Here goes, I'm in college and don't have a ton of money to burn but I got a little HF Mig Welder like 2yrs ago, seems to work fine for most things but never looks pretty. But I can't just whip out a grand for a Decent TIG Machine.
Here's my question, My pap has this OLD Miller AC/DC Stick welder Specifically a "Model 250" as printed on the machine. Which He said i could use anytime, I also have a cheap source of Argon to use. I was reading and looks like I could attach a TIG torch to it and do Steel by scratch starting it. But is there also any way I could do Alum? Also what settings should I use? Also the two ports on the bottom which go to what? One is labeled "work" the other "electrode."
I'm REALLY new to TIG, I've watched a ton of Youtube Videos and such, but not a whole lot pertaining to this.
You can use what you linked for scratch start in DC. AC won't maintain the arc without a high freq box. So no alum. Torch lead goes to electrode port, gas line goes to bottle and the third line for the trigger switch will be unused. The torch will always be hot when the machine is on. Set the machine to STR. Polarity to get DCEN.
I'm used to seeing torch setups like in the link below for scratch start though.
Miles of welds are being done out in the field everyday with the regular electrode clamped onto the brass lug that's shown in the link AFSATCOM posted. I do it on a regular basis at work with a welder that's as old or older than the one you are trying to use. It will weld everything but Aluminum since there's no High Frequency on that welder. You'll need a torch with a built in gas valve to be able to start and stop the Argon flow at the torch, and the adapter that normally hooks to a threaded lug on the welder.
This may be a time when I'd say to go to your local welding supply and tell them what you're trying to do and pay the extra money, but you'll get the right stuff the first time. They may even have a used 17 or 26 torch that they have repaired the threads on in the back that you could buy cheap.
I was understanding that I could just clamp the "electrode" (or whatever the clamp that holds the stick when stick welding is called) to the little nub on the end of the torch, not actually plug it in to the machine. Is that basically the same concept for the other torch? Just in the little ring area? I just like the look of the blue one better, not that it's a big deal between buying one or the other.
One other question, I don't see the Tungsten part in either of those pictures, is that something that would be included or at least normally be included, or so i just have to get those separate at a local welding supply?
tungstens are sometime supplied or sometimes not. if not you can pick them up at any welding supply. when you get your torch, take it with you so you get the right size (daimeter) one. make sure they know you are welding steel so they can supply the optimum type.
Jay,
Yes, the electrode holder will just clamp on the end of the torch in either the ring terminal or the twist lock end (Dinse connector). I don't know if your electrode holder will open wide enough to accept the Dinse connector or not, not likely. You'll also need a short peice of Argon hose to go from your regulator to the hose connection on the torch.
Tungsten can be purcased at most local welding supply stores or in about a million places online, avoid cheap chinese tungsten at all cost. It will give you problems that a new welder doesn't even know they have. I'm not sure what collets come with those torches but I would start with 3/32" tungsten to get started with, it's about middle of the road and will weld almost anything you will encounter while learning.
Keep asking questions as you go and somebody here will steer you straight.
