So, I've got this small clutch lever off of an old Warn Winch that has broken in two places. It's cast aluminum from what I can tell, and very porous.
Now, it's a simple lever, I think I could easilly make a new one out of steel or non-cast aluminum. However, since now I have a TIG welder, I'd like to at least attempt to repair this haha!
So, I was wondering what's the best thing to do to get a good of a result as possible?
The broken pieces fit up very well, there are no missing chunks. So, I was thinking maybe I should just fit them up snug, and fuse weld them, instead of filing them down and making a groove? Is it worth it to torch the aluminum first, to bake off any oils or whatever on the outside?
Thoughts, suggestions?
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danielbuck
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- Braehill
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Dan,
First off, you listed your best solution when you said you could easily make a replacement out of steel or Aluminum.
You can try to weld it but don't get your hopes up on a great result. Most pieces that thin will end up on your shoes in a puddle before you have time to react.
But heating it up to boil off any oil will help clean it, but I would let it cool down before attempting my weld. If you have a heavy chunk of copper you could use it for a backer to hold the melting metal in place.
Good Luck
Len
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First off, you listed your best solution when you said you could easily make a replacement out of steel or Aluminum.
You can try to weld it but don't get your hopes up on a great result. Most pieces that thin will end up on your shoes in a puddle before you have time to react.
But heating it up to boil off any oil will help clean it, but I would let it cool down before attempting my weld. If you have a heavy chunk of copper you could use it for a backer to hold the melting metal in place.
Good Luck
Len
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Now go melt something.
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Len
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Len
- AKweldshop
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Your gonna pop the roll pins out and work it over on your bench, right?
Just a couple welders and a couple of big hammers and torches.
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danielbuck
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Oh yes, most definitely. I'll isolate the lever before I do anything.AKweldshop wrote:Your gonna pop the roll pins out and work it over on your bench, right?
The roll pins though, I've never had to replace them before, any idea how do you insert new ones? are they kind of like a pop-revit? I was planning on just pounding them out, but haven't quite figured out how I'll replace them again A cotter pin and dowel with one flat side was what I had thought about doing, it's not original spec, but it would do just fine I think.
Yea, I kinda figured this would be the ultimate solution. I've got plenty of flat bar that will do just fine for the lever. But, just for kicks and for learning, I'd like to try and repair the original lever, even if I don't end up actually using it on the winch itself. It's probably more and excuse to power up the TIG machine than anything elseAKweldshop wrote:Your gonna pop the roll pins out and work it over on your bench, right?
450dualsport
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I would give it a try for practice. If you can make another one, you have nothing to lose.
Before I had my tig welder, I welded a broken clutch lever for a dirt bike with my spool gun. It was only a $10 part, but I wanted to see if it could be done. 5 years and several crashes later, it's still hanging on although I carry a spare!
Before I had my tig welder, I welded a broken clutch lever for a dirt bike with my spool gun. It was only a $10 part, but I wanted to see if it could be done. 5 years and several crashes later, it's still hanging on although I carry a spare!
- Superiorwelding
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danielbuck,
A few ideas for you. I have repaired some cast Alum from cars and some I have had luck with.
I agree with either the torch to bake out some impurities, but let it cool down as mentioned, or I have light up with the TIG torch and just burn off impurities. When you think you got it clean it really good with a SS brush and go to town. I would recommend 4043 as filler as I have had good luck in this application. If you can tack/weld the sides and bevel/fill. If it is not weldable you will know when you light up on it.
Again it has worked on some of my applications. If nothing else it will make good practice and you can make a new piece if it doesn't work. Best of luck to you.
A few ideas for you. I have repaired some cast Alum from cars and some I have had luck with.
I agree with either the torch to bake out some impurities, but let it cool down as mentioned, or I have light up with the TIG torch and just burn off impurities. When you think you got it clean it really good with a SS brush and go to town. I would recommend 4043 as filler as I have had good luck in this application. If you can tack/weld the sides and bevel/fill. If it is not weldable you will know when you light up on it.
Again it has worked on some of my applications. If nothing else it will make good practice and you can make a new piece if it doesn't work. Best of luck to you.
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Twitter- @_JonathanLewis
https://www.learntotig.com
https://www.superiorweldandfab.com
https://www.youtube.com/+SuperiorWeldin ... ATHANLEWIS
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