Welding Tips and Tricks

Hi guys, I am new to tig welding, got my Everlast 210ext last 2 month or so.
I initially started by testing on mild steel tube and switched to aluminum once I could run a bead and it looked fairly good.
Now, after watching and now re-watching many of Yt welding vids, I have a stable arc on 6061 test plates and can even run shorts beads, sorta. Not pretty mind you, but it is a start.
Now, I am hoping to make up some fencing panels for my partners to do list.
The main job calls for 1" square, rounded corner, 6061 tube .
After studying this problem I am thinking there may be 2 problems at work here , torch too hot, metal tube too cold and maybe bad ground. I fixed the ground, but the got the same results.
1. When trying to test weld a T joint at the joint itself with 2 , cleaned, and almost polished pieces, my torch tungsten, Red - 3/32, and 1/16 , 4043 feed rod, I am getting blow out at the torch tip, meaning uncontrollable start with lots of noise, black soot etc.
At this time I checked the heat on the torch body by removing my one glove. It was close to being too hot to touch due to my continuous attempts I thinkl.
The everlast welder came with a #9 and a #26 torch. Both are getting quite warm and it seems that no matter what I try, less amps, etc. the arc just blows in all directions telling me they are too hot.?
I have tried swapping back and forth between to 2, same result.
I am thinking a water torch and cooler setup would fix this problem but cannot justify the cost at his time.
Maybe a DIY kit?
PS.. Argon Gas at 13-15 CFH, Gas lens in both torches, #5 ceramic cup, approx 1/8 tungsten outisde cup.
Any thoughts would be appreciated.
Thanks Keith

From what I have read there are lots of ways to build a water cooler. From complex pumps to simple running supply water in and letting drain to daylight on other end.

It appears that buying an expensive cooler is not always required. As there are some very talented people running diy coolers of varying designs.

I’m curious if the extra hoses involved in a water cool torch are more cumbersome than the air cooled or maybe it does not get noticed?

Learning here also


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First, a RED tungsten is not the correct type for aluminum. Blue (2% lanthanated) or Grey (1% ceriated) will work better.

The thickness of your tubing?

1" square ally tubing with a 1/8" wall will need about 170+ amps to weld with, a pedal to taper your amperage down after you get a puddle, and a good solid ground. Keep any breeze away from your welding area.

A #9 torch is too small in amperage rating. A 17 will do it, a 26 is fine as well, though a touch cumbersome due to its size. I'd use a #5 cup, 10-12CFH pure argon, and a standard collet body. A blunt taper (30*) and a slightly balled end to weld with. 3/32 filler is plenty strong if you fillet weld all 4 sides. Tack each length in the middle, then run a bead around the corners, stop, reposition, then resume. Your tack should be consumed by your bead and you'll be fine.

When welding ally, the material gets really hot, really quickly. So take time between welds to let the base material cool. Your beads will be less grainy and your welding heat more consistent.

Radishfever wrote: I’m curious if the extra hoses involved in a water cool torch are more cumbersome than the air cooled or maybe it does not get noticed?

Learning here also
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I can't remember the last time I used an air cooled torch, but it did happen.

That said I've always used a 20 at the shops I worked and also now at home, it's not going to be a problem, millions of them in use.

Keith, Can you post some pics?

From another novice with some hundreds of hours under my belt but nowhere as competent or experienced as cj737 or LtBadd, I'd say that you should be doing fine with an air-cooled torch on that material. I have a 26 and it gets too hot to touch quite often but it keeps on going. So I wouldn't worry about that.

Are you sure you have Argon flow? Meaning, do you feel it on your skin if you hold the torch close (without shocking yourself)? My only experience with that black soot that you describe is either no Argon or I just dumped the tungsten in the puddle.

Metal too cold doesn't sound right either. Unless you're welding at the arctic circle. I have never had to pre-heat the AL that I was welding.

Are you welding inside or outside? If there's a draft while you weld, you're toast. That Ar is just going to blow away.

You're welding AC right? And what amperage?

Those are my thoughts.

Jon

Heh guys, Sorry about the disappear but had to move inside due to weather and gas shield issues.
Once I opened the old shop area, I realized I had a mold build up, mice and their extended families living inside my walls, cabinets, etc. This took a lot of my time to clean up. This with working a farm 20% of the day , etc, as you can imagine, and I will say this is moving a lot slower than I initially planned.
So far I have managed a 8x8 work area and presently waiting for some fume exhaust parts to arrive, and more money to arrive to move forward.
Next would be a temporary weld table , some hydro power mods for the equipment then back at it. November is almost here, time flies.
Once settled, I will be back to chat.

Thanks to everyone who replied to my questions, I hope the above reply will do for now.

PS I have been re-watching many great videos and see where I missed on details. Still learning at 66.

Hi Guys, I'm back and ready to get at it.
After some time of typing out a longish message, i pressed submit and was forced to sign in again.
I lost 20 minutes of bad typing. lols
I'm not going to redo it , so I hope you will understand this short note.
I had , due to time passed, reread all the notes , yes, I lost the ones I wrote down too..
I will get back when I have had time to implement the changes.
Chat later. Keith

Sounds good Keith, post back with some photos

photos AND details. You haven't told us anything about the AC settings on the machine. Unless that aluminum tubing is very thick or you have to weld a lot of it non-stop, the 26 torch should be fine. The WP9 will heat up very fast for my liking. As was mentioned, 2% Lanthanated, or 2% Ceriated is what you should be using. Water-cooled is the way to go, but not necessary if you are keeping things at a non-production level and have time for the torch to cool off. Really the torch should stay intact, it's the 1pc power/gas hose that can start to decompose within the handle as the heat coming from the internal copper wire can get hot enough to disintegrate it from the inside out. Me personally, I think the sudden rotation around the corners of square tubing is tricky unless you've gotten a lot of practice, because it's a full 90° instant turn as opposed to a gradual turn on round tubing. It all just depends on your dexterity and concentration abilities. I would rather tack the corners since that is where the heat will accumulate. I would put a nice big, plump tack there, and use it as a start-stop point, because that extra mass will help cool the puddle when you get to it at the end of the run. Just my personal take/rationale on it.

HI,,,will do,,back in a day or so..

K

Heh guys, I made it out to the shop even and though the winter head cold is lingering, managed a couple test on 2 , 1/8 plate, 6061 coupons. , previously used and cleaned with stainless brush and further cleaned using 99.9% isopropol alcohol.

I started out at 140 amp ( pic 0012 ) setting on the 210ext, 100 hz , no pulse, 30 cleaning, ramp at 40, At this setting I almost blew a hole and could not form a puddle, it happened very fast. ( see top line on pic 0026..)
I dropped the amps to 100, ramp to 20, almost as bad. plenty of soot, start of a puddle.

I changed test plate, dropped to 80 and was a bit more successful but lots of soot. ( pic 0018 above )

So, I figure my home made, copper wire ground is not working and will have to look at that ,

My tungsten, Red, 3/32 had a ball by the 2nd attempt on plate 1. ( I have ordered blue 2% lanthanated, hope to have next week )
I was using the foot pedal, and last line on pic 18, I managed a bead of sorts..By this time the plate was really hot..

Your thoughts are welcome, thanks for taking the time.

Keith

You have an argon issue. Either you’re not using 100% pure argon, or it’s not flowing.

I bought a 250ex and the regulator fluttered like a butterfly when I hit the pedal, and the factory clamps on the lines sucked at best; they leaked and lost alot of Argon. Changed to a good regulator from Jody and put hose clamps on ending the leaks and whaddaya know, problem solved. I know it's a different machine, but I'd bet the reulators are the same.

If you're using the pedal you won't need the ramp time. Rely on the pedal for amp control up and down. Also like stated, there is the issue with gas coverage. And if it's aluminum you're welding, make sure you are on A/C with 2% lanthanated (blue) tungsten with a little stick out and keep as close to the material as you can without dipping. Try running a bead without filler a couple times to get used to the process. Have fun with it and practice ... a lot.

Guys, Thanks for the reply's.
I can raise the argon up to 15 or 20 and see if that helps.

I have tested the 210 argon lines by shutting off the tank and looking for a slow leak. I did not notice any but who knows.

I should have a look inside the machine and replace some clamps. Put it on my to do list.

I will drop the ramp up.

Thanks for the reply's, I have some thing to work with now.

Also, I like the gas lens but getting anything from china is hit and miss, perhaps mostly miss.

Any suggestions on that one.?

Cheers Keith

Keith wrote:Guys, Thanks for the reply's.
I can raise the argon up to 15 or 20 and see if that helps.

I have tested the 210 argon lines by shutting off the tank and looking for a slow leak. I did not notice any but who knows.

I should have a look inside the machine and replace some clamps. Put it on my to do list.

I will drop the ramp up.

Thanks for the reply's, I have some thing to work with now.

Also, I like the gas lens but getting anything from china is hit and miss, perhaps mostly miss.

Any suggestions on that one.?

Cheers Keith

That's ridiculous if you have to open up your machine to replace gas hose clamps! lol

Don't shoot yourself in the foot, because all you'll be doing is chasing your tail. For example, you did not disclose that you are using some home made copper wire clamp in your first post. Do things, perhaps not like a professional, but at least how they're supposed to be, because you end up changing so many things you won't be able to figure out what's what, and end up with the inevitable issues. Call HTP and order their gas lens kits. They deal with CK worldwide, so they have good parts. You should call up Everlast to get tech support as they can also help you over the phone so you can properly set your machine and setup as a whole.

Once you get past the basics, you can be well on your way and simply "know" instead of wonder.

My first aluminum beads in the last 3 years or so when I tried out my Invertig 400. No extraneous soot, no ugliness, no non-sense. While your beads may not be straight, or evenly spaced out ripple pattern, your machine should be able to produce clean welds right off the bat.

Heh ; Oscar, Advice noted and appreciated .
Thanks
Keith