Welding Tips and Tricks

I've had one for a month now. Works beautiful on DC.
I initially tried AC to to ensure it worked, but didnt wring it out.
The last 2 days trying to run beads on Alu, having a hard time.
You know the "wet fart" sound during arc initiation and tapering off?
I does that all the time, while having a wandering arc issue, sometimes even
seems to be arcing off the cup. Also, it doesn't always initiate the arc, takes 2 or 3 tries
or, if I touch the electrode to the metal then hit the pedal, it will start. I'm not touching the metal while pedaling,
but before, kinda like discharging something.
I've reads several things about the HF points/gap that says it may be that. The manual doesn't mention any setting
so unless someone here is in the know, I'll be calling AHP for info.
Particulars:
3/32 lantenated tungsten, tried 3 new sticks to ensure no contamination
New cups, collet body and collet, tried gas lens set up,
metal is 1 inch chunks of angle aluminum, acetone, scrub clean and acetone again.
tried argon flow from 10-30 CFH, no cables run around /beside each other,
foot pedal control,
broad spectrum of settings for frequency, balance, etc.
I can change the way it acts but not eliminate it

Thoughts?
Again, it welds on DC/steel without issue

""metal is 1 inch chunks of angle iron""


This could get interesting "I read AC on steel is that correct?"

I used to have this issue every time when I first started on AL. It all seemed to be relative to my tungsten especially when I was arc'in to the cup. It happens EVERYTIME I had a flat spot on my tungsten.

How are you grinding your tungsten?

You MUST keep the tungsten steady, with a smooth even twist as you grind it around. If you need to pause to adjust so you can continue twisting immediately take the tungsten off the grinder in a continued twisting motion, do NOT stop on the wheel then lift off or you'll have a flat spot every time.
If you walk the tungsten off the grinder, same story, continue grinding. Pointing the tungsten slightly towards the inside of the wheel helps me out a lot to prevent walking off the wheel.

Hopefully you're using a bench grinder but if you're using some cut off wheel for a Dremel then you're going to find it really hard to keep things steady since you have to keep the tool steady and the electrode vs. a bench grinder, it's just the tungsten.

Set the arc gap between .021-.023. 5.5mm socket finger tight on the pints is all you need. Not uncommon to find the pints not perfectly squared up to each other from the factory.

rick9345 wrote:""metal is 1 inch chunks of angle iron""


This could get interesting "I read AC on steel is that correct?"

Corrected wise apple, its aluminum

soutthpaw wrote:Set the arc gap between .021-.023. 5.5mm socket finger tight on the pints is all you need. Not uncommon to find the pints not perfectly squared up to each other from the factory.

Thank you, is that an AHP spec or "general"? I've read/watched where some of the Miller machines have a sweet spot that needs to be snuck up on? Wonder if AHP is the same?

Jim FLinchbaugh wrote:

soutthpaw wrote:Set the arc gap between .021-.023. 5.5mm socket finger tight on the pints is all you need. Not uncommon to find the pints not perfectly squared up to each other from the factory.

Thank you, is that an AHP spec or "general"? I've read/watched where some of the Miller machines have a sweet spot that needs to be snuck up on? Wonder if AHP is the same?

That is what AHP has found works well from the repair center. I've set a couple that way and they seem to work well.

soutthpaw wrote:

Jim FLinchbaugh wrote:

soutthpaw wrote:Set the arc gap between .021-.023. 5.5mm socket finger tight on the pints is all you need. Not uncommon to find the pints not perfectly squared up to each other from the factory.

Thank you, is that an AHP spec or "general"? I've read/watched where some of the Miller machines have a sweet spot that needs to be snuck up on? Wonder if AHP is the same?

That is what AHP has found works well from the repair center. I've set a couple that way and they seem to work well.

thank you, are you the distributor in Nevada?

Southpaw hit it on the head.
I opened it up, the points were not pointed at each other more like a V,
and the gap on the tight side was .037"
Aligned and regapped at .022" and it has a sweet,crisp start and the arc has stabilized and
the sound is perfectly clean.

Thank you!

Now, on the other hand, AHP made a made a nice, tidy looking assembly inside the case,
the arc gap is not easy to get big fat hands into though. I wonder why they are so sloppy on this
one part of the assembly line?

can someone expand on what southpaw said about the gap? im new to welding and getting this exact machine in a couple weeks!
any help is appreciated!

Set the arc gap between .021-.023. 5.5mm socket finger tight on the pints is all you need. Not uncommon to find the pints not perfectly squared up to each other from the factory.

weldkid22 wrote:can someone expand on what southpaw said about the gap? im new to welding and getting this exact machine in a couple weeks!
any help is appreciated!

Set the arc gap between .021-.023. 5.5mm socket finger tight on the pints is all you need. Not uncommon to find the pints not perfectly squared up to each other from the factory.

High frequency in a welder, or anything that uses it really, can be achieved by using an arc gap between a set of "points" or copper/conductive contacts. What he is describing is how to adjust the points so that A. They are pointed directly at each other, and B. That the gap between them is set correctly. Every manufacturer is different as far as gap goes, but if the gap is too small or too large, erratic starts, as well as diminished performance on AC welding can be the result.

A lot of manufacturers are switching to solid state circuitry for their high frequency, which uses a transistor to accomplish the same thing, eliminating the need for a point system. It's cuts down on maintenence for the end user as well as eliminating multiple components in the manufacturing side of things.

Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk

my machine is running nicely, but good info in this thread, so i will check my machine anyway and see what the gap is etc...

i have the newer version ahp, but this video illustrates what is being talked about, for anyone coming across this thread that is still confused... in the vid he states he set his to .029, note per southpaw, this should be .021-.023 for ahp, or check with your particular welders specs...
NPKwrqbwiDI

The AHP only uses the points to start the arc and if needed, maintain it at very low current, all other times, the solid state components take over. This is why it only has very small points, the Lincoln SW200 does not have points at all, this is why it has a high start amperage around 25/30 amps.

Do you suppose if you narrowed the gap just a touch it might start the arc at a lower current?