Has anyone changed out the stock torch handle on a Miller Diversion 180? I'd like to replace the current torch w/amp control for a smaller WP 9 with a weldtec whip type gas hose. The reason I want to do this is two fold - one is to make the hose lighter and not roll my wrist when trying to weld and second is to have a lighter torch and be able to use smaller tungsten and rod/wire for welding thin 20 ga. steel sheet. Thanks for any thoughts on this.
Ken
RedIron881
- RedIron881
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Workhorse
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Posts:
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Joined:Fri Mar 23, 2012 9:29 am
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Location:Phoenix, AZ
Ken,
I asked my welding supply friend about your question. He said the only thing you could do is change the head out
to a wp9. Kind of gets you half way to what you want. If you ask me that was very stupid of miller to hard wire that
torch.
I asked my welding supply friend about your question. He said the only thing you could do is change the head out
to a wp9. Kind of gets you half way to what you want. If you ask me that was very stupid of miller to hard wire that
torch.
I've been trying to save money for some fabrication equipment to use out of my garage, up until I first joined and started watching the video's Jody releases I never knew the torch was hardwired in on this unit. This was the very unit I was going to be purchasing too.
Bad call on Millers part for sure.
Bad call on Millers part for sure.
I have a Diversion 165 which is basically the same as the 180 less a foot pedal, a dual voltage power plug and a digital readout. The machine end of the torch cable is "hard wired" to the power source. The business end is no problem to change torches. Have a look at these videos by John Swartz of Miller:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=De7xfyhf1Ak
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PDzR3TswzIg
I added a foot pedal to my Diversion and removed the fancy handle control and the fire hose wrapper around the torch cable. I stuffed the data cable from the original torch back into the case and wire tied it out of the way. I thus have only a single hose running from the Diversion box to the torch.
Recently I purchased a "generic" WP9 flex torch and a WP17 flex torch from www.weldingcity.com. For $10 each they were hard to resist. Both work fine. I gave the WP17 a real workout making a repair on my step-son's Farmall Super-A tractor. I was running the Diversion 165 flat out. I had to stop on occasion to allow the Diversion to cool but the $10 torch did not miss a beat.
Ken
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=De7xfyhf1Ak
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PDzR3TswzIg
I added a foot pedal to my Diversion and removed the fancy handle control and the fire hose wrapper around the torch cable. I stuffed the data cable from the original torch back into the case and wire tied it out of the way. I thus have only a single hose running from the Diversion box to the torch.
Recently I purchased a "generic" WP9 flex torch and a WP17 flex torch from www.weldingcity.com. For $10 each they were hard to resist. Both work fine. I gave the WP17 a real workout making a repair on my step-son's Farmall Super-A tractor. I was running the Diversion 165 flat out. I had to stop on occasion to allow the Diversion to cool but the $10 torch did not miss a beat.
Ken
Ken,
Thanks for the links, I had no idea.
I recently went with a good friend of mine who Tig welds quite a bit to another friend of his who has many years of experience for some lessons. While over there he did have a Diversion 165 which he has also outfitted with a foot pedal. The old' timers main welder is a Precision 275 which had a torch utilizing a gas lens. Could a gas lens be used on the torches available for the Diversion 165/180? During the lessons, I noticed it seemed easier to choke up on the Precision torch vs. the factory LS17 on the Miller unit. I can see why it would be goofy if you were using the pedal yet having the thumb controls right there in your way.
Richard
Thanks for the links, I had no idea.
I recently went with a good friend of mine who Tig welds quite a bit to another friend of his who has many years of experience for some lessons. While over there he did have a Diversion 165 which he has also outfitted with a foot pedal. The old' timers main welder is a Precision 275 which had a torch utilizing a gas lens. Could a gas lens be used on the torches available for the Diversion 165/180? During the lessons, I noticed it seemed easier to choke up on the Precision torch vs. the factory LS17 on the Miller unit. I can see why it would be goofy if you were using the pedal yet having the thumb controls right there in your way.
Richard
- Otto Nobedder
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Weldmonger
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Joined:Thu Jan 06, 2011 11:40 pm
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Location:Near New Orleans
Every commonly available torch can use a gas lens. They come in various thread patterns (I've encountered three) for the different torches. I generally prefer a gas lens, partly because that's what I learned with, and partly because there is less turbulence at the arc, which can be a problem welding outside where higher gas flow is required.
The gas lens, as I'm sure you saw at your friend's shop, requires a different cup to fit the threads on the lens, as well as a spacer gasket behind the lens. The simplest solution is to take your torch head to your supplier and say, "Set me up.".
An advantage to gas lenses is the ability to use a much larger cup. This provides wider sheilding coverage, and makes "walking the cup" a small wrist motion, giving you more precision than the large movements required to walk a small collet-body cup.
Your mileage may vary...
P.S. Thanks, Ken, for the links as well.
Steve
The gas lens, as I'm sure you saw at your friend's shop, requires a different cup to fit the threads on the lens, as well as a spacer gasket behind the lens. The simplest solution is to take your torch head to your supplier and say, "Set me up.".
An advantage to gas lenses is the ability to use a much larger cup. This provides wider sheilding coverage, and makes "walking the cup" a small wrist motion, giving you more precision than the large movements required to walk a small collet-body cup.
Your mileage may vary...
P.S. Thanks, Ken, for the links as well.
Steve
Glad to help. A couple of other things I might add...
The Diversion torches are NOT REALLY hard wired. As discussed, the torch head and handle are easy to change. As to the other end of the cable... It is not connected externally as with most TIG power sources. But, if you pop the cover you will find that the cable passes through the strain relief in the front panel an is connected inside the unit. It is really a simple matter to change the cable for repair purposes or to add a longer, shorter or fancy colored one
As to gas lens options... When I took a TIG class at the local community college some years back I got the impression that gas lenses were exotic and expensive. They are neither. The torch provided with the Diversion 165/180 is in the WP17 family. Have a look here for a good reference for part numbers http://www.weldcraft.com/parts-accessories/For example to add a medium gas lens for 3/32" tungsten you would need:
gas lens collet body 45V26
gasket 54N01
collet 10N24 (same as what is used for the standard collet body)
nozzle 54N15 or 54N14
The WP9 torch family uses different parts as the torch is smaller and so are the consumables.
I have purchased these items at weldingcity.com as well as other sources. No, I do not have any financial interest in weldingcity. I have found their products to be very good, their prices very competitive and their customer service great.
Ken
The Diversion torches are NOT REALLY hard wired. As discussed, the torch head and handle are easy to change. As to the other end of the cable... It is not connected externally as with most TIG power sources. But, if you pop the cover you will find that the cable passes through the strain relief in the front panel an is connected inside the unit. It is really a simple matter to change the cable for repair purposes or to add a longer, shorter or fancy colored one
As to gas lens options... When I took a TIG class at the local community college some years back I got the impression that gas lenses were exotic and expensive. They are neither. The torch provided with the Diversion 165/180 is in the WP17 family. Have a look here for a good reference for part numbers http://www.weldcraft.com/parts-accessories/For example to add a medium gas lens for 3/32" tungsten you would need:
gas lens collet body 45V26
gasket 54N01
collet 10N24 (same as what is used for the standard collet body)
nozzle 54N15 or 54N14
The WP9 torch family uses different parts as the torch is smaller and so are the consumables.
I have purchased these items at weldingcity.com as well as other sources. No, I do not have any financial interest in weldingcity. I have found their products to be very good, their prices very competitive and their customer service great.
Ken
workhorse this is for you about this posting topic from a century ago JK I have just purchased a diversion 180 and want to upgrade my torch cable due to the factory cable being so stiff. the torch is kicked at an angle and its tough to force it into position and weld with the good angle. the older machines were different torches and cables all together, mine is a 2024 diversion. got any ideas about upgrading cables on this machine? What's a good company to reach out to and talk about parts? also I heard is was just a matter of swapping the inner fitting inside the machine at the connection point. In hind sight I wish I would have bought a different machine maybe a primeweld the price point is so far off its ridiculous. thanks for any advice.
Aaron - this topic is from over a decade ago. I doubt you’ll get one of the original posters to respond.
As to your question, there are a few ways of addressing your problem: first is to unscrew the torch from the cable and reattach it. The “timing” of the thread engagement can be altered to make the torch angle to the cord align differently. Second, you can change the cord/cable. Switch to a 12’, 25’ Superflex cord set from CK Worldwide. These are more supple and lighter weight. They are less durable so take some care and consider wrapping them in a sleeve to protect them from being dragged about or crushed by casters, feet, steel…
As for switching to a #9 from a #17, you don’t need to do this. A #17 with a 1/8” tungsten will weld 20ga just as precisely and easily as a #9 with an 0.040 tungsten. It’s urban myth that tungsten diameter is correlated to material thickness or low amperage welding needs a smaller technique. Hogwash. My Dynasty amp starts at 5 amps and I can weld at 19 amps all day with a #17 and 1/8” tungsten. Or up to 185 amps before the torch starts to suffer. (I switch over to my water-cooled rig for 125+ welding for comfort and longevity.)
As to your question, there are a few ways of addressing your problem: first is to unscrew the torch from the cable and reattach it. The “timing” of the thread engagement can be altered to make the torch angle to the cord align differently. Second, you can change the cord/cable. Switch to a 12’, 25’ Superflex cord set from CK Worldwide. These are more supple and lighter weight. They are less durable so take some care and consider wrapping them in a sleeve to protect them from being dragged about or crushed by casters, feet, steel…
As for switching to a #9 from a #17, you don’t need to do this. A #17 with a 1/8” tungsten will weld 20ga just as precisely and easily as a #9 with an 0.040 tungsten. It’s urban myth that tungsten diameter is correlated to material thickness or low amperage welding needs a smaller technique. Hogwash. My Dynasty amp starts at 5 amps and I can weld at 19 amps all day with a #17 and 1/8” tungsten. Or up to 185 amps before the torch starts to suffer. (I switch over to my water-cooled rig for 125+ welding for comfort and longevity.)