Welding Tips and Tricks

Hi,

I've recently broke my reading die's decapping pin. See on the photo.
I'm very new to tig welding. Any suggestion what settings should I choose guys?

It's going to be a hardened pin. After you weld it you will need to reharden it. I would use a 70s2 rod. Your going to need to have it turned or ground down to be able to get it to work again. Unless getting a new one is out of the question then be prepared to get it stuck in a future case. It will either bend or just get stuck.

It should be replaceable if it is a decent quality die... and replacement pins are cheap...

I only use the ones for small caliber I've bent a few and I think the last one cost me less than 10$

Poland308 wrote:I only use the ones for small caliber I've bent a few and I think the last one cost me less than 10$

Is this for a reloader or muzzle loader or something like that? Never seen one of these before.

Reloader it's the center pin that drives out the old primer. So it has to go through the flash hole in the case head.

I don't have any Redding dies, but for RCBS and Lee dies the decapping pins are really cheap. Since I switched to a Lee Universal Decapping Die years back, I keep 2 or 3 spare pins in stock all the time. Saves time and trouble.

Same here

I was trying to identify what was wrong with the RCBS die that I'd inherited from one of my grandfathers, and RCBS sent me a replacement stem and some pins.

That said, RCBS and Hornady have the pins cheap, as they're a service item. I believe the RCBS pins were under $10 for a 5 pack.

I'm fairly sure it should be replaceable - I don't have a Redding die here to check but in the mixture of makes up the workshop I should have & will look - as far as I can recall they all come out as I don't leave the decapping pin in my dies - I have a universal die that decaps any cal that I use prior to tumbling & only use resize etc once cleaned so don't need the pins in - if you can't find a pin ready made I just go to a model shop where they keep piano wire in many sizes - it's easy to cut a piece off & shape the end & is a much better solution than trying to weld something that small / under fair pressure & hardened.

This pin comes from Reggind Competition Bushing Neck Die. Unlike my RCBS die, Redding has decapping pin mounted some hard way into decapping rod and I cannot replace it.
However thank you guys for your input. I think I'll go buy another one rod (or two) since it seems like major headache to me to harden a pin after weld.

Sorry I misunderstood the die - not used this sort - I do neck size on some cals but usually just with a regular die turned out a 1/4turn from touching - it's still possible though not visible in the pic that the decapping pin is separate from the main rod & just loctite'd or even soldered in - as there is a little bit of the old pin showing & you have nothing to lose how about heating the rod with a torch & try wriggling the pin with vise grips - if it comes out replacing it with a new one & a spot of loctite would be easy.

Great idea, thanks! I'll try that and get back with the result.

noddybrian wrote:Sorry I misunderstood the die - not used this sort - I do neck size on some cals but usually just with a regular die turned out a 1/4turn from touching - it's still possible though not visible in the pic that the decapping pin is separate from the main rod & just loctite'd or even soldered in - as there is a little bit of the old pin showing & you have nothing to lose how about heating the rod with a torch & try wriggling the pin with vise grips - if it comes out replacing it with a new one & a spot of loctite would be easy.

Tanks! The suggestion works 100%.
After heating with my heat gun the pin comes out really easy.
Now I have to find proper replacement

This might help. Make sure of the size you have. Looks like there's two diameters.

http://www.brownells.com/reloading/relo ... 61088.aspx

Larry

If it is a 6mmBR die, the decapping pin is gonna be a smaller diameter than a standard small pin... 7mm BR and 30BR may be also... be sure to measure the pin diameter before you order any...

I confess I don't shoot the bench rest calibers but I'm fairly sure the primer pockets would still be standard dimensions so in theory the flash hole would also be - either way measure the old pin with a caliper / micrometer & find the same size in silver steel or piano wire - widely found in model shops or online - a length of that will keep you in de-capping pins for years - I use it for this & making replacement firing pins - can be fiddly working with these small diameters though especially once into the 50's with poor eyesight ! hope you have success.

First of all, that pin is a needle bearing. No easy weld thanks to carbon and carbon equivalents being well over 1%. Needle bearings are dirt cheap in bulk. I get mine from old universal joints used in automotive drivelines.

Yes, heat is how they are removed. This use of needle bearing needles was pioneered by Richard Lee of Lee Precision fame and patented...those patents have dried up so others are using them.

Most manufacturers use a smaller flash hole for any case that uses small rifle primers compared to large rifle primers. Some companies also use even smaller pins to recap if it's a die for .22 cal or less like the .17.

Just cut the ass off whatever drill bit fits in the hole and green loctite it in there.
Your making WAY to big a deal out of this