Welding Tips and Tricks

Hi, I am having problems with porosity, major porosity. This is my second post, I have everything set up and am trying to lay some beads. Attached are some photos. I am running 15-20 on 100% argon. I am using 3/32 tungsten and er70s2. I’ve tried Welds between 75 and 100 amps. I have flow at the torch, I’m just so new at this it’s a little confusing. Thanks in advance for your help.

What is the metal? It looks like there is a clear coat? It must be clean

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You have a gas contamination or flow issue. Retrace your steps/connections. Are you sure your supplier didn't give you a C25 mix for argon? Let's see actual pictures of how you set everything up as you were a bit confused how to set up your welder for TIG.

Cup size? Too much on too small of a cup can give problems as well.

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The metal is plain carbon steel, it’s clean don’t know why it looks so shiny. I checked my invoice and I was sold argon, guess I have to take their word. I will send pictures of the set up but to run through it, I have the hose hooked to the flow regulator, the ground to the negative and the torch to the positive, and the machine is set to the tig setting, that’s all the strings there are on this machine. Cup size is a 5 non gas lens and measured 5/16 stick out. I tried a few more beads most the are the same with a two that have no porosity. Thanks, pictures won’t be until late tomorrow.

Ok, two things wrong so far. The TIG torch goes on the Negative terminal, and the work clamp goes on the positive. This gives you DCEN polarity, which is what you need at the moment. Will wait on pictures.

Also, you need to decrease your stick out. With such a tiny cup and low gas flow and add in the fact that we don't know your actual arc length, you could easily be losing gas coverage on top of the fact that you have the wrong polarity. Use a #7 or 8 cup, make sure the tungsten is not sticking out more than 1/8 to 3/16" past the cup, and use about 15-17 CFH on the flowmeter/regulator. Keep the arc length no more than 2-3mm.

jody has good beginner tig welding video's. go binge watch them.

Polarity. Swap your leads as oscar pointed out.


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I should correct myself about the gas flow where I said it was low, I dunno why I said that, as it is very high. A #5 cup should be more like 8-12 CFH. My bad, but still, lots more research needs to be done (watch more YouTube videos)! But do ask and post pics, as it saves everybody time.

Will do, I am also going to get more variety of cups as only a 4,5 came with my torch. I watch jodys videos as well as bob moffets. Thanks again for the input. In a couple of days I will repost pics.

If your polarity was wrong and your were running dc ep, you would not be able to keep the end of your tungsten from burning away when striking up an arc. Was that happening?

snoeproe wrote:If your polarity was wrong and your were running dc ep, you would not be able to keep the end of your tungsten from burning away when striking up an arc. Was that happening?

You right. Good question

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snoeproe wrote:If your polarity was wrong and your were running dc ep, you would not be able to keep the end of your tungsten from burning away when striking up an arc. Was that happening?

I had the same thing on a dynasty 400.

I was able to get a arc (lift arc due to HF not functioning from backwards polarity)

Was also able to keep the tungsten from exploding by cracking the balance to one direction (reversed of what it should be)


So it is possible to get a arc and maintain the tungsten depending on the machi e and whether or not he could set his balance.

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Toggatug wrote:

snoeproe wrote:If your polarity was wrong and your were running dc ep, you would not be able to keep the end of your tungsten from burning away when striking up an arc. Was that happening?

I had the same thing on a dynasty 400.

I was able to get a arc (lift arc due to HF not functioning from backwards polarity)

Was also able to keep the tungsten from exploding by cracking the balance to one direction (reversed of what it should be)


So it is possible to get a arc and maintain the tungsten depending on the machi e and whether or not he could set his balance.

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I'm confused.
He was welding with dc. Not AC
What exactly would he be balancing?

Hi folks, sorry I haven’t got back to post replies nutty hours at work. I have a day off tomorrow, first since my picture post. I picked up a #7 and 8 cup, I switched my leads and I am going to give it another go tomorrow. From all your replies I am going to concentrate on gas flow and stick out. I really think I need to focus on gas, I am also going to check my torch to make sure it’s not leaking, I hear some flow but never thought to check the back cap etc. I will check back tomorrow after my second try, thanks for all the input.

tucker, make sure there is a little o ring (installed with a little moisture) on the back cap and the insulator on the working end of the torch that the cup seats against.

Hi folks, I tried again today and had much better results. I tried to post pics but kept getting an error message. The porosity issues are gone, I stepped down the gas and adjusted my stick out as suggested and I think I’m on my way. Now travel speed and adding filler wire. I will keep trying to add today’s pics so they can be critiqued as needed, thanks for all your help.

Hi folks, I tried again today and had much better results. I tried to post pics but kept getting an error message. The porosity issues are gone, I stepped down the gas and adjusted my stick out as suggested and I think I’m on my way. Now travel speed and adding filler wire. I will keep trying to add today’s pics so they can be critiqued as needed, thanks for all your help.

snoeproe wrote:

Toggatug wrote:

snoeproe wrote:If your polarity was wrong and your were running dc ep, you would not be able to keep the end of your tungsten from burning away when striking up an arc. Was that happening?

I had the same thing on a dynasty 400.

I was able to get a arc (lift arc due to HF not functioning from backwards polarity)

Was also able to keep the tungsten from exploding by cracking the balance to one direction (reversed of what it should be)


So it is possible to get a arc and maintain the tungsten depending on the machi e and whether or not he could set his balance.

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I'm confused.
He was welding with dc. Not AC
What exactly would he be balancing?

My point was more so that all sorts of weird things happen when those leads get swapped. It basically seemed like it flipped my whole machine around

Your probably right about the no balance control though cause I think of memory serves right I only welded aluminium when I had the leads backwards.

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tuckerweld wrote:Hi folks, I tried again today and had much better results. I tried to post pics but kept getting an error message. The porosity issues are gone, I stepped down the gas and adjusted my stick out as suggested and I think I’m on my way. Now travel speed and adding filler wire. I will keep trying to add today’s pics so they can be critiqued as needed, thanks for all your help.

Even with thise super small pics I can still see a gas problem. Slow down and figure it out first. Forget filler, or even travel speed.

I did see a little porosity
, but what other issues did you see regarding gas? Thanks

Well, that's the main issue. You can't have any porosity, none, if you want to progress as a weldor of any level.

That’s the goal.

Try welding a spot without filler. Then a bead without filler. You should be able to get shiny metal. Your beads look scorched, which could be a gas problem.

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Thanks, I appreciate all the input. I just need to practice as this was only my second attempt at tig. I really enjoy the process