I do vintage vehicle restorations and I have been asked to repair an aluminum radiator shell for a 1928 Chevrolet passenger car. The aluminum is about .040" thick. Can you give me some tips on butt-welding this type of aluminum, I.E. type of shielding gas, rod, procedure, etc.?
Thanks!
dave powelson
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…….ummm…and you're certain that this shell is AL and not--SS?
I've done old Ford shells and they were SS.
I've done old Ford shells and they were SS.
- big gear head
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Without seeing what you are welding, I'm guessing that it's going to be hard to clean the back side of it. This is probably going to cause a lot of problems. An old radiator is going to have corrosion and lots of contamination in it.
Freddie
No question that this is aluminum. In 1928, Chevrolet made aluminum and steel grille shells, no SS that I am aware of. I can get to the backside for cleaning without a problem. The shell I have to work on needs some modification, so I'm going to have to cut and weld in several areas.
Also how much experience do you have welding alum?
I weld stainless, stainless and more stainless...Food Industry, sanitary process piping, vessels, whatever is needed, I like to make stuff.
ASME IX, AWS 17.1, D1.1
Instagram #RNHFAB
ASME IX, AWS 17.1, D1.1
Instagram #RNHFAB
I am using a Miller Syncrowave 250. I have quite a bit of experience in aluminum, and I have welded these radiator shells before, but I seem to struggle with it. Thicker aluminum is no problem for me. Should I use an Argon/Helium mix? I know it really needs to be cleaned well and possibly use a steel or copper backing. These shells really test my welding skills. I would really like to get a nice clean small bead with no sagging.
Thanks for all your replies!
Thanks for all your replies!
- LtBadd
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Argon/helium mix will add heat to the arc, you don't need that for such thin aluminumDRJ wrote:I am using a Miller Syncrowave 250. I have quite a bit of experience in aluminum, and I have welded these radiator shells before, but I seem to struggle with it. Thicker aluminum is no problem for me. Should I use an Argon/Helium mix? I know it really needs to be cleaned well and possibly use a steel or copper backing. These shells really test my welding skills. I would really like to get a nice clean small bead with no sagging.
Thanks for all your replies!
Richard
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dave powelson
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use an AL backer and let it be part of the shell, if at all possible.
A larger mass copper, etc. heat sink block will help--but you'll need to immediately
cool down with water spray and air blow off to stop distortion.
Pics would say much, as others have mentioned.
Need to find out at least the basic type of AL that was used-back then, for
good filler compatibility.
A larger mass copper, etc. heat sink block will help--but you'll need to immediately
cool down with water spray and air blow off to stop distortion.
Pics would say much, as others have mentioned.
Need to find out at least the basic type of AL that was used-back then, for
good filler compatibility.
dirtmidget33
- dirtmidget33
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Practice Welding aluminium cans together. Is great practice and material is easily found. Things go south on a can real quick so after you weld a few together it will make that cover seam like you are welding .125 instead of .040
I hope you are using a pedal will make life a lot easier.
I hope you are using a pedal will make life a lot easier.
why use standard nozzles after gas lens where invented. Kinda of like starting fires by rubbing sticks together.