Remember if you're welding heat-treated steel you want to look at your heat treating process and get a post heat and preheat that is below the draw temperatures of that steel.
The temperatures I gave you for annealed steel would be for a larger sections of Steel if you're welding thinner sections you could get by with preheats of 50% of that. Remember when welding you want to maintain your welding temperature about your preheat temperature if temperatures drop below that you need to put back in the oven to bring up the temperature or let set in the oven to stabilize the temperature. Usually this is not a problem but on some Steals and Tool Steels it can be very critical
I don't envy you this job... Possibly ER70S2 or maybe 4140 filler if you want it harder. I'd probably shy awy from the job if I didn't have an in-house way to do the post-heat accurately. There's not a lot of tolerance on that temp (+/- 50*).
I've never done welds on 1095, but I've done plenty of welds on high carbon steels. Enough that I'd be hesitant to just wing it. Try one part, make sure you give it 24 hours after all the post weld treatments you intend to do, and see if it's cracked. If it's me, I don't even try stuff any more unless it'll fit in my oven. If forced to do it, and I didn't have a furnace, I'd use tempilaq https://www.royalsupply.com/store/pc/Tempil-24425-Tempilaq-Indicating-Liquid-454-C-850-F-TL0850-2-p79336.htm
and make sure the temp was really close for 20 minutes.
I've never done welds on 1095, but I've done plenty of welds on high carbon steels. Enough that I'd be hesitant to just wing it. Try one part, make sure you give it 24 hours after all the post weld treatments you intend to do, and see if it's cracked. If it's me, I don't even try stuff any more unless it'll fit in my oven. If forced to do it, and I didn't have a furnace, I'd use tempilaq https://www.royalsupply.com/store/pc/Tempil-24425-Tempilaq-Indicating-Liquid-454-C-850-F-TL0850-2-p79336.htm
and make sure the temp was really close for 20 minutes.
EutecTrode Xuper 680 CGS
Applications
Jigs, Molds , Dies , Leaf springs, High strength repairs to earthmoving, mining, constructional equipment, Chassis and under carriage repairs , Manganese steel components.
This is a higher grade eutectic rod the straight 680 would do the job in my estimation but if you want a bulletproof rod try the 680 c g s
Applications
Jigs, Molds , Dies , Leaf springs, High strength repairs to earthmoving, mining, constructional equipment, Chassis and under carriage repairs , Manganese steel components.
This is a higher grade eutectic rod the straight 680 would do the job in my estimation but if you want a bulletproof rod try the 680 c g s
You should clarify what the steel is before you go too far. Spring steel is usually 5160 steel that is quite different from 1095.Dimestack wrote: ↑Wed Aug 18, 2021 8:29 pm Hey all, looking for some guidance on a job coming down the line. My understanding is that the material will be 1095 spring steel that needs to be heat treated after welding. Does anyone have experience in this area? I believe I’m looking at preheat and post heat to start. How about a wire suggestion or and advice on procedures. We don’t heat treat in our shop. That will be sent out
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Yikes, what's it for? If it's 1095 with a post weld heat treat, I have to imagine it's 1095 for a reason. Maybe the 1095 is just being used for wear resistance, so the weld strength may not be as critical, but if the the weld is intended to be as strong as or nearly as strong as the base metal itself things are going to be a lot more complicated. As others have said, a preheat to 850-900f is going to be critical to avoid stress cracking, It's very hard if not impossible to find 1095 filler material, however you could as others suggested go with something like 4140 which can be heat treated itself to a much higher tensile strength. Otherwise, I'm personally fond of ER312 for any situation like this. It's highly crack resistant, 100k-120kPSI tensile and makes a very good all purpose rod for unknown or hard to weld steels.