Aluminum craters, Chinese pedal adjustment, feedback
Posted: Fri Mar 10, 2017 11:05 am
It's been a while since I've posted any of my work. I've been busy working on my furniture design, all in steel up to this point.
I am doing a small job out of aluminum and have been working on my skills. I was having particular trouble tapering off at the end of a weld without leaving a crater. I kept finding the torch cutting out too soon. I'm using my AHP Alphatig200x and the supplied pedal. I opened the pedal up and made a few measurements. I could hear the microswitch clicking on/off but could see (and measure with a meter) that the slide potentiometer was not at the end of its travel. I ovalled the mounting holes for the pot and switch so I could adjust their positions and reassembled. After a little bit of adjustments with the screws and a little bending I could hear the switch click JUST as the pot started to move. Reassembled and voila! a HUGE difference in tapering off. If you're having troubles with your pedal and don't have the money to buy a nicer one, then I suggest opening the pedal up.
I'm looking for a bit of feedback.The first pic of an aluminum piece for the job. 2" Sq tubing, 0.125" wall 6061 capped with a 2" square tubing, 0.25" wall. Welding the thick cap to the thin was tricky. Machine settings were pedal control, 170 amps, 30% balance (chinese machine), 50 Hz (for better penetration). I know 170 amps doesn't meet the 1 amp/0.001" of material but the end cap is fairly small and I'm biasing the heat towards the thicker cap. The second pic is of some Y pieces, all out of 2" sq, 0.125" wall. I'm open for feedback and suggestions. Or should I be embarrassed to sell such work?
I am doing a small job out of aluminum and have been working on my skills. I was having particular trouble tapering off at the end of a weld without leaving a crater. I kept finding the torch cutting out too soon. I'm using my AHP Alphatig200x and the supplied pedal. I opened the pedal up and made a few measurements. I could hear the microswitch clicking on/off but could see (and measure with a meter) that the slide potentiometer was not at the end of its travel. I ovalled the mounting holes for the pot and switch so I could adjust their positions and reassembled. After a little bit of adjustments with the screws and a little bending I could hear the switch click JUST as the pot started to move. Reassembled and voila! a HUGE difference in tapering off. If you're having troubles with your pedal and don't have the money to buy a nicer one, then I suggest opening the pedal up.
I'm looking for a bit of feedback.The first pic of an aluminum piece for the job. 2" Sq tubing, 0.125" wall 6061 capped with a 2" square tubing, 0.25" wall. Welding the thick cap to the thin was tricky. Machine settings were pedal control, 170 amps, 30% balance (chinese machine), 50 Hz (for better penetration). I know 170 amps doesn't meet the 1 amp/0.001" of material but the end cap is fairly small and I'm biasing the heat towards the thicker cap. The second pic is of some Y pieces, all out of 2" sq, 0.125" wall. I'm open for feedback and suggestions. Or should I be embarrassed to sell such work?