Yes, 60* is less sharp than the regular grind.
You can blunt the tip, I don’t. I ball it intentionally. After grinding, I set my AC Balance to 30, amps to 150. I smoothly ramp the pedal with the tungsten hovering just over top of a scrap piece of 3/8 plate I have. I watch the tip, when I get a small and consistent ball, I stop. Reset AC Balance to (desired) set my amps, and weld on.
Washing the weld means going back over it, with no filler. This will enable you to tie in the toes where you might have missed, clean up the weld aesthetically, and cook out some porosity. If you discover a large pore, some additional filler may be required. When I wash, (and I’m talking welds here, not my shower habits) I reverse my direction. I’m making new “ripples” so I want to get the best appearance that I’m capable of. Just make distinct, deliberate travel with the torch. Sometimes, I set my machine to PULSE for this as it gives a perfect freeze line and travel speed for me.
Peen, yes “hammer it”. If you have some round stock, grind a gentle taper into it, then round over the end. You’ve made basically a cold chisel with a round nose. A small brass hammer, tapping the weld between passes, or as you discover porosity. This helps “pack” the weld and drive out those ugly holes. With a new casting, you should be just fine.
Realize this: EVERYBODY welds differently. EVERY machine welds slightly differently. Pace of yuor travel, amount of filler, the action on the pedal, it all effects the outcome. Each person who welds, finds slight tweaks into getting the results they produce. What I do, may not work for you. How I setup my machine, may change as I weld. I might see something that I know I can conquer with a change in Balance, Freq, amperage, whatever. Maybe a different cup. You have to be willing to experiment and to ruin material before you get it dialed in. There is simply no substitute for hood time. And you will never produce great welds every time. No one can. Some days you got it, some you don’t. You might rip 60 gorgeous welds in a row, then as you go to finish the piece, you lay a weld that looks like crap! And you say, “WTF, who’s that guy welding behind me?” It happens, it’s welding.
What is important is strength of your weld. It must support its application. Beauty is secondary. You could have gorgeous looking welds that won’t hold a fly’s fart, but strong welds that Thor couldn’t bend. I’ll take the latter and work towards the former. So get some hood time, expect differing results, and don’t beat yourself up when they don’t turn out perfectly. They can be fixed with washing, a second pass, or a grinder.
Be patient and let things cool off. Heat saturation is probably the hardest thing to explain and teach to someone. Welding takes a lot time to perform, because temperature control is time-based. Really grainy welds in ally are a surefire sign of heat soaked material. Weld 4” on ally and stop. Air cool it with a hose or a quench bucket. Dry it, then proceed. Steel and stainless, let it cool naturally (10-15 minutes). You can weld farther on thick material, and on carbon, but the cooling time takes longer because you use more heat.
Sorry for the long-winded response. Hopefully it answers some questions and gives you a tad more insight that you may not have contemplated.