Welding Tips and Tricks

Would it be possible to use a potentiometer in line with the tig torches power supply to control your arc?

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Yes but it will be very large and expensive in order to handle the amps.

Poland308 wrote:Yes but it will be very large and expensive in order to handle the amps.

Would you happen to have a link to one possibly?

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I think what you are looking for is called a Rheostat. They are around $1k.

https://www.digikey.com/products/en/pot ... ageSize=25

Note: I probably botched the search, but an electronics supplier like digikey or mouser is your best bet.

draakken66613 wrote:Would it be possible to use a potentiometer in line with the tig torches power supply to control your arc?

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i have to ask why?
all tig power supplies have power control anyway.

a Rheostat of that sort of amps is usually big and usually not exactly accurate for use in a foot pedal.

whats often more useful is a foot operated switch so you have shut off the arc without having to snap out.

Doesn't it depend on the welder?

If your running lift arc or scratch start I can see a rheostat being necessary, but if it's a TIG welder with a remote input then is usually just a pot. I know my Lincoln 355 uses a 10K pot, but I think Millers may use different ohm rating. Then you just have to figure out the pinout for the plug. Mine was pretty simple to find in the manual. Most remote plugs use a pin connector called a "cannon connector" or "circular connector". I made my own finger control with a linear slide pot.

SteveJustSteve wrote:Doesn't it depend on the welder?

If your running lift arc or scratch start I can see a rheostat being necessary, but if it's a TIG welder with a remote input then is usually just a pot. I know my Lincoln 355 uses a 10K pot, but I think Millers may use different ohm rating. Then you just have to figure out the pinout for the plug. Mine was pretty simple to find in the manual. Most remote plugs use a pin connector called a "cannon connector" or "circular connector". I made my own finger control with a linear slide pot.

This is the welding machine I'm trying to basically turn into a full blown tig. It's an old transformer style stick machine with a lever for the amperage adjustment. Any thoughts?

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tweake wrote:

draakken66613 wrote:Would it be possible to use a potentiometer in line with the tig torches power supply to control your arc?

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i have to ask why?
all tig power supplies have power control anyway.

a Rheostat of that sort of amps is usually big and usually not exactly accurate for use in a foot pedal.

whats often more useful is a foot operated switch so you have shut off the arc without having to snap out.

I would integrate the potentiometer into a foot pedal which would let me control my amperage.

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https://www.weldingsuppliesfromioc.com/ ... der-907710

Here’s a 160 amp machine with accessories for about the same money as adding controls to your existing machine. This is why it’s so uncommon to do what your asking about. You get more usable amps, better control, and less power use.

Poland308 wrote:https://www.weldingsuppliesfromioc.com/ ... der-907710

Here’s a 160 amp machine with accessories for about the same money as adding controls to your existing machine. This is why it’s so uncommon to do what your asking about. You get more usable amps, better control, and less power use.

That's not what I'm trying to do though. I literally rewired this entire machine. And as far as stick welding goes, I'd put it up against any Miller or Lincoln of the same amperage. You see, I'm retired. I do all kinds of things to stay busy. It's just something that I want to see if my skill level is great enough to do. I'm not worried about the cost of making the conversion, I just want to do it. No offense to anyone but if I do this and it fails, whooptie doo. That's$50 I'm out. That's how much I paid for the unworking machine. I could buy a tig welder anywhere. I don't want to. I want to build it myself. As a matter of fact I have a Tig welder. I also have a mig & a stick. I don't need to purchase another one. I want to build it for the bragging rights.

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My advise is get proficient at scratch start and save up for a good used machine or a new inverter.

SteveJustSteve wrote:My advise is get proficient at scratch start and save up for a good used machine or a new inverter.

I already have a mig, a tig, and a stick welder. I want to do this just to see if I can. It's a hobby. I'm retired and am trying to stay busy so I don't just die.

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draakken66613 wrote:

tweake wrote:

draakken66613 wrote:Would it be possible to use a potentiometer in line with the tig torches power supply to control your arc?

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i have to ask why?
all tig power supplies have power control anyway.

a Rheostat of that sort of amps is usually big and usually not exactly accurate for use in a foot pedal.

whats often more useful is a foot operated switch so you have shut off the arc without having to snap out.

I would integrate the potentiometer into a foot pedal which would let me control my amperage.

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That's what I'm trying to do. I just need to know if I would be able to integrate it to the output of the machine or into the stinger wire/tig torch as sort of an inline amperage control/adjustment. Basically the foot pedals power is from the welding lead to the pedal then from the pedal to the tig torch. That's what I'm trying to find out. If it'll work that way or not. Any suggestions aside from purchasing another dedicated tig machine which I already have. I don't need nor do I want to purchase another one. All I'm trying to do is modify this $50 stick machine for the hell of it. Just to see if I can.

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I didn’t mean don’t do it. I just mean that’s the reason there’s not a lot of info on that type of conversion.

Poland308 wrote:I didn’t mean don’t do it. I just mean that’s the reason there’s not a lot of info on that type of conversion.

I know. It sucks. I've literally (possibly literally lol) looked just about everywhere on the internet and there is just nothing on this. I'm amazed people haven't done this sort of thing yet. Or if they have then they're keeping it a friggin secret from me. LOL. That's my life though. Buttfuckin a bear. If u can just imagine how difficult that would be. LOLOLOLOHAHAHAHAHA.

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I’d recommend some light reading.

call ssc controls and see if they will steer you in the right direction

SteveJustSteve wrote:Doesn't it depend on the welder?

If your running lift arc or scratch start I can see a rheostat being necessary, but if it's a TIG welder with a remote input then is usually just a pot. I know my Lincoln 355 uses a 10K pot, but I think Millers may use different ohm rating. Then you just have to figure out the pinout for the plug. Mine was pretty simple to find in the manual. Most remote plugs use a pin connector called a "cannon connector" or "circular connector". I made my own finger control with a linear slide pot.

do you have a thread on here about that build?

draakken66613 wrote:

tweake wrote:

draakken66613 wrote:Would it be possible to use a potentiometer in line with the tig torches power supply to control your arc?

Sent from my SM-S727VL using Tapatalk

i have to ask why?
all tig power supplies have power control anyway.

a Rheostat of that sort of amps is usually big and usually not exactly accurate for use in a foot pedal.

whats often more useful is a foot operated switch so you have shut off the arc without having to snap out.

I would integrate the potentiometer into a foot pedal which would let me control my amperage.

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That's what I plan to do but..... I need to somehow integrate the foot pedal in the mix 1st. It's just a standard transformer type AC/DC stick welding machine. There is no spot for a pedal. I need to make a spot which is easy. Connecting the spot with all the proper wiring... That's where I'm pretty much stuck like Chuck. LOL.

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Granddaddy wrote:call ssc controls and see if they will steer you in the right direction

Thanks. I appreciate the info. I'll call them 1st thing in the morning.... depending on what time zone they're in. LOL

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As a side note if you didn't want to use a foot pedal in this build have you heard about or seen a tig button?



I have no clue if it would be easier or harder to get wired up to your machine but more options are usually nice so I figured I'd mention it.

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Toggatug wrote:As a side note if you didn't want to use a foot pedal in this build have you heard about or seen a tig button?



I have no clue if it would be easier or harder to get wired up to your machine but more options are usually nice so I figured I'd mention it.

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Thanks dude. I appreciate it.

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Granddaddy wrote:

SteveJustSteve wrote:Doesn't it depend on the welder?

If your running lift arc or scratch start I can see a rheostat being necessary, but if it's a TIG welder with a remote input then is usually just a pot. I know my Lincoln 355 uses a 10K pot, but I think Millers may use different ohm rating. Then you just have to figure out the pinout for the plug. Mine was pretty simple to find in the manual. Most remote plugs use a pin connector called a "cannon connector" or "circular connector". I made my own finger control with a linear slide pot.

do you have a thread on here about that build?

No I'm new here but I will try to put something up on it

thanks Steve.

So this is a bit random but it's not that easy to achieve what you want as the foot pedals / thumb wheels / buttons etc are using components that handle a few milliamps to signal a control board on inverter welders controlling the output - your welder appears to require a mechanical lever to be moved in order to change amps - so my thought if I were trying to do this is ( assuming you have compressed air available ) remover the locking mechanism off the control lever & install a small air cylinder to operate it then look for an air brake pedal off a truck & use this to give a variable pressure to send to the cylinder - either use an external return spring or sprung cylinder ( ie throttle control cylinder off engine drive compressor or boat ) most of the bits you could find in a decent junkyard for very little money.