Welding Tips and Tricks

When attempting lay wire technique the filler just melts and runs away from the puddle.
What am I doing wrong please?

I think you'll need to be more specific to get good answers.

Amps, thickness of material, torch angle, filler size, type of weld, etc.

I've never done lay wire for aluminum, only steel.

I started by laying the wire and kicking pedal...got the same result.
Now I start the puddle then scoot the wire in and lay it. I move the torch and work the amps with the base my main concern. The wire melts and joins the puddle.
If I go too fast what you describe happens.

The wire is easy to melt and close to the arc. That makes the start a bear. Fun technique with practice.

I've done the lay wire, but only when walking the cup.

What material are you welding? What is the diameter of the filler?

.125" 6061 cleaned & brushed, 3/32" filler, T joint, amps were up there but forget precise setting, working the pedal anyway.
20 CFH.
Miller 180, stubby gas lens, 3/32 2% lanthanated.

In the above pic, the filler end is melted and drawn by capillary action into the puddle--puddle's literally
sucking off the rod end.
Above is welding reinforcement corner gusset (1/8") to top of old 1/16" diamond plate toolbox.
Once the puddle is established and filler added to advance it slightly, end of filler is placed at the fluid
toe puddle-either right or left side, to create a melt path to the puddle.
With heat management, torch motion & angle, the puddle is advanced while continuously being fed by the filler end.
Filler is advanced some, into the puddle zone. As others mention--lay rod or lay wire requires 'a little' bench time

dynasty 350 setup notes
5356 filler
Advanced squarewave form
GEN start
1/16 Lan for crack welds, switched to 3/32 for plate welds
#7 gas lens 100%AR
70% balance for cracks went down to 65% for plates
2 EN : 1 EP
150 AC Hz
100 amps max for cracks, 140 amps max setting for plates

Greybeard wrote:.125" 6061 cleaned & brushed, 3/32" filler, T joint, amps were up there but forget precise setting, working the pedal anyway.
20 CFH.
Miller 180, stubby gas lens, 3/32 2% lanthanated.

Torch angle is critical on aluminum. I have never tried to do laywire on aluminum. The laywire method uses a torch angle that probably wouldn't work with aluminum. You'll melt the filler before it hits the puddle. Hope this helps! Maybe someone with more experience chimes in!

dave powelson wrote:

P6270003 12w lay rod arrow .jpg

In the above pic, the filler end is melted and drawn by capillary action into the puddle--puddle's literally
sucking off the rod end.
Above is welding reinforcement corner gusset (1/8") to top of old 1/16" diamond plate toolbox.
Once the puddle is established and filler added to advance it slightly, end of filler is placed at the fluid
toe puddle-either right or left side, to create a melt path to the puddle.
With heat management, torch motion & angle, the puddle is advanced while continuously being fed by the filler end.
Filler is advanced some, into the puddle zone. As others mention--lay rod or lay wire requires 'a little' bench time

dynasty 350 setup notes
5356 filler
Advanced squarewave form
GEN start
1/16 Lan for crack welds, switched to 3/32 for plate welds
#7 gas lens 100%AR
70% balance for cracks went down to 65% for plates
2 EN : 1 EP
150 AC Hz
100 amps max for cracks, 140 amps max setting for plates

And your arc is right at the front of the puddle?
By this time the rod would be half way up my glove!
I know... "practice "

And your arc is right at the front of the puddle?
....No, if arc was at front--filler end would melt away.
For bridging this gap, I suspect torch angle was pointed back at puddle.
I use a CK flex lok torch, adjusting as needed, without wondering what the torch attitude
and angle is, since I'm not instructing.
There's no back and forth, dabbing--the puddle's being worked and advanced, while
the rod keeps being fed into the puddle. It's a fast way to run a joint, faster than dabbing.


By this time the rod would be half way up my glove!
I know... "practice " [/quote]

I only use laywire when walking the cup or pulsing. Have you tried pulse? Maybe then the puddle won't consume the rod like you described?