Tig welding tips, questions, equipment, applications, instructions, techniques, tig welding machines, troubleshooting tig welding process
Goldhawg
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    Sat Dec 27, 2014 9:54 am
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    Dayton OH

I'm a newbie, and still practicing per Jody's direction on 5X5 aluminum plates. In one sense aluminum is harder because its so fast. But in another sense, I find it much easier. The puddle flows out so much easier, and the rod just melts into the puddle w/never any sticking. Steel on the other hand, the puddle kind of lags the arc, so you have to back up the torch to try and dab it in, and my rod always tries to stick. This results in a very uneven set of dimes cuz I'm pulling against it sticking. I'm running 1/8 plate steel, 125A and 3/32s rod. Should I use one size smaller rod to reduce the sticking? Other advice how to get that steel filler rod in there in and out w/o sticking?

Thanks
exnailpounder
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    Thu Dec 25, 2014 9:25 am
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    near Chicago

Two things will make your rod stick. Not enough amps and trying to add too much filler into the puddle. The filler rod cools the puddle as you are adding it. Add too much and it will cool it off and your rod will stick. It will re-melt and you can move on but I suspect that is what is causing your erratic bead. I would go down to 1/16" rod and try that. You can experiment and try jamming too much smaller rod into the puddle and you will get the same effect. Tig beads on steel are typically flat, unlike Mig and stick because the puddle will only take so much filler. You will get the feel for how much rod to add as you get better. You can still use your 3/32" rod but you just need to dip faster. Thats good to know when you have a weld to do and only have one size of filler rod.
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Rick_H
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    Sat Feb 08, 2014 1:50 pm
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    PA/MD

Dead on...either crank the amps up a little or try smaller filler.
I weld stainless, stainless and more stainless...Food Industry, sanitary process piping, vessels, whatever is needed, I like to make stuff.
ASME IX, AWS 17.1, D1.1
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