Welding Tips and Tricks

GreinTime wrote:

Rick_H wrote:

AFR_Autoworks wrote:How is 316 to weld? Much different then 304? Never done any 316. In my line of work I will likely never use it, 304 and 321 are all us car guys really use.

316 welds very similar to all of those, I've used 321 and 347 filler with headers in the past. The cage looks good, I'll have to dig up some pics from my 25.5 SFI chassis I put in my 91 Mustang GT. Funny I look at those welds now and say man I can do better.

With food stuff it is a lot of 316L and 304.

321 is so fucking expensive though.

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Yeah very expensive... Most won't spend the $$ on it, but it sure is pretty! Truth be told it was for an import..lol Last I bought it through SPD, I think Burns sells it also

Yes 321 is very pricey but is the best choice for any sort of turbo application where exhaust will be subject to allot of heat. If you have ever seen a turbo manifold on a 1000hp car, it gets pretty crazy haha.

AFR_Autoworks wrote:Yes 321 is very pricey but is the best choice for any sort of turbo application where exhaust will be subject to allot of heat. If you have ever seen a turbo manifold on a 1000hp car, it gets pretty crazy haha.

I understand that lol, but it is outside the budget realm for most people turboing their Honda Civic

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Aaron
just tried your setting..
worked well. I'm hooked...
for all the guys that don't weld every day
remember this "TIG FINGER"
just welded this today.
pencil mark was how far i got
before my hand was fried.
use the TIG finger...lol
craig

(The flower thing in its entirety)



(Grinded and ready to weld)



(Finished.)

G'day.

In amongst all the inspiring aerospace/automotive stuff on here, (which I absolutely love!) I like to post now and then to represent the noobs out there like me, who are still scratching their heads and banging rocks together.

Was given this very hipster lawn ornament/drink holder thing to fix. It's very old. The thin metal 'flower' had broken from the much thicker 'stem'. The brief was to fix it, make it sturdy, not do too much damage to 'vintage' paint.

Used 35 amps, very sharp 1.6mm electrode (2% Lanth) and 1.2mm ER316SL filler because it's the thinnest I have. Took it slow, lit up on the 'stem' and worked around. Stop. Cool. Clean. Weld. Only really took out a patch of paint the size of a 50 cent piece.

Now my hipster mate can enjoy Pickle Backs out on the lawn again...

Kym

Wanted to get more building done today, but email and phone calls had to take priority. At least I got half a bike done.


0210161113_HDR by Mike Zanconato, on Flickr


0210161112_HDR by Mike Zanconato, on Flickr


0210161113a_HDR by Mike Zanconato, on Flickr

Inspiring as always Mike - thanks for sharing.


Kym

Bike frame looks great! Any tips on welder settings?

Aaron@6061.com wrote:I chuck my tungsten in a handheld drill and spin it as slow as possible while grinding it to shape on a bench grinder with a 6" wheel.

Aaron do you use a standard Aluminum Oxide wheel or a diamond wheel? If a Diamond wheel what grit is it?

Thanks
Brian

Thanks guys!

Hollywood1 wrote:Bike frame looks great! Any tips on welder settings?

Torch is a CK20 with a gas lens and #8 cup. Gas at 15-20 cfh. 3/32" 2% lanthanated tungsten ground to a point.

Machine set at 210 amps EP, 180 amps EN, 65-75% EN balance, frequency at 120-150 Hz, soft square wave on EP and EN.

MosquitoMoto wrote:In amongst all the inspiring aerospace/automotive stuff on here, (which I absolutely love!) I like to post now and then to represent the noobs out there like me, who are still scratching their heads and banging rocks together.

Nice work Kym! Being a fellow noob I appreciate where you are coming from.

zank wrote:Wanted to get more building done today, but email and phone calls had to take priority. At least I got half a bike done.

As always, love your work Mike!


Flo

zank wrote:Thanks guys!

Hollywood1 wrote:Bike frame looks great! Any tips on welder settings?

Torch is a CK20 with a gas lens and #8 cup. Gas at 15-20 cfh. 3/32" 2% lanthanated tungsten ground to a point.

Machine set at 210 amps EP, 180 amps EN, 65-75% EN balance, frequency at 120-150 Hz, soft square wave on EP and EN.

What grade of aluminum are the frames, and what is the wall thickness?

Thanks

The tubing is 7005 aluminum. The head tube and threaded shell are 0.160" wall and the other tubes range from 0.052" - 0.078" wall.

Filler is 3/32" 5183.

zank wrote:The tubing is 7005 aluminum. The head tube and threaded shell are 0.160" wall and the other tubes range from 0.052" - 0.078" wall.

Filler is 3/32" 5183.

Thanks for the info. I am using the same torch with a gas lense. When I start practice on aluminum I'll have a place to start with settings.

Zank do you have to screw anything into your threaded tubes to keep them in round? Just wonder cause all your welding is on one side.

melsdad wrote:

Aaron@6061.com wrote:I chuck my tungsten in a handheld drill and spin it as slow as possible while grinding it to shape on a bench grinder with a 6" wheel.

Aaron do you use a standard Aluminum Oxide wheel or a diamond wheel? If a Diamond wheel what grit is it?

Thanks
Brian

100 grit 6" aluminum oxide

MosquitoMoto wrote:Beautiful work, Aaron.


Kym

Beautiful doesn't even begin to describe it....

Aaron@6061.com wrote:

melsdad wrote:

Aaron@6061.com wrote:I chuck my tungsten in a handheld drill and spin it as slow as possible while grinding it to shape on a bench grinder with a 6" wheel.

Aaron do you use a standard Aluminum Oxide wheel or a diamond wheel? If a Diamond wheel what grit is it?

Thanks
Brian

100 grit 6" aluminum oxide

Thanks Aaron!!

Brian

Another throttle body elbow (replaces the one in the background)

GM LS valve covers

Wow, that's some nice stuff.

So beautiful!

Aaron@6061.com wrote:Another throttle body elbow (replaces the one in the background)

GM LS valve covers

Nice looking weldments Aaron
The part pictured here, is this "as welded" or has there been some post weld treatment such as electropolishing?

1/2" 316L Sanitary piping, full pen, back purge, yadda, yadda

Aaron, beautiful, looks like a FORD

Nice, Rick!