Welding Tips and Tricks

Practicing with aluminum. 150 amps on the pedal, 30% cleaning, both 80 and 200 hz, 3/32 2% lanthanated.#6 cup, 5356 1/16.

This is the first time I have used 5356 and so far I prefer it over 4043. For me it seems more controlled, doesn't flow as easy. 4043 seemed to really wet out.

I am thrilled as I did this without dipping the tungsten. I have found keeping minimal stick out helps.

I found that 80 hz was more controllable the 200 hz.

I am having a tough time finding a good method of feeding the filler, or I just still suck.

I also need to control the amps better as things get going. Either I am not backing off enough or am letting the arc grow.

Either way this seems like a win from where I was a month ago

I think I am approaching about 5 hours of actual welding time.

Please any feedback welcome

Thanks Charles

There are some decent looking beads in there but if you notice, toward the ends of every bead you can see the bead start to flatten out and get away from you. That's because the heat has nowhere to escape to and builds up. That's when you need to be easing off the pedal. Do you have any experience on other metals? The reason I ask is that trying to learn tig on aluminum is tough as things go bad on aluminum in a hurry. If it was me, I would practice on mild steel to get down timing, arc length, travel speed etc...before jumping up to aluminum. I know some guys think that aluminum tig welding is the holy grail of welding but it's not. If you learn proper technique on a more forgiving metal, you won't have to un-learn any bad habits you pick up trying to keep up with feeding lots of rod which aluminum gobbles up and chasing a puddle that is getting away from you or any of the other things aluminum is famous for.. You have to be doing everything right when tigging aluminum and it will rapidly let you know when you don't. IMO aluminum tig is finesse work after you get the basics down on other metal.

Nailer got it!

If you're like me and have almost no intention of doing steel, you should still get some as he suggested but keep working with AL as extra credit till you feel you "get it".

For that thick of aluminum (AL) which looks about 1/8, you'll probably like 3/32 filler rod. You'd be feeding less than 1/2 as much so less work and it can help keep your temp control in check but tapering down as nailer said is the most important. 1/8 filler and you'll be fighting the turds but it's totally doable.

You've got sandy bumps and I found the gas lens with good pulse/taper down at 150A for 1/8 AL took the sand away almost always. Didn't matter what I did without the gas lens though, usually always had sand with 8-15 CFH. Gas Lens I'm running 8-12 CFH depending on if I forgot to turn it down to 8 from the stainless steel.

It kinda looks like you're using a pedal which is great for AL. For 1/8 you'll probably like starting out full to almost full pedal to get things started, then you'll be pulsing the pedal about 1/2 to 2/3 to carry on for about 1-2 inches, then you'll probably find yourself around 1/4 - 1/3 as you pulse to finish things out. Taper off even slower at the end and a lil swirl will almost always give you a great finish. You'll find what you like.

It also looks like you only acetone wiped your piece since you can see the extrusion lines and a reflection. If you want a perfect surface, give it a lil sharpie line and sand/flap disc the surface till the sharpie is gone. That means you took off the top coating and you shouldn't have a reflection anymore. It's kind of the opposite of steel where AL is dull and steel is shiny when well prepped. A lil acetone wipe, and/or lint free cloth and you're good to go.

Thanks for the replies.

I have been playing around with steel as well.

I didn't expect getting into tig how much all the little things add up. Just getting into a good position with pedal, torch, filler, proping, etc. Jody makes it look so easy!


Are there any tips for getting finer control out of the pedal. Sometimes it feels like I go from full amps to too little real quick.

I'm running a 2016 Everlast 210EXT

Thanks

rprecision wrote:Thanks for the replies.

I have been playing around with steel as well.

I didn't expect getting into tig how much all the little things add up. Just getting into a good position with pedal, torch, filler, proping, etc. Jody makes it look so easy!


Are there any tips for getting finer control out of the pedal. Sometimes it feels like I go from full amps to too little real quick.

I'm running a 2016 Everlast 210EXT

Thanks

What really helped me with pedal control was just taking the torch, with no filler, and simply running a bead on a piece of plate and watching what happened when I pushed the pedal or backed off. You probably said it best that there are alot of little things all going on at the same time when tigging .....kinda like playing the drums...and it takes time to develop that new skill set. That's kinda why the more experienced guys around here tend to tell new guys NOT to start learning Tig on aluminum as everything goes faster on aluminum and you teach yourself bad habits trying to keep up. Watch Jody's videos until you can talk along with him when they play and practice. Don't put the cart in front of the horse and drive yourself crazy on aluminum. Learn how to Tig steel correctly and everything else is easier to manage.

1/16th is really thin for aluminum. I try to tack with it, but it doesn't help much. 3/32 is probably better for what you are doing. When the bead flattens out to much it is best to stop and let it cool or dunk it. Watch all of the aluminum videos. All of the little things that sound like they are too much trouble will turn out to be necessary to make good looking aluminum welds.