Tig welding tips, questions, equipment, applications, instructions, techniques, tig welding machines, troubleshooting tig welding process
Post Reply
User avatar
  • Posts:
  • Joined:
    Wed Oct 16, 2013 6:48 pm
  • Location:
    Otawara City, Japan

Hi
After a number of hours on the torch I have now realized a new problem occurring. I have continuos splitting/ looks like exploded end on my electrode. Tried all types and the only one that douse not seem to be affected is the green

My welds look much better and clean but this issue of the splitting tungsten has got me beat as I have tried several different batch electrodes of the various colors an it still happens
Is it a machine set up issue
Running 135amps on peek, 85on low with about 265 on the frequency.
Attachments
image.jpg
image.jpg (106.46 KiB) Viewed 8130 times
Marc. Aussie on the loose
User avatar
  • Posts:
  • Joined:
    Sun Oct 27, 2013 10:57 pm
  • Location:
    Big Lake/Monticello MN, U.S.A.

Marc Godwin wrote:Hi
After a number of hours on the torch I have now realized a new problem occurring. I have continuos splitting/ looks like exploded end on my electrode. Tried all types and the only one that douse not seem to be affected is the green

My welds look much better and clean but this issue of the splitting tungsten has got me beat as I have tried several different batch electrodes of the various colors an it still happens
Is it a machine set up issue
Running 135amps on peek, 85on low with about 265 on the frequency.
Lots of questions, so bear with me :)

Could you post a pic of the split end?

What size tungsten are you running? What machine? Sounds like an inverter since you have frequency adjustment.

Why are you running pulse and such a high freq? I don't have an inverter and weld on standard 60 hz with 50/50 balanced wave arc.

Pulse is not really needed on thick aluminum (looks like 1/8" stock).

What balance setting are you running?

Try more standard setup.
No pulse
100 Hz to 150 Hz freq
60% neg, 40% pos
If it's 1/8" aluminum, 150 amps or so.
Dave J.

Beware of false knowledge; it is more dangerous than ignorance. ~George Bernard Shaw~

Syncro 350
Invertec v250-s
Thermal Arc 161 and 300
MM210
Dialarc
Tried being normal once, didn't take....I think it was a Tuesday.
ajlskater1
  • Posts:
  • Joined:
    Thu Feb 02, 2012 5:32 am

Sounds like a very typical problem with a inverter machine and some of the different kinds of tungstens. That is a very common problem with 2percent thoriated (red) tungstens. A good trick I have found works is to get a peice of copper and turn your balance way down and light up on the copper till just the very tip rounds off, then turn your machine back to whatever balance you need and weld. Also when you grind your tungsten put a flat spot on the end of the tungsten, this helps a lot with 2 percent thoriated and ceriated tungsten. My favorite tungsten is 2 percent lananated they ball up very nicely, almost everytime.
User avatar
  • Posts:
  • Joined:
    Wed Oct 16, 2013 6:48 pm
  • Location:
    Otawara City, Japan

MinnesotaDave wrote:
Marc Godwin wrote:Hi
After a number of hours on the torch I have now realized a new problem occurring. I have continuos splitting/ looks like exploded end on my electrode. Tried all types and the only one that douse not seem to be affected is the green

My welds look much better and clean but this issue of the splitting tungsten has got me beat as I have tried several different batch electrodes of the various colors an it still happens
Is it a machine set up issue
Running 135amps on peek, 85on low with about 265 on the frequency.
Lots of questions, so bear with me :)

Could you post a pic of the split end?

What size tungsten are you running? What machine? Sounds like an inverter since you have frequency adjustment.

Why are you running pulse and such a high freq? I don't have an inverter and weld on standard 60 hz with 50/50 balanced wave arc.

Pulse is not really needed on thick aluminum (looks like 1/8" stock).

What balance setting are you running?

Try more standard setup.
No pulse
100 Hz to 150 Hz freq
60% neg, 40% pos
If it's 1/8" aluminum, 150 amps or so.
Thanks for the reply

Unfortunately I ground the electrodes to see how far the split went. And found out they vary between 3-10 mm the only way to explain how it looks is like the centre of the electrode exploded out leaving it looking all spiky :D
I am running 2.4 mm electrodes.
I am running pulse as that is what Jody does and I am self tout from watching his videos. Also I don't have a foot pedal with this Chinese Shiyo AC/DC welder
Frequency is up as I find running low frequency I tend to get a lot of arc wander and it seams to suck the filler material onto the electrode easier if low frequency. Maybe just my technique due to arc wander and thus hold too close an arc?
I run about 50/50 arc balance as I seem to also loose heat when I run to much cleaning.
Marc. Aussie on the loose
User avatar
  • Posts:
  • Joined:
    Wed Oct 16, 2013 6:48 pm
  • Location:
    Otawara City, Japan

ajlskater1 wrote:Sounds like a very typical problem with a inverter machine and some of the different kinds of tungstens. That is a very common problem with 2percent thoriated (red) tungstens. A good trick I have found works is to get a peice of copper and turn your balance way down and light up on the copper till just the very tip rounds off, then turn your machine back to whatever balance you need and weld. Also when you grind your tungsten put a flat spot on the end of the tungsten, this helps a lot with 2 percent thoriated and ceriated tungsten. My favorite tungsten is 2 percent lananated they ball up very nicely, almost everytime.
Hi cheers,

I do use a piece of copper to clean the electrode but never tried udjusting the balance, you say down does that mean more heat? Sorry newbie here :D
I will try the Lananated electrodes as you suggest
Marc. Aussie on the loose
ajlskater1
  • Posts:
  • Joined:
    Thu Feb 02, 2012 5:32 am

Well if uou are getting long cracks it mayb from how you are cutting your tungstens to length. Some tungtens are very brittle so you need to be careful if you are using the break technique especially 2 percent lanthated and thoriated, I recommend cutting them. Sorry what I meant by lowering your balance was turn your machine to max cleaning when balling tungsten on the copper, than turn it back to penetration when welding. The normal settings I use is a balanc of 70. So that 70 percent penetration ( dcen) and 30 percent cleaning (dcep). Hope some of that helps you. And I high recomend getting a footpedal for welding aluminum.
User avatar
  • Posts:
  • Joined:
    Wed Oct 16, 2013 6:48 pm
  • Location:
    Otawara City, Japan

ajlskater1 wrote:Well if uou are getting long cracks it mayb from how you are cutting your tungstens to length. Some tungtens are very brittle so you need to be careful if you are using the break technique especially 2 percent lanthated and thoriated, I recommend cutting them. Sorry what I meant by lowering your balance was turn your machine to max cleaning when balling tungsten on the copper, than turn it back to penetration when welding. The normal settings I use is a balanc of 70. So that 70 percent penetration ( dcen) and 30 percent cleaning (dcep). Hope some of that helps you. And I high recomend getting a footpedal for welding aluminum.
I would agree but it happens on brand new tungstens never cut only rounded on the end on a grinding wheel never used for anything other than the electrodes?.
I am looking at getting a proper tungsten grinder but not cheap.

Any other ideas as it is expensive to throw away the electrodes after just one run. I have tried to grind the cracks out but no so success full.
Green does not do it at all but I read you should not use green on AC inverter machine

Cheers
Marc. Aussie on the loose
ajlskater1
  • Posts:
  • Joined:
    Thu Feb 02, 2012 5:32 am

You can use pure(green) on a inverter, I do for the xray alum pressure tanks I do so I don't risk tunsten spitting. I know you said you were running a balanced 50/50, mayb try 70/30 add more dcen so you are not putting so much heat on the tungsten from the dcep. Also try the 2 percent lanthanated those things are awesome. Hopefully that helps.
User avatar
  • Posts:
  • Joined:
    Wed Oct 16, 2013 6:48 pm
  • Location:
    Otawara City, Japan

Do you suggest to cut the tungsten every time I contaminate it in the weld puddle/ filler rod? As currently I just clean it on the grinding wheel to clean all the metal off. Is this maybe the reason for the splitting?

How do I cut the electrode, do I need a diamond wheel in my grinder? I think I will need to by another grinder as I will need to permanently mount the diamond cut off wheel :lol: as I do get contamination I fair bit.

Thanks for all your kind advice.
Marc. Aussie on the loose
ajlskater1
  • Posts:
  • Joined:
    Thu Feb 02, 2012 5:32 am

No there is no need to cut it everytine you junk your tungsten, as long as you grind it clean you are fine. I was referring to if you cut or break your tungstens in half to fit a short back cap becareful because some will crack if not done correctly. Diamond grinding wheels/ special tungsten grinders are nice but honestly not needed for most application. A belt grinder or simple bench grinders work just fine. To cut tungstens you don't need anything special, a cut wheel, side of a bench grinding stone work great. Again special tungsten grinders work awesome but not needed
NT Unique

Hi Mate
I find I get this problem it the initial ignition ark is too high. HF and high amps tend to split tungsten's. Try setting your machine so that your initial ark amps fairly low, then have it upslope over about 3 seconds. This should stop the splitting.
Why dose no one over there use Zirconiated tungsten's? They were designed specifically for welding alloy, and do an exception job of it

Cheers
User avatar
  • Posts:
  • Joined:
    Fri Apr 01, 2011 10:59 pm
  • Location:
    Australia; Victoria

Hey,

I was going to ask about the Zirconated tungstens but my phone messed up. It the only one we have at work and no problems had.

Mick
User avatar
  • Posts:
  • Joined:
    Wed Oct 16, 2013 6:48 pm
  • Location:
    Otawara City, Japan

NT Unique wrote:Hi Mate
I find I get this problem it the initial ignition ark is too high. HF and high amps tend to split tungsten's. Try setting your machine so that your initial ark amps fairly low, then have it upslope over about 3 seconds. This should stop the splitting.
Why dose no one over there use Zirconiated tungsten's? They were designed specifically for welding alloy, and do an exception job of it

Cheers
I was looking at that and my machine does not have an upslope , it only has pre flow gas and down slope
Ok I will see if I can get the zirconiated electrodes on amazon and give them ago
Cheers mate.
Marc. Aussie on the loose
User avatar
  • Posts:
  • Joined:
    Wed Oct 16, 2013 6:48 pm
  • Location:
    Otawara City, Japan

weldin mike 27 wrote:Hey,

I was going to ask about the Zirconated tungstens but my phone messed up. It the only one we have at work and no problems had.

Mick
Does anyone have a sepec sheet I can down load that shows all types of electrodes and specific applications.
Marc. Aussie on the loose
User avatar
  • Posts:
  • Joined:
    Sat Jul 06, 2013 11:16 am
  • Location:
    Near Pittsburgh,Pennsylvania. Steel Buckle of the Rust Belt

Go to diamondgroundproducts.com and download their free guide. And they sell good tungsten on their site also. I've never had a problem with their brand, but that's just me.

Len
Now go melt something.
Instagram @lenny_gforce

Len
User avatar
  • Posts:
  • Joined:
    Wed Oct 16, 2013 6:48 pm
  • Location:
    Otawara City, Japan

Thanks. Just checked out the site product is $30 for the packet and $88 for shipping. Need to find a closer supplier :D
Marc. Aussie on the loose
grinder
  • Posts:
  • Joined:
    Fri Dec 06, 2013 4:19 pm
  • Location:
    Minnesota

Did you get the splitting figured out? :?:
User avatar
  • Posts:
  • Joined:
    Wed Oct 16, 2013 6:48 pm
  • Location:
    Otawara City, Japan

grinder wrote:Did you get the splitting figured out? :?:
Hi Grinder,

Actually no as I have not touched the torch since that post as I was made redundant and my contract canceled at work so we have been packing everything to move home to japan..
Mining industry has taken quite a kick in the pants globally

But alls we'll as I will be building a big shed on the farm in Japan to house the tractors and combines and planters, so will give you the run down on how it goes
Ps, just received my Dynasty 200DX and have not even taken it out the box :cry:
Marc. Aussie on the loose
grinder
  • Posts:
  • Joined:
    Fri Dec 06, 2013 4:19 pm
  • Location:
    Minnesota

Sorry to hear about the job. Good luck and have a safe trip.
Grinder
Post Reply