[subwayrocket]

Cool box there MosquitoMoto ...and thanks for the tips Braehill .

[MosquitoMoto]

It's the forum serial pest here again, with my latest newbie weld.

This thing has been my white whale. I broke the tip off this brake lever grounding it out at the track years ago when I first started racing (despite rear set riser plates). I'd tried all manner of things to fix it since, including those low temp alloy brazing rods. I finally realised that to get this done it would have to be done with a TIG. Well, that's part of my excuse for buying one, anyhow.

Grinded and cleaned the part. Set it up and hit it with 80amps, 1.6mm zirconiated electrode (still waiting for the good Lanthanated tungstens to arrive) and 2.4mm 5356 filler rod.

Okay, it's not particularly pretty, but the filler went pretty much where I wanted it and I'm satisfied it's a strong repair.

As always, comments and feedback appreciated.

Kym

[big gear head]

Looks like a good fix to me.

[MosquitoMoto]

Looks like a good fix to me.

Thanks BGH. There is some odd grey discolouration in there. I'm thinking perhaps I may not have managed to clean off all of the remaining residue from my previous attempt to fix this part with low temperature alloy brazing rod before hitting it with the TIG. But it seems pretty sturdy and reasonably even.

Kym

[TRACKRANGER]

Hi Kym
The repair looks substantial, there has probably been some annealing that has occurred, but it sure will hold. Interestingly, the vice in the picture looks like it's done some hard labor ( )

Best
Trev

[Markus]

Going to have 6G PED-test weld tomorrow. So I did some practice today.

Material Carbon steel P355
Diameter 60.3x6.2 mm
Root face 2.0 mm
Gap 3.0 mm

Root was done with pulse and freehand. Hot pass straight current and freehand. Third pass with walking the cup. It might need 4 passes because there was some minor undercut. Perhaps I should have waited a bit longer before doing the cap.

How long you guys usually wait between passes?

[Rick_H]

Looking pretty good Markus but I agree on the underfilled, maybe you could use larger filler rod for the hot pass?

I prefer to let it cool till I can nearly keep my hand on it of possible

[Otto Nobedder]

Markus, I'd suggest 150-175*C for maximum interpass temperature. You want "some" residual heat before you try to lay a bigger pass while filling, but you don't want it so hot that you risk sagging or sucking back the root, or leaving undercut.

175*C is the maximum interpass temp on 304SS in a code I have to follow, and I'm pretty sure I've seen this range for carbon steels and even high-chrome steels in other codes.

Steve S

[Coldman]

Hey Steve,
I wanted to make a post but "sorry, board limit has been reached" is what I get when I try to upload pics.
Is there a fix for this?
Vic.

[Markus]

Hey Steve,
I wanted to make a post but "sorry, board limit has been reached" is what I get when I try to upload pics.
Is there a fix for this?
Vic.

I had the same problem too. Needed to upload pics onto FB.

Btw tes results came... Everything was OK

I did only three passes as solved the problem with undercut during welding. On the cap when walking I used 2T and always on the top of the bead I released button and started down slope. Let the puddle get little smaller and then slowly moved towards the center of the weld and then pressed all amps back to game.

[Coldman]

I don't do FB. Stuck.

[GreinTime]

I don't do FB. Stuck.

You can use Flickr as well. I would imagine that the board "memory" for lack of a simpler term has been filled, and can not allow any more pictures to be hosted. If you use an external site, you can just link the pictures rather than bed them in the post.

[Otto Nobedder]

I've e-mailed our webmaster. I do need to update him, as only two people had approached me, yet this is happening for almost everyone, all at once, which does not fit the way it was designed.

Steve S

[Coldman]

Thanks Steve. I look forward to the result.

Thanks Sam. Fyi, I don't do Flickr either nor tweet, instagram or any other stalking, mind numbing technology responsible for the destruction of our younger generation. Arrrrr!

I prefer VB.

[subwayrocket]

yep , it says "board quota has been met"

[rick9345]

I've e-mailed our webmaster. I do need to update him, as only two people had approached me, yet this is happening for almost everyone, all at once, which does not fit the way it was designed.

Steve S

welders mumble,grumble-"COMPLAIN!!"

[TamJeff]

Alternately, I use a photo hosting site. The one with the least amount of advertising wins for the moment. I used to use photobucket, until it got so laden with advertisement that it would freeze my somewhat antiquated desktop pc. So, now I use imgur.com, which also has some relatively simple editing and linking features, along with a generous amount of free storage space.

[raticus]

ok guys don't laugh too hard, I still suck at this! This is a gauge pod I've been building for my race car, I designed it to mount on my dash bar of my roll cage with the gauges set at 120 degrees facing me from the right about the middle of the car (my first TIG experience was this past winter when I decided to build up my 6-point roll bar (that was welded by a TIG friend of mine) to a full roll cage of my own welding that included the dash bar, which is a horizontal bar that sits (in my case) right in front of the dash (hence the name). My dash bar ended up blocking my gauges which were mounted before on the underside of my dash so I designed this gauge pod to mount on the dash bar (which is a 1.75" OD mild steel tube) via hose clamps wrapped around that 1.75" ID split aluminum 'tube' that you see welded to the gauge pod (I was going to fabricate an aluminum bolted split-collar to mount it, but I went with the hose clamp idea because I didn't want anything stick out out in the front of the dash bar... I can still go that route if I change my mind again). Once mounted, you won't see the aluminum split tube as it'll be hidden behind the dash bar, so you'll just see the gauge pod sitting on top and set back on the dash bar. Most race car dash bars are flush, or even under the dash, but where my cage uprights were on each side of the car, the dash bar ended up a good 4 inches from the dash, so I had lots of room to design the pod to place the gauges behind the dash bar (I'm keeping the underside and the back of the gauge pod wide open, so that I can service them easily).

Note my piss poor welds, I might grind them down on the front of the pod, but I think I'll just leave them alone... At least no one will think I bought it, it has the homemade look to it... lol. I also included a pic of the back side of it, showing an example of my horrible fillet welds, that I've been struggling with... a big ugly mess. Luckily it's on the back of the gauge pod so no one will laugh at me for that at least.

It's still not finished, I'm going to make small triangle pieces to fill in those gaps that you can see from the top of the aluminum split tube mount to the underside of the front of the gauge holes, and then it should be done. Was pretty complicated making the upright pieces to match the tube at an angle but I managed to pull it off ok.

Yeah I suck at welding, getting a little better each time at least. Actually it's more like, 2 steps forward, then 1 step back, then 1 step forward, then 2 steps back....

I'm also building an aluminum bike rack to fit on our daily driver's trunk (a '67 Dodge Coronet 4-dr). I had built one years ago MIG'd out of steel for my '77 Chevy Caprice that I used to have, but decided to go aluminum this time. I'm also building a toggle switch pod for the upper 'halo' bar on my roll cage. I'm gonna need a bigger bottle than my little 40, it's good for one sit down session and then it's gone, just have been too broke lately to buy a decent size bottle. Never enough money right?


May not be the best fabrication but at least it's different!


The horror! The horror! Yeah, my aluminum fillets suck.

[big gear head]

Stop beating yourself up. That's not bad.

[Rick_H]

I've seen a hell of a lot worse....time will take of those little things.

Now tell me about the car? I have a 91 Mustang GT with a sfi 25.5 spec chassis, 32v mod motor with a lil 98mm turbo:)

[raticus]

I've seen a hell of a lot worse....time will take of those little things.

Now tell me about the car? I have a 91 Mustang GT with a sfi 25.5 spec chassis, 32v mod motor with a lil 98mm turbo:)

thanks, just wish I had the energy after work every day to weld more, to practice more...

a little 98mm turbo? holy crap!... sounds like you're running some kind of outlaw class I'm guessing? mine is just a pump gas street/stripper bracket car that runs low 11's with a small block pushing 3800 lbs (a 66 Chevy Biscayne that I built from scratch, chassis, engine, etc., then stuck the old rusty body on it)... Switching to be a trailer queen now, with 4.86's and bias-ply DOT slicks, I'm tired of getting stuck on the side of the road cause of a light rain every time I try to get back from the track, so it's trailers for me from now on soon. Plus I don't want to run it on the street anymore, it's just killing the engine (a 406 Dart Little M, Pro1, Callies, Lunati, etc.) and especially the transmission, a 5600 stall 8" converter does not like summer heat and traffic... it's only an hour to the track but an hour is brutal on it. Always upgrading it. I built the motor for nitrous but have never sprayed it (it's got a direct port 170hp setup), gonna happen finally before the year is over if I can ever get back to the track (my tow vehicle truck's engine seized up on me... always something!), that should put me deep into the 10's. Had a set of 13 degree heads and a Toilet alcohol injection setup that was gonna go in this year to put me into the low 9's but had to sell it when I was out of work. Can always get it again, parts are just parts.

[Braehill]

raticus,
I take it that you run your car at Pittsburgh Raceway (Keystone Drag Strip for us old timers) in New Alex? I also live within an hour of there, and Rick can't live much more than an hour and a half from there.

Len

[raticus]

raticus,
I take it that you run your car at Pittsburgh Raceway (Keystone Drag Strip for us old timers) in New Alex? I also live within an hour of there, and Rick can't live much more than an hour and a half from there.

Len

yup! oh cool, yeah that's my track... I used to run the Street class but then moved up to the Mod class for 2014. This year has been a total bust for me though, was all psyched to start in April and then the truck engine ate itself and then other life hell kicked in so no racing this year (might get in some hopefully before the year is over)... Just had to keep saying to myself that it could be worse, could've upgraded the race car's engine over the winter and blew it up on the first day (it does happen)... that's my way of looking on the good side of things. I'm guessing you race too Braehill?

[Braehill]

Just a couple times to see how an old Mustang II would do and an old Regal that we put a junkyard 455 out of a Toranado in it. It's been well over 30 years though. My son (GreinTime) was just there a couple weeks ago. Too expensive of a hobby for me to get into. It's all fun if you have the time and money though.

Len

[subwayrocket]

Alternately, I use a photo hosting site. The one with the least amount of advertising wins for the moment. I used to use photobucket, until it got so laden with advertisement that it would freeze my somewhat antiquated desktop pc. So, now I use imgur.com, which also has some relatively simple editing and linking features, along with a generous amount of free storage space.

I thought it was just my computer . Photobucket was great, while it lasted ...it slows up my computer too