Looking at your test runs without filler it looks like your in the right neighborhood with your amperage. Black soot is usually caused by one of two things, poor gas coverage and or something on or in the base metal. If you were making full penetration butt welds I would say that you might need to clean the back side also but that's not the case here.
I'd say that you probably can increase the amount that you're tilting the torch back a little so you can watch the back of the puddle more. You can't get crazy here though. This is where it's most important to only add the rod to the front of the puddle, then advance. You can also increase the amount you advance some too. Too much rod cools the puddle too fast and traps porosity, that's what's causing the pin holes in the weld. While learning you can increase your side to side motion to make up for too much rod, you can learn to reduce bead width later. Then there's always, use a smaller filler and force the puddle to pull it in.
I find trying to put instructions in print is like trying to mail someone a haircut.
I have poor results on steel when I have too narrow a gas shroud. I like a straight sided one. (#8) and make sure you have absolutely minimum electrode stick out. I run about 10 litres per minute.
If the paint on the back side is fuming up and into your cover gas it could be contaminating your gas shield. It should be easy to remove now that you've welded on it. Plus it will smell better in the shop.
Braehill wrote:If the paint on the back side is fuming up and into your cover gas it could be contaminating your gas shield. It should be easy to remove now that you've welded on it. Plus it will smell better in the shop.
Len
I definetly believe that burning paint smells horrible. Im going to home depot tonight actually and getting some metal. I ordered 2 sheets of 4ft x 8ft aluminum
I don't believe that they're all important but the use of a gas lens does help with gas coverage and you can leave a little more tungsten stick out so you can see the puddle better. Next time you go to your LWS pick up a couple and a couple cups for them. I use 3/32 on most everything steel that I have to weld and I would start there along with a couple CK wedge collets if they stock them (they last near forever) and maybe an #8 cup or two . If you get hooked on this you'll have a full collection soon enough, we all do. They also make a stubby gas lens kit for your 17 style torch which makes it more compact, nice but again not required.
Braehill wrote:I don't believe that they're all important but the use of a gas lens does help with gas coverage and you can leave a little more tungsten stick out so you can see the puddle better. Next time you go to your LWS pick up a couple and a couple cups for them. I use 3/32 on most everything steel that I have to weld and I would start there along with a couple CK wedge collets if they stock them (they last near forever) and maybe an #8 cup or two . If you get hooked on this you'll have a full collection soon enough, we all do. They also make a stubby gas lens kit for your 17 style torch which makes it more compact, nice but again not required.
Len
I was looking into a gas lens kit and a stubby kit for my torch it has the super flex cable already. I much perfer it over the regular cable. My lws gave me a 200 credit because my welder came in a few days late so i'll be picking up some more stuff soon
Hey guys I have another question for you would not tapering off at the end of my weld cause kraters. Ive been welding on aluminum ny help ould be appreciated
