Hi welding gurus .
I once saw a welder at a car-speed shop several years ago build weld bead on top of thin-walled aluminum intercooler pipe (~1.6mm aluminum tubing). Although, I've had success with my EverLast 225LX machine, I'm having difficulty creating a tall weld-bead around the end of this thin-walled aluminum tubing. Does anyone know how to do it without burning through the metal or penetrating too much? (The weld on the upper right is the one I was trying to make tall, but had no luck)
Machine: EverLast 225LX
Tungsten: 3/32 sharpened to a point (2% Lanthanated)
Gas: 100% Argon @ ~15 cfh
Cup: #8 weld-craft cup with Gas Lens
Heatsink: 1/4" thick flat-bar of aluminum rests directly below the aluminum tubing
Tig welding tips, questions, equipment, applications, instructions, techniques, tig welding machines, troubleshooting tig welding process
- Otto Nobedder
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Weldmonger
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Posts:
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Joined:Thu Jan 06, 2011 11:40 pm
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Location:Near New Orleans
Sound advice from rake.
Another option is to manually pulse it with your pedal (assuming you use one) after establishing your initial puddle, building each dime in a short burst of power with a firm feed of the rod (can be front-fed), and backing off the power rapidly (not to zero, just low). This takes a little practice to get the look you want consistently, but the pulsing (and using the feel of the rod-feed to keep the puddle cool) will help you avoid blowing through. Another advantage is you can do this quite slowly, meaning you can advance a careful, precise amount between each pulse, since I'm guessing it's the finished appearance you're after, not additional strength.
Either method will work, and you may yet get other advice, so give it a go on some scrap and see what works best for you.
Steve S
Another option is to manually pulse it with your pedal (assuming you use one) after establishing your initial puddle, building each dime in a short burst of power with a firm feed of the rod (can be front-fed), and backing off the power rapidly (not to zero, just low). This takes a little practice to get the look you want consistently, but the pulsing (and using the feel of the rod-feed to keep the puddle cool) will help you avoid blowing through. Another advantage is you can do this quite slowly, meaning you can advance a careful, precise amount between each pulse, since I'm guessing it's the finished appearance you're after, not additional strength.
Either method will work, and you may yet get other advice, so give it a go on some scrap and see what works best for you.
Steve S
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