Welding Tips and Tricks

I am setting up a custom computer case for myself and I wanted to do something special. I am using 16 gauge stainless 304 as the two side panels and the front. The welds were going to be part of the artwork on the case however I have run into a bit of an issue. I made a few test pieces to weld so I could hammer down exactly the look I wanted for the outside corner joints but everything I have tried at this point always comes out with a dull grey finish. My goal was to have the dis-coloration in the weld part of the overall look. I have tried multiple travel speeds, higher and lower amps, pulse, changes in gas flow, different size tungsten and adding filler or autogenous welds. Nothing has given me the right look and I am out of ideas. I will include pictures of what my goal was as well as the current look of the welds. All of the welds I have done so far will still look good after wire brushing, but that was not my intention.

what amperage are you set at and what size tungsten and cup are you using?

wasted welder wrote:what amperage are you set at and what size tungsten and cup are you using?

Sorry, Amperage 50-70, tungsten 1/16 and 3/32, #7 gas lens and 10-20 cfh

If it's dull grey and you want it shiny then you are getting it too hot. You can try turning up your amps and moving faster. That sounds contradictory but it works on SS. If that's not an option then you need to make shorter welds say about 1 inch long and then let the parts cool compleatly between welds.

Try pulse if you have it and you need some chill blocks to draw the heat out of the SS. Some thick aluminum or copper. Also, welding outside corners splits you gas and draws in air so set up some type of dam along your weld line to trap argon. This should all help you with your color.

Chill blocks help. And fusing with no filler helps a lot too. Make a good fit up and tack every inch with small tacks. Pulse is nice but not necessary. Just tack move to the edge of that puddle and tack again.and continue moving. Stainless warps a lot. Clamp it down. I like to Clamp on each side and place a small piece of metal under the center to precurve it in the opposite direction.

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exnailpounder wrote:...you need some chill blocks to draw the heat out of the SS.
Also, welding outside corners splits you gas and draws in air so set up some type of dam along your weld line to trap argon. This should all help you with your color.

^^^ This is really good advice. Because what you are welding is so thin, you're putting too much heat into it and drawing contamination in from the backside. Your travel speed looks really slow too. Once SS gets hot, don't d!ckbeat, move. If the fit is decent, small filler wire is all you need. I'd even recommend 0.045 wire for these corners. Stuffing the backside with tinfoil will help trap the Argon and prevent "sugaring".

As soon as you stop welding, scrub the bead with a clean, stainless steel brush. It will polish up your weld very nicely, even if its grey. But pick up your speed would be my strongest advice. I made some SS brackets yesterday in fact from 1/8" and used my Fupa 12 cup, outside corners. First I've used it, and was very pleased with the outcome. Don't know whether it was the "key" but it didn't hurt.

Not getting into the debate but here's 16 gauge SS tacked closely and then fused without filler. Roughly 40-45 amps with a #8 cup and gaslens and 1/16" tungsten. Not moving exceptionally fast. To get more ripple I would experiment with a slow pulse.
No chillblocks were used but purged. Used a light and mirror to check inside and I got full pen. Removed all colors with a SS Dremel brush after

If you want it to look great, invest in some larger cups. A #12 does wonders for getting great colour out of stainless.

16ga stainless, E3 1/8" tungsten, #12 cup, 45 amps, 75/25 gas, sw250 with foot control, 3/32 308 rod.

Thank you for the info I think I found my key setup. First I added a makeshift gas dam that makes a valley where I can contain the gas. I haven't been able to fine tune the pulse function to my pace so for now I will just stick to flexing the pedal. That gave me much more heat control and a better looking weld. Then I added a piece of aluminum angle to act as a jig for the stainless sheets and it came out pretty damn well. Next time I get a chance I will add pictures of the test welds. Now as long as I dont F*** up the actual project I think I will be in the clear and pictures will follow.

Last question.... I have never intentionally tried to preserve discoloration on any stainless work so do you think it would be a good idea to maybe put some clear coat over the stainless to "preserve it"?

Thanks!

The color will remain unless you subject the case to extreme temps, or brush it with a stainless brush to remove the coloring and polish it up. Because stainless doesn't oxidize, you don't need to "clear coat" it to preserve it.

The best thing you can do to help yourself get good color along the bead (including your setup changes) is to do short runs. Force yourself to stop and let the pieces cool. The accumulating heat will change the color the longer you weld and the last segment will be much hotter than your beginning.

Do you have any intention to weld the inside corner? Its probably completely unnecessary, but if you do, understand that heat will effect the color of the outside bead. Just stating it in case you were thinking it, and had not considered it.

I used to do SS floor sump tanks. They were always 16 or 18 ga. Those were outside corners no filler no pulse scratch start. I used to like to over lap one side all the way to the edge of the other sheet. Just focused the heat on the overlapping side and it would melt in a nice rounded corner.

Josh, sounds pretty much how I did the tank I posted some pages back. Works very well when fit is good.

Max, thanks. I'll try those settings next time I'm on some SS. You did use filler on the last post right? ,040 I guess?

5th Street Fab wrote:
.....nope I didn't use any filler

.... Which is why I said it's easier to get good color without filler.

I don't argue about that, have the same opinion based on my own experience on thin SS. Not been using pulse much but want to get better understanding of it's capabilities.

Know the camera can play some tricks with the eye sometimes but your beads looked too high for not using filler.

AndersK wrote:

5th Street Fab wrote:
.....nope I didn't use any filler

.... Which is why I said it's easier to get good color without filler.

I don't argue about that, have the same opinion based on my own experience on thin SS. Not been using pulse much but want to get better understanding of it's capabilities.

Know the camera can play some tricks with the eye sometimes but your beads looked too high for not using filler.

I think its just because it's thin. I'll run one with filler and show it.

Personally I think there's a time and place for every technique. Pulse is nice because it's fast and helps bite the edges. Manual pulse is nice for deeper pen., more control and nice bead appearance. I use filler for more critical things like brackets and mounts. Anything over 16 gauge I'd probably use filler and not fusion.

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Here are the test pieces I have the the one farthest to the right is just me controlling the foot pedal on an aluminium chill block the middle is the same thing but with gas dams and the furthest one is everything but with pulse ( not set right). Thank you for all the help!

408cheytac wrote:Here are the test pieces I have the the one farthest to the right is just me controlling the foot pedal on an aluminium chill block the middle is the same thing but with gas dams and the furthest one is everything but with pulse ( not set right). Thank you for all the help!

Looking much better! Middle one looks real nice!

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...
Thank you Steve- i just wanted to take the time to say I appreciate all the work you do to moderate this forum! Keep up the good work sir-everything you do is appreciated here.
I am very interested to see how this build comes out to. I may have to build one someday if I decide to get a laptop or put it to another use.

Since I see all parties have seemed to agree to a quiet resolution, I've cleaned up what I think are the last remnants of the S#!tstorm.

We'll just let sleeping dogs lie...

Steve S

I apologize for my pissing contest. Here's some pics and settings and techniques I used today that should help for 16 gauge also however you'll need more amperage.

This is all 22 gauge stainless. No backing no chill blocks no purge.

This is the tack move to the edge of the puddle and tack method. With no filler. I make a tack step off the pedal move forward and hit the pedal again, it's an easy way to control heat input.
35 amps maybe? Can't remember anymore.



Pulse at 10 background 10 on time 30ish amps 5-7 seconds pulse and a very fast pace.

This is with 1/16" filler. Same method I used before I tack and add a small amount of filler let off the pedal move forward and tack and add filler again. Very simple and effective just slow.




Tack move tack method

Just remember fit up is key especially with fusion welds.

More of the tack move tack method.


Anyways I apologize and I hope this helps. I'm not posting these for any other reason then to help.

Your well on your way already and since you have chill blocks that will help a lot.

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The piece I will be welding is going to have a continuous weld that will be 19" vertically. Obviously I plan to tac a lot but I was wondering if I should alternate my welds on each side until they meet in the center? So I would weld say 3" on the top and then 3" on the bottom right away, wait for them to cool then repeat until they meet. Or will I be ok if I just take my time for cooling and just run right up bottom to top?

Is it possible to orient the pieces horizontally while you weld them? If so, you will not have to battle the heat so much and you should get a more consistent weld. 19" is pretty long in my opinion but you can if the heat control is right. If it were me, I'd start in the middle and weld to the corners splitting it into 2 beads. That can give you a nice tie-in and change the bead directions. (Flip the piece end-for-end so you are welding in the same direction physically).

5th Street Fab wrote: This is all 22 gauge stainless. No backing no chill blocks no purge.

This is the tack move to the edge of the puddle and tack method. With no filler. I make a tack step off the pedal move forward and hit the pedal again, it's an easy way to control heat input.
35 amps maybe? Can't remember anymore.

The only thing about this is the crater (or butt hole) that is left when you snap off the pedal, I personally wouldn't like that and the method seems to be slow, more then one way to get the job done and each of us might approach this differently, and that's a good thing about learning what technique others use.

LtBadd wrote:

5th Street Fab wrote: This is all 22 gauge stainless. No backing no chill blocks no purge.

This is the tack move to the edge of the puddle and tack method. With no filler. I make a tack step off the pedal move forward and hit the pedal again, it's an easy way to control heat input.
35 amps maybe? Can't remember anymore.

The only thing about this is the crater (or butt hole) that is left when you snap off the pedal, I personally wouldn't like that and the method seems to be slow, more then one way to get the job done and each of us might approach this differently, and that's a good thing about learning what technique others use.

Agreed it is very slow and no one likes craters. But it's just another way to get pretty colors with none of the fancy stuff (big cups and chill blocks).

Here's the same technique but dabbing with 040 filler

And for thin stainless I use .040 tungsten it's just what I learned on so I'm used to it. It's easy to start at low amperage.

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