Welding Tips and Tricks

I'm fairly new to tig and have been getting semi-passable mild steel results for my furniture and art projects, but am flummoxed by something on aluminum.
My foot pedal controls amps nicely in DC setting when welding steel, but when I switch to AC with no pulse the pedal acts like an on/off switch. its either wide open or snaps off leaving a cracked crater. Chance of this being operator error is probably 100%.
i Have RTFM.
1/8 inch 6061
AHP 200
AC
2T
no pulse
Balance 25%
Main amps 150
start amp 0 end amp 0 (same results with start amps 50, end amps 50)
3/32 2% lanthanated tungsten
3/32 4043
I can't figure out what I am missing. Comments?

Does your power source have adjustable up slope and down slope?
If so set to about 5 seconds each.


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no upslope

I know zero about that machine but I see 2t in your settings. 2t is an on/off setting unless you set an upslope and downslope value . Check that first.

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Can you post a pic of the machine's front panel?


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Coldman wrote:Can you post a pic of the machine's front panel?


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x2

mopeep wrote: Chance of this being operator error is probably 100%.

Good, we can work with that.

Like the other guys are saying, could be a sloped function. I believe most machines save settings from last time, say you used Lift TIG feature last on AC it will be there again when you go to weld AC so if someone welded with a certain setting, its very likely you have to change it around to accommodate you.

Not a lot of people use my welder but I am used to just always double checking the displays and buttons to make sure everything is set where I like it.

Its easier to figure this welding stuff out by trial and error than to upload a photo.

will keep figuring out photo and get back to you

Like this one? I've seen another configuration, but the important switch is on both. Put it in 4t mode, and your pedal should control your amps. If not, I'll have to review the manual to see if we're missing something.

mopeep wrote:Its easier to figure this welding stuff out by trial and error than to upload a photo.

will keep figuring out photo and get back to you

If anyone can help you figure out what your problem is, its these guys here.

Pictures are very helpful, realize you might think you have a certain thing going on or seeing a certain thing or even think you have a certain machine, post a picture and these guys can tell you if your right or not.

Easier to solve these things by providing what they ask for, just like the cops..... well, kind of.

Yes I agree there is lots of brainpower available from all you guys to figure out most any issue and photos greatly increase communication.

I appreciate the help tremendously.

Here is my AHP control panel. Have since had pretty good luck with 1/8 inch aluminum using AC main amps at 135, start amps at 35 and ending amps at 35. Was able to get a good puddle real fast, got good cleaning, and could modulate with pedal as the work got hotter. I admit i am mystified by the whole start amps, ending amps thing as it relates to pedal modulation in 2T setting.

Up/downslope is typically not active when using footpedal because you the operator are controlling the up & down slope, but if it is (which I feel it shouldn't) then figuring out how it plays a part is simple. Adjust only one variable at a time and note if there is any different behavior. Try different values back-to-back so your memory is fresh and remember how the arc behaves with different settings. Same thing for end amps. Just remember to keep EVERYTHING else constant.

So I take it that your footpedal no longer acts as an on/off switch and you are able to modulate the amperage with pedal modulation?

Yes, I took a long break making these posts and when I went back on the aluminum I was modulating and controlling heat just like I have been for a couple years working on mild steel. I can't figure what setting I abused to get pedal to act like on-off switch. Is that even possible?
good advice about changing only one parameter at a time.

Am I right that when using pedal that start and end amp settings don't matter, but the important part is setting main amps high enough to puddle quickly and then get off and on the pedal as needed?

mopeep wrote:Yes, I took a long break making these posts and when I went back on the aluminum I was modulating and controlling heat just like I have been for a couple years working on mild steel. I can't figure what setting I abused to get pedal to act like on-off switch. Is that even possible?
good advice about changing only one parameter at a time.

Am I right that when using pedal that start and end amp settings don't matter, but the important part is setting main amps high enough to puddle quickly and then get off and on the pedal as needed?

I have the slope function on my Dynasty but I never use it. I don't think its too useful unless your doing the same weld, over and over and you know what to expect, being able to control it yourself modulating with the pedal is probably better.