My new Tig welder arrived this week, its a Jasic wse200p (made in china). I've never used a tig before, so while waiting for the machine to arrive, I spent my nights watching Jodys fine videos to get me started. Set up the machine today, got the hang of what all the knobs did, so here is a couple of pics of my first go at padding beads....... yes on aluminium.
motox wrote:just goes to prove how informative and valuable
Jody's videos really are.
buy something from his store.
craig
Ordered a Big Finger Bundle and a Tig finger from his store last week, I can get similar products here in New Zealand but thought it would be nice to support Jody.
Nice! I had close to the same results. Picked up some of Jody's DVD's and had an idea on how to go about trying to tig weld. Looks like you will only get better.
Backsheddave wrote:My new Tig welder arrived this week, its a Jasic wse200p (made in china). I've never used a tig before, so while waiting for the machine to arrive, I spent my nights watching Jodys fine videos to get me started. Set up the machine today, got the hang of what all the knobs did, so here is a couple of pics of my first go at padding beads....... yes on aluminium.
Big mistake you are making. Don't run multiple beads one after the other on the same piece of aluminum. It pre heats fast and you will constantly have to adjust multiple welding parameters to compensate for the pre heat from previous beads. Make a dozen 2"x 6" coupons. Weld a bead on the first one and set it aside. Repeat on the next coupon until you have done all the coupons and now repeat starting with first coupon that will now be cooled off. Repeat.... This way you don't have to adjust amps, travel speed, filler rate etc. Learn correct, consistent technique first. Also run full length beads and learn to feed the tig rod
soutthpaw wrote:Big mistake you are making. Don't run multiple beads one after the other on the same piece of aluminum. It pre heats fast and you will constantly have to adjust multiple welding parameters to compensate for the pre heat from previous beads. Make a dozen 2"x 6" coupons. Weld a bead on the first one and set it aside. Repeat on the next coupon until you have done all the coupons and now repeat starting with first coupon that will now be cooled off. Repeat.... This way you don't have to adjust amps, travel speed, filler rate etc. Learn correct, consistent technique first. Also run full length beads and learn to feed the tig rod
Good Point Southpaw
Aluminum beads will tend to deteriorate or least look bad when the base metal gets to hot. This has been my experience at least. I believe Jody has a video stating this, something about even cooling off with a air compressor after it gets to hot.
This isn't the video I was thinking of but is't still very informative. https://www.youtube.com/watch?annotatio ... WNZioJ_FOc
Pete
Esab SVI 300, Mig 4HD wire feeder, 30A spool gun, Miller Passport, Dynasty 300 DX, Coolmate 4, Spectrum 2050, C&K Cold Wire feeder WF-3, Black Gold Tungsten Sharperner, Prime Weld 225
soutthpaw wrote:Big mistake you are making. Don't run multiple beads one after the other on the same piece of aluminum. It pre heats fast and you will constantly have to adjust multiple welding parameters to compensate for the pre heat from previous beads. Make a dozen 2"x 6" coupons. Weld a bead on the first one and set it aside. Repeat on the next coupon until you have done all the coupons and now repeat starting with first coupon that will now be cooled off. Repeat.... This way you don't have to adjust amps, travel speed, filler rate etc. Learn correct, consistent technique first. Also run full length beads and learn to feed the tig rod