Hi,
I have a request to see my welding stainless steel. I Just learning Tig weld.
Welded tubes and mostly already the third day and now I do not like holes in the beginning but if this is supposed to look weld?
I weld pipe stainless steel -2mm, 55A, gas 5L/m (save to learn), plus wire 1,5.
What I should improve.
Thanks !
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Tig welding tips, questions, equipment, applications, instructions, techniques, tig welding machines, troubleshooting tig welding process
Welcome
Good start for beginner welds
Pre flow and a little more gas flow
Check vids this site about back purge for stainless and solar B flux(limited apps for flux)
Good start for beginner welds
Pre flow and a little more gas flow
Check vids this site about back purge for stainless and solar B flux(limited apps for flux)
Everlast 250EX
Miller 250 syncrowave
Sharp LMV Vertical Mill
Takisawa TSL-800-D Lathe
Coupla Bandsaws,Grinders,surface grinder,tool/cutter grinder
and more stuff than I deserve(Thanks Significant Other)
Miller 250 syncrowave
Sharp LMV Vertical Mill
Takisawa TSL-800-D Lathe
Coupla Bandsaws,Grinders,surface grinder,tool/cutter grinder
and more stuff than I deserve(Thanks Significant Other)
Welcome along
On that pipe to pipe weld I strongly recommend to use purge gas inside. It makes tacking but also welding much easier. Little bit more shielding gas flow too. 8 l/min should work.
I would change that collet body to short gas lense.
Almost forgot. Clean pipes before welding, if those are even a little dirty. Puddle is much easier to handle when there is not inpurities.
On that pipe to pipe weld I strongly recommend to use purge gas inside. It makes tacking but also welding much easier. Little bit more shielding gas flow too. 8 l/min should work.
I would change that collet body to short gas lense.
Almost forgot. Clean pipes before welding, if those are even a little dirty. Puddle is much easier to handle when there is not inpurities.
-Markus-
Back-purge or use Solar Flux B.
Ditch the club and use a 9-series, as the lighter weight and shorter cup will make it much more maneuverable, which will increase your weld quality and productivity. Are you using a footpedal, or just the torch on/off switch?
Ditch the club and use a 9-series, as the lighter weight and shorter cup will make it much more maneuverable, which will increase your weld quality and productivity. Are you using a footpedal, or just the torch on/off switch?
Hi and welcome
Your torch looks just like my friends. He says the trigger is a little to heavy so the torch wiggles a bit when he start it. Think he modified it to trigger more easily. Something maybe to look for on yours. Its all about the little details
Your torch looks just like my friends. He says the trigger is a little to heavy so the torch wiggles a bit when he start it. Think he modified it to trigger more easily. Something maybe to look for on yours. Its all about the little details
Pictures from my scrap collection:
http://forum.weldingtipsandtricks.com/v ... f=9&t=5677
http://forum.weldingtipsandtricks.com/v ... f=9&t=5677
My observation and recommendations would be as follows:1,too much heat input,it appears that you are not cooling the base metal between passes.the base metal should be below 350 degrees between passes. compressed air works great.
2, the use of a gas lens would improve the argon flow from the torch. use aprox. 12/15 cfm.
3,coll and wire brush( stainless steel) between passes.
4,angle your torch aprox. 7 degrees.
5, use 1/16 in. filler wire and use smaller beads.
6, multi passes produce a better weld than a single pass. this produces a refined grain structure.
7. a larger gas cup will improve gas coverage , and don't extend tungsten too far, shorter is better.
8,the craters at the end of a pass are caused by down-sloping the amperage too fast .
We all have gone through this learning curve. Hope some of this info.helps some............ron
2, the use of a gas lens would improve the argon flow from the torch. use aprox. 12/15 cfm.
3,coll and wire brush( stainless steel) between passes.
4,angle your torch aprox. 7 degrees.
5, use 1/16 in. filler wire and use smaller beads.
6, multi passes produce a better weld than a single pass. this produces a refined grain structure.
7. a larger gas cup will improve gas coverage , and don't extend tungsten too far, shorter is better.
8,the craters at the end of a pass are caused by down-sloping the amperage too fast .
We all have gone through this learning curve. Hope some of this info.helps some............ron
Start with the basics and learn torch control.... A pad of beads while boring will really help you with consistency. Thin wall stainless is typically welded without filler metal and a back purge to prevent the "sugaring" you are seeing on the backside.A lot of good advice above, my saying for stainless is get in and get out, if it doesn't puddle quick up your amps, you want to limit the heat input or you can make it brittle an cause it to rust. Practice makes perfect..your on the right track!
The joint has to be very tight and flat...I do sanitary pipe and vessels daily, 98% of the time I'm welding stainless. I also suggest the stubby gas lens, usaweld.com has a nice kit.
The joint has to be very tight and flat...I do sanitary pipe and vessels daily, 98% of the time I'm welding stainless. I also suggest the stubby gas lens, usaweld.com has a nice kit.
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I weld stainless, stainless and more stainless...Food Industry, sanitary process piping, vessels, whatever is needed, I like to make stuff.
ASME IX, AWS 17.1, D1.1
Instagram #RNHFAB
ASME IX, AWS 17.1, D1.1
Instagram #RNHFAB
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