rafter aron
- rafter aron
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New Member
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Posts:
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Joined:Thu Sep 05, 2013 10:31 pm
ok PROBLEM just tried to set up my new everlast 200dx. and the argon regulator is just blasting gas out of the pop off on the back of the regulator. the tag says max of 150kgf/cm2 and the pressure gauge goes right to 160. probably just gonna go down to airgas and get another one. any input would realy help as I don't know my way around regulators
I have never used the regulator that came with mine. It's in liters and I am just too use to CFH settings
that I put it on the shelf and opted for one I already had. BTW, I'm using a $35 ebay one.
That said, Everlast will replace yours if you contact them. Go to their site, get on their forum and
just ask what to do. They should hook you up PDQ.
that I put it on the shelf and opted for one I already had. BTW, I'm using a $35 ebay one.
That said, Everlast will replace yours if you contact them. Go to their site, get on their forum and
just ask what to do. They should hook you up PDQ.
rafter aron
- rafter aron
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New Member
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Posts:
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Joined:Thu Sep 05, 2013 10:31 pm
went and got a victor flow meter, and off to the races. having no idea what im doing. 2% 3/32 lanthanated and #7 cup. well the machine will take me forever to figure out. balls up the tip with very much e-p balance. so I ran many horrid beads on 1/8 aluminum. changed to a #5 cup and things improved. I just cant seem to get very consistent. the story of so many welders. but im teaching myself. with the help of jody, a tig finger and you guys. funny I tried some steel and it seemed somehow harder than aluminum. I must be screwing up. but I suspect there will be a lot of that. the arc on AC sputters a bit. which maybe normal. I have no idea. the arc start on AC seems to jump about an inch away and always in the same direction away from me. this is probably nothing but it seemed strange to me. I will keep you guys updated.
Well, yes and no.
If you are going to weld occasionally and if the machine fails you aren't going to have someone at your door wanting his part done AND you never plan on selling it than go for the cheaper machines.
I see this a lot, people only look at the dollar down amount and not the whole package. For instance, buy a Dynasty 200DX and you get a top machine, you also get top resale if you ever want to move up to a 350.
Something has to give on a cheap machine. Transformers, IGBTs, circuit boards, MOSFETs, quadrature encoders, capacitors, etc. You can cut those parts back and get something that might work great but day in and day out they aren't the best choice. There's something in electronic design called MTBF. This stands for "mean time between failures" and manufacturer's designs all have it. What it tells you is how long you can expect a product to last before it runs into the area of failure. Two relays can function exactly the same but one can have a cycle life of one million cycles and the other 500. the later is of course much cheaper.
You still get what you pay for. Watch a couple of Jody's videos and you'll see cheaper TIGs with caps falling off the knobs and things like that. He's a pro doing full time welding so you may be able to get away with the machine but don't expect the guts to be Lincoln's equal. In fact it gets worse, now my distributors are sending me info on fake parts. There's a big thing going on in the East where parts are designed to look exactly like, say, a Texas instrument chip but aren't up to TI's standards. Could the cheap welders have those parts? Very likely.
Then there's getting parts 20 years later for your beloved welder. Miller, you bet I still can. How about the cheap welder, will that company be in business in 20 years?
Bottom line, sure up front it's cheaper but is it really?
Rob
If you are going to weld occasionally and if the machine fails you aren't going to have someone at your door wanting his part done AND you never plan on selling it than go for the cheaper machines.
I see this a lot, people only look at the dollar down amount and not the whole package. For instance, buy a Dynasty 200DX and you get a top machine, you also get top resale if you ever want to move up to a 350.
Something has to give on a cheap machine. Transformers, IGBTs, circuit boards, MOSFETs, quadrature encoders, capacitors, etc. You can cut those parts back and get something that might work great but day in and day out they aren't the best choice. There's something in electronic design called MTBF. This stands for "mean time between failures" and manufacturer's designs all have it. What it tells you is how long you can expect a product to last before it runs into the area of failure. Two relays can function exactly the same but one can have a cycle life of one million cycles and the other 500. the later is of course much cheaper.
You still get what you pay for. Watch a couple of Jody's videos and you'll see cheaper TIGs with caps falling off the knobs and things like that. He's a pro doing full time welding so you may be able to get away with the machine but don't expect the guts to be Lincoln's equal. In fact it gets worse, now my distributors are sending me info on fake parts. There's a big thing going on in the East where parts are designed to look exactly like, say, a Texas instrument chip but aren't up to TI's standards. Could the cheap welders have those parts? Very likely.
Then there's getting parts 20 years later for your beloved welder. Miller, you bet I still can. How about the cheap welder, will that company be in business in 20 years?
Bottom line, sure up front it's cheaper but is it really?
Rob
noddybrian
- noddybrian
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Weldmonger
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Posts:
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Joined:Thu Jan 24, 2013 12:13 pm
@Robaroni.
I agree in principle 100% with your thoughts - but sadly nothing built today is designed to last too long or be repairable - I was led to believe that most inverter based machines are un-economic to repair even if parts are available & it's possible - you can get lucky & have good service from an import - you can be unlucky & have a big brand die a week out of warranty & they won't help you out - I think bottom line is buy what you can afford or can afford to replace if needed - I'm sure a Dynasty is nice - but there are import Tig's available at 1/10th the price that weld adequately for the hobbyist - now if your earning your wages with the machine then sure - buy blue or red - but whatever you decide I bet it won't be around in 20 years time sadly - it's just not like gear built in the 50s / 60's 70's - even the engine drives now have a bunch of electronic boards in them.
I agree in principle 100% with your thoughts - but sadly nothing built today is designed to last too long or be repairable - I was led to believe that most inverter based machines are un-economic to repair even if parts are available & it's possible - you can get lucky & have good service from an import - you can be unlucky & have a big brand die a week out of warranty & they won't help you out - I think bottom line is buy what you can afford or can afford to replace if needed - I'm sure a Dynasty is nice - but there are import Tig's available at 1/10th the price that weld adequately for the hobbyist - now if your earning your wages with the machine then sure - buy blue or red - but whatever you decide I bet it won't be around in 20 years time sadly - it's just not like gear built in the 50s / 60's 70's - even the engine drives now have a bunch of electronic boards in them.
echosixmike
- echosixmike
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Workhorse
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Posts:
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Joined:Wed Feb 13, 2013 8:03 am
With any inverter, all you can count on is the warrantee period. The transformer machines eat power and can't alter frequency but there's a very good chance you'll pass them on to your kids.
The domestic stuff is good for production in that you have a local dealer network that can get you a loaner machine in a matter of hours in many cases while they fix/replace the broken machine. S/F.....Ken M
The domestic stuff is good for production in that you have a local dealer network that can get you a loaner machine in a matter of hours in many cases while they fix/replace the broken machine. S/F.....Ken M
Red: PowerMIG 300, Square Wave 175
Blue: DEL200, Syncro250, XMT300
Green: STH160
Black: Tweco 181i Fabricator
Oddball: Craftsman HF unit
Blue: DEL200, Syncro250, XMT300
Green: STH160
Black: Tweco 181i Fabricator
Oddball: Craftsman HF unit