Welding Tips and Tricks

Saturday job putting in this 5" sched40 crossover. Took me 15 hours including pumpout and re-start. Was a tied joker at the end of the day but still made it out for oysters, steak and beer at about 9pm. The first beer was for my good mate Exie!!

As a point of interest, the elbow on the right is of chinese manufacture. Supposed to be sched40 but actual wall thickness was between sched 40 & 80! And the big thing is that it wasn't 90* !!! What's up with that? You can see the 5G butt is alot wider than the 2G butt, that's because I tacked it on the outside 2.4mm gap (3/32") and had about 8.5mm (11/32") gap to fill on the inside to square it up. Beware crap from China!

Coldman wrote:
Saturday job putting in this 5" sched40 crossover. Took me 15 hours including pumpout and re-start. Was a tied joker at the end of the day but still made it out for oysters, steak and beer at about 9pm. The first beer was for my good mate Exie!!

As a point of interest, the elbow on the right is of chinese manufacture. Supposed to be sched40 but actual wall thickness was between sched 40 & 80! And the big thing is that it wasn't 90* !!! What's up with that? You can see the 5G butt is alot wider than the 2G butt, that's because I tacked it on the outside 2.4mm gap (3/32") and had about 8.5mm (11/32") gap to fill on the inside to square it up. Beware crap from China!

I know what you mean about the 90's, we did a lot of 316 pipe work and the elbows were pretty good, got into some duplex and the material seemed really thick for schedule 40, nice looking work there!

That's a big problem here too. I've had fittings so bad that it's like welding togeather different diameter pipe. Or there not round. That sucks when you have to clock a fitting in a certain position but the one you are up against is out of round in a different direction than the other.

I've been slack and haven't posted much lately.

Getting lots of little jobs now for my motorcycle racing mates. Below is a battery/electrics box for a race bike. Made with 3mm scrap aluminium, filler is 2mm 5356.

Not weldporn by any means, but finding that 1 pps gives me that 'metronome' I need to make my beads reasonably even.

Moz

MosquitoMoto wrote:I've been slack and haven't posted much lately.

Getting lots of little jobs now for my motorcycle racing mates. Below is a battery/electrics box for a race bike. Made with 3mm scrap aluminium, filler is 2mm 5356.

Not weldporn by any means, but finding that 1 pps gives me that 'metronome' I need to make my beads reasonably even.

Moz

Hey Kym, nice small fab work there, good to see ya again

LtBadd wrote:

MosquitoMoto wrote:I've been slack and haven't posted much lately.

Getting lots of little jobs now for my motorcycle racing mates. Below is a battery/electrics box for a race bike. Made with 3mm scrap aluminium, filler is 2mm 5356.

Not weldporn by any means, but finding that 1 pps gives me that 'metronome' I need to make my beads reasonably even.

Moz

Hey Kym, nice small fab work there, good to see ya again

Thanks so much Richard.

One of the great pleasures of welding is to be useful enough to help your friends out.



Moz

Woo hoo! Passed the weld test for my R stamp! First project is on Friday. Chasing cracks on the tube sheet on an old steam boiler. I'll try to post some pics.

Poland308 wrote:Woo hoo! Passed the weld test for my R stamp! First project is on Friday. Chasing cracks on the tube sheet on an old steam boiler. I'll try to post some pics.

Congrats Josh, I'm sure it's well deserved!

LtBadd wrote:

Poland308 wrote:Woo hoo! Passed the weld test for my R stamp! First project is on Friday. Chasing cracks on the tube sheet on an old steam boiler. I'll try to post some pics.

Congrats Josh, I'm sure it's well deserved!

Amen, and well done!

I've passed my IX qual, and qualified some procedures. We're still waiting on the NB audit to give us our "R" stamp. Coming soon, to a theater near you.

Also, I now have to qualify on aluminum for a particular repair (and write a procedure, and qualify it)... Damn it!

Steve

It seems there's no end ever in sight. But people with goals live longer. So it evens out.

Congrats poland308 on making a test! Iv done my fair share of r stamp work and I'm always amazed on how much paper is involved.

Picked this little job up yesterday. Delivered today. Everything went just as planned which was nice since it usually doesn't go that way for me. Especially on aluminum. It was very dirty and oily but it cleaned up good. It's an oil pan for chevy aveo. I didn't think to grind off the weld where the plug goes back in but the mechanic said it was fine. Had a little porosity at the starts but after I ground it out the next weld was fine.

Tig/stick 14" pipe tie-ins took a picture just off the bottom .

Bingo wrote:Tig/stick 14" pipe tie-ins took a picture just off the bottom .

That looks nice, way to get it done

thank you sir.A blind squirrel finds a nut every once in a while !

First bends with the new bender!

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I've seen those benders on CL and thought they looked real good for the money. How are they?

What brand bender is that?

GreinTime wrote:First bends with the new bender!

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Interesting bender! Ive got some questions haha

What's the brand?
Price?
180 dies?
Where to find?


Those bends look nice I don't see any kinks.

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5th Street Fab wrote:

GreinTime wrote:First bends with the new bender!

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Interesting bender! Ive got some questions haha

What's the brand?
Price?
180 dies?
Where to find?


Those bends look nice I don't see any kinks.

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I sent you a DM on Instagram with my phone number so you can ask any specific questions you have about the bender, or anything else for that matter.

In order:

RogueFab M600 Tradesmen Set. Typically comes with 1x3.5, 1.25x4.5, 1.5x4.5, 1.75x6, and 2x6 dies. I swapped the 2x6 for the 1.625x6 as I don't feel that we (business partner and I) need at this point. If someone wants anything that big bent, the price of the die will be added to the price of the job.

Price: With roller pressure dies, which are 360 aluminum rollers with the matching tube size that the tube rests on as it pulls through the bender instead of a block with the radius milled in it. Cuts down on friction, allows you to bend stainless or aluminum without scratching it, things like that. Price was $1875, with shipping to my area it was $1987. I believe they are in Oregon actually, so you'd be able to pick it up locally and save some cash. **Also, this was the weld together kit, I'll get it powder coated locally.

Degree: If you could split the die in half on the centerline, you could bend 360. The dies are full diameter of die radius, with the tube profile cut in. Anything over 180 though you'd get stuck.

Where to find: https://www.roguefab.com/product-catego ... g-benders/

I bought the cylinder from Harbor Freight locally to save more money on shipping.

Bend quality is good as you can see. That was 1.5x.120, and bent great. I don't have the degree sticker on there, as I have to get it powder coated yet, but it seems that 0-~90° was one full stroke of the ram. I didn't repin to try and bend any farther, but that was 49 seconds or so with stopping once or twice to check things. The biggest selling point in my mind is that you can bend up to 1.5 solid bar with the HD kit, up to 0.250 wall 1.75, and up to 0.188 wall 2.0.

It's a little awkward to change dies, but it was the first time trying it, it should get easier from there.

I will keep everyone posted, I have a tube front on an S13 Nissan 240sx hatchback to do first, followed by an FD Mazda RX7 (1993 for you old folks who don't know chassis codes) and an 80's AE86 Corolla, back when they were RWD and cool [FACE WITH TEARS OF JOY] So I should be putting it through it's paces pretty quickly.


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Just mucking around with some outside corner joints on 16ga stainless.. I experimented using pulse, as well as filler and no filler joints. All joints were welded with a 3/32" 2% Lanthanated Tungsten, Furick Fupa 12 with aluminium angle for backing. I had 100 amps set on the machine but didn't go anywhere near that..I think I had about 12LPM argon flow.

No pulse, 1/16" 308L filler:




1pps, 100 amps, 30% peak current and 20% background current, 1/16" 308L filler:




Same settings as above sans filler:






I only ran 6 coupons but I can definitely see the benefit that using a smaller diameter tungsten and filler would have on thin material.

Flo

OzFlo wrote:Just mucking around with some outside corner joints on 16ga stainless.. I experimented using pulse, as well as filler and no filler joints. All joints were welded with a 3/32" 2% Lanthanated Tungsten, Furick Fupa 12 with aluminium angle for backing. I had 100 amps set on the machine but didn't go anywhere near that..I think I had about 12LPM argon flow.

I only ran 6 coupons but I can definitely see the benefit that using a smaller diameter tungsten and filler would have on thin material.

Flo

way to lay it down Flo, very nice

LtBadd wrote: way to lay it down Flo, very nice

Thanks Richard. This is the same material that I'm going to build my water cooler reservoir from so I want to get some good practice before attempting to weld that up. I didn't use any chill bars on the face side of the material when I welded those coupons but definitely will be when I attempt the real thing.

Flo

OzFlo wrote: Thanks Richard. This is the same material that I'm going to build my water cooler reservoir from so I want to get some good practice before attempting to weld that up. I didn't use any chill bars on the face side of the material when I welded those coupons but definitely will be when I attempt the real thing.

Flo

Make sure to document your build, we'll all benefit from it

Nice job Flo