Hey folks! Since it's my first post a little background:
I've done basic TIG work on and off since I was 18, now 30. Nothing critical accept for a handful of babbitt turbine bearings. Mostly just broken taps, dowel pins, and the odd piece or part. Haven't picked up a tig in a few years, but had a job come up that persuaded me to pick up a tig. Grabbed a synchrowave 210 and all the goodies I will need for 304SS, mild and 6061.
Before jumping into the job I decided to do some practice as a refresher, and I'm having some issues. I grabbed a few pieces of mild, chromo, 304 and 6061 off the shelf. So far the steels are giving me a headache, but the aluminum seems pretty dang decent.
When I try to weld mild or chromo I get of lot of popping and sputtering like the material is contaminated or something... which it isn't. Tossed it in the ultrasonic, rinsed with water, dried, then hit it with a fresh sanding disc. The 304 isn't much better... sugars up with no shine.
Setup:
synchrowave 210
pure argon, started at 20cfh went up to 30 with no improvement
dcen <120A
1/16 ceriated tungsten
I tried a plain #7 cup and a #10 lens, similar result
In this pic I started on a piece of 304 tube. I know... it's not purged... so then I went to a block of 304. Both super clean and oil free.
This ring is chromo from what I remember. Sputters and pops all over the place, with or without filler.
Any ideas?
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- weldin mike 27
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Weldmonger
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Joined:Fri Apr 01, 2011 10:59 pm
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Location:Australia; Victoria
I'm not 100 percent sure but I think you need some kind of diffusion material in the gas lens. Like a steel mesh circle
Does look like a gas coverage problem.
Either it's not flowing and blanketing the area properly or there's outside air/oxygen being drawn into the argon stream causing the material to oxidise (leaks in torch or sealing to cup).
Perhaps try a plain ceramic gas-lense cup and bump up the flow and gas pre-/postflow timers to see if it improves.
Also keep in mind that stainless does retain the heat much more localised than alu, so you tend to need a lot less power and can/have to move a bit faster.
Bye, Arno.
Either it's not flowing and blanketing the area properly or there's outside air/oxygen being drawn into the argon stream causing the material to oxidise (leaks in torch or sealing to cup).
Perhaps try a plain ceramic gas-lense cup and bump up the flow and gas pre-/postflow timers to see if it improves.
Also keep in mind that stainless does retain the heat much more localised than alu, so you tend to need a lot less power and can/have to move a bit faster.
Bye, Arno.
noddybrian
- noddybrian
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Weldmonger
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Joined:Thu Jan 24, 2013 12:13 pm
The pyrex gas lens looks like the generic Ebay / Chinesium kind ( could be wrong ) - if so that maybe the problem - I don't understand why but they just don't seem to work - no logical reason - they flow gas & don't leak so should ! if you have the same results with regular ceramic cups then I would suspect a leak dragging air as previously mentioned or contaminated / wrongly labelled gas - any way you can swap or borrow another cylinder that is proven to be 100% argon ?
[quote="noddybrian"]The pyrex gas lens looks like the generic Ebay / Chinesium kind ( could be wrong ) - if so that maybe the problem - I don't understand why but they just don't seem to work - no logical reason - they flow gas & don't leak so should ! if you have the same results with regular ceramic cups then I would suspect a leak dragging air as previously mentioned or contaminated / wrongly labelled gas - any way you can swap or borrow another cylinder that is proven to be 100% argon ?[/quote
I second this.... have used Chinese ebay sh@# Pyrex cup and gas diffuser before......which have been crap, put a ceramic cup on and see how it goes....
I second this.... have used Chinese ebay sh@# Pyrex cup and gas diffuser before......which have been crap, put a ceramic cup on and see how it goes....
Esseti AC/DC 200
Uni mig mini mig 180
Rossi ct 416 plasma
Uni mig mini mig 180
Rossi ct 416 plasma
- tungstendipper
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Weldmonger
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Posts:
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Joined:Sun Nov 19, 2017 10:09 am
or......Buy the 4 pak of #8 pyrex cups from the Weldmonger store.Darrin wrote:noddybrian wrote:The pyrex gas lens looks like the generic Ebay / Chinesium kind ( could be wrong ) - if so that maybe the problem - I don't understand why but they just don't seem to work - no logical reason - they flow gas & don't leak so should ! if you have the same results with regular ceramic cups then I would suspect a leak dragging air as previously mentioned or contaminated / wrongly labelled gas - any way you can swap or borrow another cylinder that is proven to be 100% argon ?[/quote
I second this.... have used Chinese ebay sh@# Pyrex cup and gas diffuser before......which have been crap, put a ceramic cup on and see how it goes....
Lincoln MP 210, Lincoln Square Wave 200,
Everlast 210 EXT
Thermal Dynamics 25 Plasma cutter
" Anything that carries your livelihood wants to be welded so that Thor can’t break it."
CJ737
Everlast 210 EXT
Thermal Dynamics 25 Plasma cutter
" Anything that carries your livelihood wants to be welded so that Thor can’t break it."
CJ737
Been there done that, stick with a good name brand, I like C&K products.
Pete
Esab SVI 300, Mig 4HD wire feeder, 30A spool gun, Miller Passport, Dynasty 300 DX, Coolmate 4, Spectrum 2050, C&K Cold Wire feeder WF-3, Black Gold Tungsten Sharperner, Prime Weld 225
Esab SVI 300, Mig 4HD wire feeder, 30A spool gun, Miller Passport, Dynasty 300 DX, Coolmate 4, Spectrum 2050, C&K Cold Wire feeder WF-3, Black Gold Tungsten Sharperner, Prime Weld 225
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