[soutthpaw]

So honestly, after a year, how many of those advanced features of the Dynasty do you use?

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All of them. But to be fair, I'm a nerd. I started cranking settings one way of the other as soon as I was able to do basic beads. Now, how much benefit I've seen out of them is a different matter. It wasn't until I became good enough at the basics that the features started to make a difference. It's like with racecars - if you're not driving what you currently have at 10/10ths, you can't really say if a car mod made the car faster or you just now suck less. But I can now honestly say I've had a use for all of the features, some of them I feel allowing me to do things that I don't think I could do on a lesser machine, like my 040 alu project.

Now I have the independent AC card on the way and I can't wait to mess with that

cool, I used to be that way. Now i tend to set it and forget it. Share some of your settings that worked

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[GreinTime]

One of my favorite pulse settings for 16ga and thinner to thick, typically 11ga, is 1.5/s, 20% on time, 5% BKGCR. Allows you to place the next flash where you want it. Works pretty slick.

Aluminum, I'll typically run 275EN/350EP (we have 350's at work) any where from 70-90%EN depending on cleanliness of the part, and any where from 20-120hz. I don't weld any of our thinner aluminum, but one of the other guys does a lot of stuff at 2-400hz depending on what he's doing.

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[BigD]

cool, I used to be that way. Now i tend to set it and forget it. Share some of your settings that worked

Composed with Swype on mobile. not responsible for typos.

The biggest one has been pulsing with a low DC and low background current (like 30 and 5) for thin aluminum (040 wall), and higher frequency... I used 150pps. It works so well I can not only tack easily but I can run the full joint without filler, then turn the pulse off and go over it again with filler, making a normally difficult job pretty darn easy. I think the same trick will work on DC too for really thin stuff.

The 2T and 4T settings are a dream for using a switch. I've developed my own acrobatics for using a pedal in various contorted positions, and having a wireless one sure makes life easier. But after enough joints on my roll cage while hanging upside down or having my back support my entire body weight across a pipe, having to also work a pedal somehow, be it under my armpit or between my knees, got old real fast. So I rigged up a switch from cheap parts (most expensive one being a Miller compatible connector for like 20 bucks, everything else was under 5 incl zip ties), turned on the 2T with 1s up and 2 down, and even when the current was too high I could just pulse the switch and it kept the temperature down. When things got really awkward where even holding the switch became annoying (so contorted with poor motor control that tapping the switch results in touchdown), 4T to the rescue.

The waveforms make a big difference, I only use triangle for thin aluminum, adv square for inside T corners on thicker stuff.

I've found that the AC frequency can help a lot with multiple passes. I initially had a hard time with multiple passes with aluminum because it just wanted to fill the whole groove right away and not stay in the root. I would jack it to 400hz and it stayed tight and deep. Then down to 120 for the cover passes. I can't do the higher frequencies, 200 and up, without ear plugs though. I start making mistakes because I can't focus from the assault on my hearing.

I've tried using low pulse frequencies for ease of rhythm but I find it distracting more than anything. It's probably mainly my fault but sometimes my hand or filler rod will snag something, or misfire while moving the rod down my hand and I need to adjust my travel speed while I correct. Maybe if I had a positioner and had lots of pipe work to do, I could see it being useful then.