Tig welding tips, questions, equipment, applications, instructions, techniques, tig welding machines, troubleshooting tig welding process
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72novaproject
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    Sat Jul 10, 2010 2:43 pm
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Hello all,

I am about to weld my roll bar in my car and I would like to Tig weld it. It is a mild steel bar and I know I could Mig weld it but I think my Tig skills have improved enough to attempt it.

The problem I think is going to be positioning the foot pedal which I will use where possible but there will be some areas I will have to have someone else outside the car push the pedal or use a fingertip control. I don’t want to adjust amperage with it just turn the torch on and off.

Looking on the internet for one gets sort of confusing and mostly what I see are amperage controls.

My welder is a Miller Syncrowave 200 (for now) and the manual shows it to accept an aftermarket control but that’s about as far as it explains it. I know just enough about this to be dangerous and as far as I can tell there is no T2 or T4 settings on my machine.

Can anyone out there help me sort this out?

By the way I just bought Jody’s stubby gas lens kit. Just on the electrode side it took a full inch off my existing gas lens.

Here is a look at the project.
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Here is my joint fit up.
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This is my first practice piece.
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Thanks in advance or any help or advice you can offer.
To each problem, exists a solution. Now just think.

Steve
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I went to google and typed in tig torch on off switch and got this: http://www.arc-zone.com/index.php?main_ ... n7jc8pq1q4
It is a 14 pin which is what miller runs.
It's always best to build your own, especially when it comes to hitches!!!
Matt
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SSC Controls Cross-Reference Guide on their site says, your machine should have a 14-pin circular connector that is used to connect your foot pedal. Is this correct?

If so, you can make a momentary push button switch. I made one for my Dynasty 200SD, and it was really simple to do; also a lot cheaper than purchasing a store bought switch. You'll need the connector and clamp below if your machine does use a 14-pin circular connector. A momentary switch like the one listed below, and a 20ft roll (or however long your torch leads are) of 16-18 AWG stranded copper black wire and 16-18 AWG stranded copper white wire. Then, just solder the white wire to PIN A, and the black wire to PIN B of the plug, and connect the wires to the switch. Tape up the wires, and you now have use of a momentary push button switch.

As for SSC Controls, they are who I purchased my foot pedal from, and the circular connector from to make my switch, and once ordered I had the items shipped fairly quick. As for the site for the switch, I have not done business with them, and used it as a reference to the type of switch I used.

($16.15) Part# 10041-20 Straight plug, 14 pin for Miller Welders, solder cups, size 20
($5.10) Part# 10041-C12 Cable clamp, size 20 or 22, fits up to .50"
http://www.ssccontrols.com/homepage-connector.htm
http://www.ssccontrols.com/images/conne ... nector.jpg
http://www.ssccontrols.com/ProductInfoS ... lders).pdf
http://www.ssccontrols.com/TIGchart.htm

($12.35) Anchor SW1F Switch Momentary Flat
http://weldwarehouse.com/cgi-bin/einste ... 1:100=SW1F
72novaproject
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Thanks for the help guys.

Dynasty, while that sounds like a fun project, and I admire your resourcefulness, I just don’t have the time to work through all that at the moment so I will be ordering the pre-made switch. Oh, and by the way, yes, my machine does have the 14 pin connector you referred to. I saved the link to SSC for future projects.

Thanks again,

Steve
To each problem, exists a solution. Now just think.

Steve
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