The pneumatic mufflers are great for a diffuser, good work!mpete53 wrote:second flow meter off regulator with pipe fittings
second flow meter from Ebay
silicon vacuum hose from Ebay
bronze pneumatic mufflers off ebay
blue painters tape and a good fit up on the joint to seal tube ends and around purge hose with a slit in uppermost taped end. The hose was just stuck into the longer tube and taped closed. The argon hose has the bronze muffler on it to smooth the argon flow. Note there is a drilled hole in the longer tube that lets the argon flow out of it and fill the shorter tube where it vents out the slit in the tape on top
I thought that the tape would get to hot but that's what I had so I decided to give it a try. To my surprise the whole pipe stayed much cooler then when I hadn't purged and the tape held fine. No scorching, just the glue seemed to be less sticky when I took it off
Mark
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- LtBadd
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Just did this. It’s nothing glamorous, just a lowering of an existing plate by about 1” on the front end of a zero-turn mower, to enable it to accept a new placement for a battery there, which the blue body panel wouldn’t otherwise allow.
The plate and that little added flange aren’t intended to be at a true right-angle, as I was going for a wedge-like concept to stop any front or back battery movement, while having no flange/edge chafing at the battery wall, and to keep it clear of those two rectangular slots which have a rod that straddles them and allows the deck to ride upwards if it hangs up on either end. But the wedge idea also allows for a battery of a slightly larger dimension, just in case a future one is.
And I’ve been liking tarp straps to secure batteries and other stuff lately, so I kept that tool-free method in play too.
I’ll do some quick sanding and paint tomorrow.
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Peace be with you all,
Christian Livingstone
www.youtube.com/newjerusalemtimes
Everlast AC/DC 210EXT (2015)
CAT250D DC-TIG/Plasma Combo
Christian Livingstone
www.youtube.com/newjerusalemtimes
Everlast AC/DC 210EXT (2015)
CAT250D DC-TIG/Plasma Combo
This was today's 11ga SS job shop project. They bring me the laser cut parts and I fuse them. They get wire brushed before they are done.
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- MosquitoMoto
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Welcome Rudy.
I reckon that little lot would have kept you busy for awhile! Thanks for sharing.
Kym
I reckon that little lot would have kept you busy for awhile! Thanks for sharing.
Kym
Thank you, I just stumbled into this trying to learn about E3 tungsten and thought it could come in very handy.
Start to finish is about 3 hours, a good jig helps a lot. I do this job (110 pieces) about every 3 to 4 weeks.
Start to finish is about 3 hours, a good jig helps a lot. I do this job (110 pieces) about every 3 to 4 weeks.
exnailpounder
- exnailpounder
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Hey Rudyray...nice welding. I notice no obvious signs of cleaning the metal prior to welding. Is this for cosmetic reasons or just a time saver as you do so many? I have tried not cleaning SS and it welds like crap.
Ifyoucantellmewhatthissaysiwillbuyyouabeer.
Still practising and having fun Welding corners on 1" square tubing, testing different pulse settings on the Fronius. All welds at 80 amps. Top left corner is 1.000 HZ. Top right is 500 Hz. Bottom right is 100 Hz and finally bottom left is 1 Hz. For some reason I had to use filler on the 100 Hz weld. The rest is butt welded.
Sent from my Commodore 64
Sent from my Commodore 64
Sent from my Commodore 64
Thank you.exnailpounder wrote:Hey Rudyray...nice welding. I notice no obvious signs of cleaning the metal prior to welding. Is this for cosmetic reasons or just a time saver as you do so many? I have tried not cleaning SS and it welds like crap.
I can usually weld them as delivered from the customer, fresh off the laser. They will have a little soapy film on them sometimes that will turn slightly black. Without cleaning I'll have to sharpen (clean) the tungsten every 25 parts or 75" of weld. Cleaning the tungsten is faster than cleaning all the parts. After fuse welding I'll line them up on the table 16 wide (just under 60") lay a bar across the back side with 2 clamps, and run across the weld with a soft SS wire cup on the grinder to remove the color, flip and repeat. My customer throws them in a vibratory to clean and deburr before they ship them off.
All in all 110 parts takes 3 to 3.5 hours if I'm not interrupted any more than usual.
Here is this afternoons work, a cart for a local Armenian deli meat manufacturer and fixing a buddy's chair. Was quoting construction and chasing parts in the morning.
The stainless was filthy, it's been on the shelf for quite a while. I just buffed the area to be welded with the flap disk as I was deburring and called it good. I was out of acetone to clean everything first. All materials were rems from other jobs, I love selling the same piece of material twice.
The stainless was filthy, it's been on the shelf for quite a while. I just buffed the area to be welded with the flap disk as I was deburring and called it good. I was out of acetone to clean everything first. All materials were rems from other jobs, I love selling the same piece of material twice.
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exnailpounder
- exnailpounder
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exnailpounder wrote:Nice work and damned nice shop!
Thank you, I may not be Mr.T but "I pity the fool". I've been at it full time for 14 or 15 years now. First profession was test and R&D engineer, but me and the white collar world didn't get along, politics vs speak your mind. I'm not great at any one type of welding but I am good at all of them, except OA, no experience there. For a 1 man show I am over equipped, but that open doors, I can build darn near anything in my shop with no out sourcing. CNC plasma, CNC press brake, Iron Worker, Vert Band saw, hand tubing bender, welders of any type, and determination.
Mr. T, I cant even watch his vids, I don't care how good he is, I hate arrogance.
exnailpounder
- exnailpounder
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I hear you...Jody's way better ...and I bet he's fun to hang out with...Good people.Rudy Ray wrote:exnailpounder wrote:Nice work and damned nice shop!
Thank you, I may not be Mr.T but "I pity the fool". I've been at it full time for 14 or 15 years now. First profession was test and R&D engineer, but me and the white collar world didn't get along, politics vs speak your mind. I'm not great at any one type of welding but I am good at all of them, except OA, no experience there. For a 1 man show I am over equipped, but that open doors, I can build darn near anything in my shop with no out sourcing. CNC plasma, CNC press brake, Iron Worker, Vert Band saw, hand tubing bender, welders of any type, and determination.
Mr. T, I cant even watch his vids, I don't care how good he is, I hate arrogance.
Ifyoucantellmewhatthissaysiwillbuyyouabeer.
exnailpounder
- exnailpounder
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Ifyoucantellmewhatthissaysiwillbuyyouabeer.
I recently found out that my racecar fuel, ethanol, is corrosive to raw aluminum. I tried asking every anodizer within 100km if they could hard-anodize the inside of my surge tank and I had no luck, everyone who even does it told me I have to cut it apart (which is not true, a friend who hard anodizes his products told me the only trick is making sure you get all the air out which takes some care - too bad his anodizer is across the country). So, plan B, building it out of stainless. My first serious stainless project, putting my backpurge setup to the test.
I also got the gigantic gas saver lens from CK, and I set it to 25CFH as they recommend. Everything would go great but every now and then after doing a few runs, it would spatter like I'm out of Argon or there is something crazy blowing out of the weld. I first thought I don't have sufficient ventilation from inside the tank for the argon to come out but I eventually figured out that I'm cooking my tungsten. I never touched-down and it was turning dark blue with flakes on it. I turned up the postflow until it would return to silver post welding, and increased preflow. Ended up with 3s pre and 13s post and all was right in the world again.
Pretty happy with how it turned out, maybe won't even bother polishing it.
I also got the gigantic gas saver lens from CK, and I set it to 25CFH as they recommend. Everything would go great but every now and then after doing a few runs, it would spatter like I'm out of Argon or there is something crazy blowing out of the weld. I first thought I don't have sufficient ventilation from inside the tank for the argon to come out but I eventually figured out that I'm cooking my tungsten. I never touched-down and it was turning dark blue with flakes on it. I turned up the postflow until it would return to silver post welding, and increased preflow. Ended up with 3s pre and 13s post and all was right in the world again.
Pretty happy with how it turned out, maybe won't even bother polishing it.
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@Exy
Nice job on the guard. I found a bandsaw an excellent addition to the shop and use alot. You'll see.
I see you're getting ready to bbq. Very commendable.
Sent using Tapatalk
Nice job on the guard. I found a bandsaw an excellent addition to the shop and use alot. You'll see.
I see you're getting ready to bbq. Very commendable.
Sent using Tapatalk
Flat out like a lizard drinkin'
exnailpounder
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Thanks coldie...I fabbed up a little table so I could use it vertically and put a new blade on it and I can see it's going to come in handy. I had a gigantic bandsaw that I sold and I kinda regret selling it but it was way too big for my use. This little guy will see some use. I BBQ and smoke food all winter no matter how cold it is. The only way to cook.Coldman wrote:@Exy
Nice job on the guard. I found a bandsaw an excellent addition to the shop and use alot. You'll see.
I see you're getting ready to bbq. Very commendable.
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Ifyoucantellmewhatthissaysiwillbuyyouabeer.
Looks great. Is that 3003 or 6061 DP? .125 thick? Just curious. The 3003 welds up nice with 1100 filler.exnailpounder wrote:20170127_125303.jpgFabbed up an aluminum diamond plate belt cover to replace the shattered plastic one on my new to me band saw.
exnailpounder
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Looks great. Is that 3003 or 6061 DP? .125 thick? Just curious. The 3003 welds up nice with 1100 filler.[/quoteelectrode wrote:exnailpounder wrote:20170127_125303.jpgFabbed up an aluminum diamond plate belt cover to replace the shattered plastic one on my new to me band saw.
Pretty sure it's 3003, .125...it was a drop I got at ALRO. I used 4043...it's all I have. Tried using 2% lanthanated 1/16"...it split a couple times on me but I think I split it when I snapped it off but it did ok.
Ifyoucantellmewhatthissaysiwillbuyyouabeer.
exnailpounder wrote:exnailpounder wrote:20170127_125303.jpgFabbed up an aluminum diamond plate belt cover to replace the shattered plastic one on my new to me band saw.
electrode wrote:Looks great. Is that 3003 or 6061 DP? .125 thick? Just curious. The 3003 welds up nice with 1100 filler.
Yep, Lanthanated needs to be ground to cut it or it will splinter. Looks nice and will do the job. I wish I had a place to get drops besides ebay.Pretty sure it's 3003, .125...it was a drop I got at ALRO. I used 4043...it's all I have. Tried using 2% lanthanated 1/16"...it split a couple times on me but I think I split it when I snapped it off but it did ok.
exnailpounder
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This ALRO walk in metal store is awesome. They have tons of drops of anything you want and/or they will sell you as much or as little as you need. I bought some DP drops just because they were so cheap..I think my belt guard cost me about $5 in aluminum. They have big chunks of aluminum also. I bought a nice one for a chill bar. They have copper, bronze, all types of brass and aluminum bar for machining. Its a ride for me but worth it.
Ifyoucantellmewhatthissaysiwillbuyyouabeer.
- LtBadd
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Check the box stores (HD, Lowes) prices on DP, it is insane $$$$exnailpounder wrote:This ALRO walk in metal store is awesome. They have tons of drops of anything you want and/or they will sell you as much or as little as you need.
I bought some DP drops just because they were so cheap..I think my belt guard cost me about $5 in aluminum.
They have big chunks of aluminum also. I bought a nice one for a chill bar. They have copper, bronze, all types of brass and aluminum bar for machining. Its a ride for me but worth it.
Richard
Website
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After talking to Borg Warner engineers at PRI, they told me that the recirc valve in the EFR turbos is part of the recipe for the lightning fast transient response (only needing to repressurize the compressor cover, not the entire intake), so I'm putting it back in and needed to delete the blowoff valve. My first time doing aluminum piping, was fun to figure out the angle to cut out of the 45 elbow but turned out pretty well. Also my first time using 4943... suffice it to say that I'll never use anything else except for when required for a specific application.
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