[Oscar]

What waveform is being used? Does that HTP offer options on that?

The 221 only has square-wave for AC.

[TraditionalToolworks]

The 221 only has square-wave for AC.

Seems square wave is pretty standard, even my Primeweld has it. In fact I think any welders that allow you to adjust the EN/EP ratios have square wave.

Spartan was probably asking as some of the Everlast machines have triangle wave also, I believe. Maybe he'll comment.

[DougW]

This is the results of 180 amp / 200 freq / 75 balance/ 15 CFH argon @ 3 seconds
My cheap o'l temp gun showed the pieces ~160 degrees

20200515_140318 by Doug Wei, on Flickr

That just doesn't seem right to me. The few times I TIG'd 1/8", I'm 99.9% positive it did just fine with that similar level amperage on the same exact machine. Are you saying you completely mashed the pedal all the way down, at 180A, and you obtained that small puddle that took 3 seconds (roughly)?

Yes, I made sure the foot pedal was fully depressed

I actually got swamped with work today, so I won't be able to recreate a similar joint until tomorrow.

No problem... I too had to turn my attention else where.

In the meantime, can you hold your tig torch in the same exact orientation with the same exact distance you are keeping the tungsten from the joint? See picture below. Please indicate what size tungsten you are using/in the picture. 3/32" E3/Purple. I bumped the stick out up just a tad to 1/4" and raised the argon flow to ~25CFH. It's a #6 cup

Also, have you changed the independent amplitude settings on the machine?
I did the first day I got the welder and it didn't take me long to figure out I didn't know what I was doing so I reverted back to simple AC balance control. I'm assuming you're referring to the ability to independently set the DCEN and DCEP values

Since you only have an air-cooled torch. I suspect that is the reason you have not attempted higher amperage(?)
You know... I'm not sure why I haven't tried a higher amperage. Part of it is because I simply feel that it should not take that much amperage to weld 1/8" aluminum. Heat at the torch has nothing to do with it.

This is the best I could do. Kinna hard to hold the phone and push the shutter button with one hand. The torch is angled just a bit more that what it is when I'm welding. I did that so you could at least sorta see the relationship between the electrode and the work piece.

I understand why y'all seem to think the problem is being caused by long arcing. Looking at the 3 second arc showing the pooling or lack there of one could be lead to believe that long arcing created the two arc burns. The fact of the matter is I first focused the arc on the vertical piece until I saw the tiniest evidence of pooling then redirected the ark to the horizontal piece that looks more like evidence of long arcing. While performing that I was doing the long count "one thousand one... one thousand two... one thousand three..."

The width of the bead is influenced by the fact that I'm more or less walking the pool with torch movement. As stated 200 Hz creates a pretty narrow bead so I'm having to work a little to get the fillet filled w/1/16" filler rod. And... because I'm having to work the pool to that degree I'm creating too much heat. Rest assured I'm getting penetration. I agree, a lower frequency will probably suit my needs better and will try that once I get the welder fired up.

I just looked at that 3 second attempt to start a pool photo. Yup, it absolutely appears to be long arcing. I will also try that again at the same settings just to see. I'm using a #6 cup. The electrode, it that photo, was extended such that I could stick the cup in the corner and the electrode would just clear the work pieces. At that setting I can not see the electrode when welding.

20200515_140513 by Doug Wei, on Flickr

As you can see... this is 1/4" stick out. With this amount of stick out I did up the argon flow to ~25 CFH.

20200515_085603 by Doug Wei, on Flickr

20200515_085544 by Doug Wei, on Flickr

[BillE.Dee]

didn't I read somewhere ... the feed wiring for the welder was not right?? Only getting 110 instead of the full 220? You still get the adjustments, but not quite right. Could this be happening in this case? I would imagine that machine being set for 150, he should be making a heckova puddle in short order? It just seems that all other avenues have been touched on.
gramps

[cj737]

With a #6 cup, you don’t need 25CFH. You’re wasting gas. Make it 12-15CFH maximum. Also, if there’s a collet body under that cup and not a gas lens, get a proper gas lens. A #6 cup is the edge between using a fillet body, and needing a gas lens. The turbulence of the shielding gas gets winky with 25CFH and a collet body. This is not your problem, but another variable.

When you power your machine up, does it register that you are souring 120 or 240v? If Bill is correct and you’re only seeing120v to the machine, that probably probably explains a lot.

And thanks for the clarification on your puddle weave/bead size.

[DougW]

With a #6 cup, you don’t need 25CFH. You’re wasting gas. Make it 12-15CFH maximum. Also, if there’s a collet body under that cup and not a gas lens, get a proper gas lens. A #6 cup is the edge between using a fillet body, and needing a gas lens. The turbulence of the shielding gas gets winky with 25CFH and a collet body. This is not your problem, but another variable.I'm only using a #6 cup w/collet because I broke the #5 cup that came with the welder. More are on the way but not here yet. I bumped the CFH up to 25 because I went to ~1/2" stick out in an attempt to address the possible long arc condition. Most of the welds I've posted pictures of are with the CFH @~15. I'm trying to do what Justin w/TFS suggested. "Learn to weld with standard consumables." I'm including cup size/type in that statement. I'm wanting to avoid using a 'crutch' while learning. How'eva'... that said if what I'm using simply isn't suitable for the task at hand using what is suitable/'required doesn't qualify as a 'Crutch'.

When you power your machine up, does it register that you are souring 120 or 240v? If Bill is correct and you’re only seeing120v to the machine, that probably probably explains a lot.

This is not a dual voltage welder. I could find nothing no source voltage indicator. I'm using a 50' 6ga extension cord that I made. The cord is not the problem. I also unplugged the welder and confirmed voltage at the plug, on the extension cord. ~ 124v each power leg and ~248v across them.

And thanks for the clarification on your puddle weave/bead size.

Your welcome...

This is some stuff I was diddlin' with just to practice in between getting frustrated with the fillet welding. What I'm addressing here is the edge welding. This was done with the current 200a 200f settings the other welds were done 2-4 days ago.


These were also done earlier in the week at different settings which are noted on the pieces...

[DougW]

OK.... final report. Well I may come back and post some pictures...

I appears that cj737 hit the nail on the head. As I started dialing back the frequency from 200Hz to 100Hz pooling the initial fillet got easier and easier. And the welds started looking a bit better as well. So last weld was 180amp x 100Hz en65. I cut back on the argon flow to ~12 CFH. Electrode stick out is ~ 1/4". That's about the least amount of stick out I can accommodate and still be able to see the tip of the electrode due to near 90 degree torch angle..

As an aside.... Yesterday I did try preheating the pieces. Preheated to 200 degrees also solved the initial pooling problem but... Like was said earlier in this thread. Shouldn't need to preheat 1/8" aluminum.

I'm pretty sure I can also cut back on the initial amps currently set @ 180 just to keep from having to pedal so much - we'll see.

Thanks to all that contributed to this thread. If anyone ever needs help on how not to weld aluminum I'M YOUR GUY! ask away!!!

[cj737]

Looks much better. Bump the amps to 200 and weld. Learn to use the pedal to manage your puddle.

[DougW]

Looks much better. Bump the amps to 200 and weld. Learn to use the pedal to manage your puddle.

Thanks...

These welds were done @ 170A and 90F 65B 12CFH. 200 amps sounds good. I tried doing these same welds @160A and starting was a bit problematic and I was pretty much full pedal all the time..

These are all 4 sides of the cube...

20200516_091733 by Doug Wei, on Flickr

20200516_091726 by Doug Wei, on Flickr


20200516_091712 by Doug Wei, on Flickr

Then I was just messing around practicing pool control filling in a saw kerf...

20200516_090909 by Doug Wei, on Flickr

20200516_091020 by Doug Wei, on Flickr

[Oscar]

I did the first day I got the welder and it didn't take me long to figure out I didn't know what I was doing so I reverted back to simple AC balance control. I'm assuming you're referring to the ability to independently set the DCEN and DCEP values[/color]

Yes, that is what I'm referring to. When you did these welds, the little green light for AC light was blinking?

[DougW]

I did the first day I got the welder and it didn't take me long to figure out I didn't know what I was doing so I reverted back to simple AC balance control. I'm assuming you're referring to the ability to independently set the DCEN and DCEP values[/color]

Yes, that is what I'm referring to. When you did these welds, the little green light for AC light was blinking?

Yes, they were blinking. But... was that ACEN and ACEP ???? Nah, I ain't clueless....

[Oscar]

I did the first day I got the welder and it didn't take me long to figure out I didn't know what I was doing so I reverted back to simple AC balance control. I'm assuming you're referring to the ability to independently set the DCEN and DCEP values[/color]

Yes, that is what I'm referring to. When you did these welds, the little green light for AC light was blinking?

Yes, they were blinking. But... was that ACEN and ACEP ???? Nah, I ain't clueless....

The one I mean specifically is the one right above the "AC mode" button, below where it says "AC on". Was that one blinking when you did these welds?

[Oscar]

Replicating Doug's set-up almost exactly. I need to see where my memory failed me!










Setting up the camera! No mercy on General Zod!

I have to cut up some flat bar though, as those pieces aren't 0.125", they're a bit thinner, so those will not work.

[DougW]

Yes, that is what I'm referring to. When you did these welds, the little green light for AC light was blinking?
The one I mean specifically is the one right above the "AC mode" button, below where it says "AC on". Was that one blinking when you did these welds?

I'm aware of which "flashing light" you're referring to. No it wasn't blinking when these welds were made.

[DougW]

Replicating Doug's set-up almost exactly. I need to see where my memory failed me!










Setting up the camera! No mercy on General Zod!

I have to cut up some flat bar though, as those pieces aren't 0.125", they're a bit thinner, so those will not work.

One small problem... This problem only appeared for me when trying to start the first weld on 1/8" wall square tubing. I had no problem, other'n beginner things, welding flat stock and angle stock 1/8" thick.

I had .3 sec. pre-flow and 4.0 sec. post flow. And I've been anywhere from 65 to 85 EN on balance.

[Oscar]

One small problem... This problem only appeared for me when trying to start the first weld on 1/8" wall square tubing. I had no problem, other'n beginner things, welding flat stock and angle stock 1/8" thick.

I had .3 sec. pre-flow and 4.0 sec. post flow. And I've been anywhere from 65 to 85 EN on balance.

No problem. I was going to setup that flat stock to replicate a corner of the square tube atop a flat piece of 1/8" to recreate that specific fillet joint, because I don't have sq tube on-hand.

[DougW]

Got'cha'!

[Oscar]

One outside corner. Came out a little dirty as I suspected since I did have it at 80%EN and the base metal I cleaned just a little bit, but this is a quick-n-dirty test anyways.



Gonna let it cool off ice-cold as I have lunch, and then I will attempt to tack it up to the othe 1/8" flat bar.

[DougW]

Had one of those 'Ahhh Haaa' moments.

At times, when I'm on a roll, I can weld 4 fillets welds that actually come out pretty good. First one starts good and the other three are even a bit better - most of the time. Then....

I set up to do the next one and the first weld, on cold metal, pukes.... I mean it looks nasty. It starts bad and ends bad. I have blisters on my head from scracthin' it wondering what happened! Why? Well after pretty near a week of this I happened up on what I hope is the cause of the inconsistency.

I use a TechSouth - PowerPoint Tungsten grinder. It puts a really... really... sharp point on it. 15 degrees - I think. And that's what I run with. When I first started I put a ball on a few ov'em and couldn't really tell the difference running flat beads and/or lap beads. Wasn't no big deal.

But just awhile ago I was back to scratchin' the o'l noggin'. Welds going belly up, blowing holes in the tube, chasing the bead... WTH????

Then... I look at my electrode point. It now has a ball on it cause I've completed a number of welds. But... that ball came off the sharp tip and in doing so it effectively shortened the stick out by 1/8". Again... on flat stock and the like I could adjust and just move the cup closer to compensate for it. And was doing it sub-consciously. When I'm doing the fillet welds the #6 cup prevents me from getting closer. Net results - long arcing. Not by much but enough to keep me from focusing the arc where it needed to be. It would wander to the vertical side(square tube) and blow a hole in it. Then it'd wander down on the plate and start welding flat for awhile... a mess. Anywhohow... I think, in the future, especially with fillet welds, I'll start putting a ball on the tip before I set the electrode stick out!

Freshly ground electrode:
Note: If you will double click on the photo. It will take you to my flickr account. Then if you will click on the photo again it will zoom in. It's especially telling when you get to the comparison photos.

20200516_153145 by Doug Wei, on Flickr

After welding 4 sides on 2" square tubing. 8"

20200516_153200 by Doug Wei, on Flickr

And the difference between the two...

20200516_155037 by Doug Wei, on Flickr

[Oscar]

I had kind of suspected that to play a part, but it's hard to see without being there.

[Oscar]

I recreated the part, sort of, and yeap my memory failed me, lol. It wasn't 200Hz, it was 200A! It took that much amperage at that high of a frequency to get a puddle established.




Sorry for misleading you Doug! I'll be more careful!

[v5cvbb]

I don't care for tungsten that sharp? I use a steeper angle and have been blunting the tips lately. I seem to dip my tungsten less for some reason. It's likely because I don't have the best of control.

I'm on my first bottle of argon so I'm still very new at Tig. Not offering advice, just my observation. I'm just trying to learn.

[tweake]

20200516_153145 by Doug Wei, on Flickr

After welding 4 sides on 2" square tubing. 8"

20200516_153200 by Doug Wei, on Flickr

And the difference between the two...

20200516_155037 by Doug Wei, on Flickr

this is why i don't do fine taper and sharp points for aluminium.
firstly you want a blunt taper to get more amps onto the metal. fine taper spreads it wide, blunt focus it.
the tip want to be blunt or cut off. you can see what happens to a fine sharp tip, it simply balls up. but you run the risk of screwing up your arc length because the point is moving back and that you may get tungsten in the weld.

to me, how the tungsten looks after welding is what you should grind it to.
downside to that is you loose nice fine precision for doing tacks.

[DougW]

I recreated the part, sort of, and yeap my memory failed me, lol. It wasn't 200Hz, it was 200A! It took that much amperage at that high of a frequency to get a puddle established.




Sorry for misleading you Doug! I'll be more careful!

Ain't no big'ol deal. I learned some things along the way so it all good!

I don't care for tungsten that sharp? I use a steeper angle and have been blunting the tips lately. I seem to dip my tungsten less for some reason. It's likely because I don't have the best of control.

I'm on my first bottle of argon so I'm still very new at Tig. Not offering advice, just my observation. I'm just trying to learn.

I've tried blunting the tip, balling the tip and just running with the high angle sharp tip. The tip doesn't stay sharp long anyway so that's like a non-issue to me. I actually have trouble telling the difference in performance between any of them. Now that I'm stating to figure out settings do matter maybe I can start focusing on tip stickout and shape. For some reason I got the idea that less stick out was better so I've been tying to have minimal stickout. As stated earlier on virtually every weld but a fillet minimal stick out doesn't hurt anything. But minimal stickout relative to a fillet weld can be a recipe for a really bad weld.

[DougW]

I recreated the part, sort of, and yeap my memory failed me, lol. It wasn't 200Hz, it was 200A! It took that much amperage at that high of a frequency to get a puddle established.




Sorry for misleading you Doug! I'll be more careful!

Ain't no big'ol deal. I learned some things along the way so it all good!

I don't care for tungsten that sharp? I use a steeper angle and have been blunting the tips lately. I seem to dip my tungsten less for some reason. It's likely because I don't have the best of control.

I'm on my first bottle of argon so I'm still very new at Tig. Not offering advice, just my observation. I'm just trying to learn.

I've tried blunting the tip, balling the tip and just running with the high angle sharp tip. The tip doesn't stay sharp long anyway so that's like a non-issue to me. I actually have trouble telling the difference in performance between any of them. Now that I'm stating to figure out settings do matter maybe I can start focusing on tip stickout and shape. For some reason I got the idea that less stick out was better so I've been tying to have minimal stickout. As stated earlier on virtually every weld but a fillet minimal stick out doesn't hurt anything. But minimal stickout relative to a fillet weld can be a recipe for a really bad weld.