[Win_iT]

Dear Fellows,

I have a Aluminum Cylinder 390mm OD and 400mm Length. Thickness of cylinder is 3mm.
3mm Aluminum Plate worth same height 400mm will be welded to the cylinder.
Keeping the Aluminum plate as much straight as possible is required.

Al Weld Details.PNG (56.27 KiB) Viewed 1350 times

May you please let me know what should be Weld details. As much information as you may provide will be helpful.
I am a beginner designer.

Details may be:

Length of weld,
thickness of weld,
distance between weld,
Spot weld or continuous weld
TIG is correct selection for weld.?
Filler rod detail
Temperature

Thank you. I am thankful for your time and consideration.

[Spartan]

Length of weld: Depends on intended application and stress loads
thickness of weld: Depends on intended application and stress loads
distance between weld: Depends on intended application and stress loads
Spot weld or continuous weld: Depends on intended application and stress loads
TIG is correct selection for weld.? TIG is probably best choice, but MIG would also work.
Filler rod detail: Depends on type of AL, and if any post-processes.
Temperature: A 200A machine should be able to get the job done. Fair bit of mass there due to sizes, though, even though the AL isn't thick.

[Win_iT]

Depends on intended application and stress loads
.

Many thanks for your reply. Application is just to compartmentalize vertical rods. There will not be significant loading on the parts. It is sort of shelf. Does that explain intended application?

[Spartan]

Well, if it's not load-bearing or safety related, then running a few stitch welds up each side should be just fine.

If it were me, and only for a container of sorts, I would just run probably 3 or 4 stitch welds up each side, each one being about 2 inches long. But that decision is yours to make based on the circumstances, not mine.

Good luck, and post a pic of how it turns out.

[Win_iT]

3 or 4 stitch welds up each side, each one being about 2 inches long.

Thanks Spartan.

Below is how, vertical rods will be compartmentalize between central cylindrical part and 4 blades/plates as shown.
These will be put inside a drum, that will be lifting entire assembly. So loading wise, only tilting of rods due to available space will put load on blades. Otherwise, no loading on blades.

Al Weld Details2.PNG (31.17 KiB) Viewed 1290 times

TIG is correct choice right? Or MIG works as well?
Surface finish or aesthetics is not the criterion. Low cost is the priority.

Hope this gives more info. If you have any further info, will help.

Again, Many thanks for responding.

[Spartan]

I thought you were making some sort of storage container for your workbench, shop, etc. If you are designing/engineering complex parts for customers, then you need to pay an experienced and properly trained designer/engineer to figure these things out. No way around it really.

[tweake]

3 or 4 stitch welds up each side, each one being about 2 inches long.

Thanks Spartan.

Below is how, vertical rods will be compartmentalize between central cylindrical part and 4 blades/plates as shown.
These will be put inside a drum, that will be lifting entire assembly. So loading wise, only tilting of rods due to available space will put load on blades. Otherwise, no loading on blades.

Al Weld Details2.PNG

TIG is correct choice right? Or MIG works as well?
Surface finish or aesthetics is not the criterion. Low cost is the priority.

Hope this gives more info. If you have any further info, will help.

Again, Many thanks for responding.

the cylinder part has no load on it so it can be almost tacked in place. a few stitch welds would be fine. mig is quicker and will be fine for the application.

the tricky bit is the centre lifting eye and base.
also i would weld the cylinder and plate to the base which will help stiffen the base. one problem may be the load sits on the weld, all depends on what fits in there and clearances. use tig for critical welds.

[Spartan]

Sure looks like a lifting eye in the center of that thing to me

Good luck. Don't forget to have an engineer's signature on the design to cover the insurance claims.

[BillE.Dee]

Looks like a canister for a cryo tank or some type of wash canister.

[BugHunter]

Dear Fellows,

I have a Aluminum Cylinder 390mm OD and 400mm Length. Thickness of cylinder is 3mm.
3mm Aluminum Plate worth same height 400mm will be welded to the cylinder.
Keeping the Aluminum plate as much straight as possible is required.

Al Weld Details.PNG

May you please let me know what should be Weld details. As much information as you may provide will be helpful.
I am a beginner designer.

Details may be:

Length of weld,
thickness of weld,
distance between weld,
Spot weld or continuous weld
TIG is correct selection for weld.?
Filler rod detail
Temperature

Thank you. I am thankful for your time and consideration.

Given what I'm guessing from your other responses...

Length of weld: Depends if you are welding on both sides of the plate. If yes, I'd say 3cm top and bottom would cover it. If not, welding only one side will require more weld since it'll fatigue and break off over time without support on the opposite side.

thickness of weld: If you just get it to weld, it'll be fine. Use a very tight arc with the tig and you'll do a much better job in that root. Clean, clean, clean, and wire brush to help break up the oxides before you weld.

distance between weld: Test with one piece, weld it and try to smash the fins off. If they come off, weld some more!

Spot weld or continuous weld: Some small 3cm welds would be fine for most cases, imho.

TIG is correct selection for weld.?: It'll certainly work. If you use a mig and a spool gun, just be sure to hit both sides. In my experience, a mig'ed weld in alum on only one side is almost guaranteed to fail eventually.
Filler rod detail

Temperature: ?? 150A would be fine if you are asking how much power to apply. When doing an inside corner, arc length really affects that amperage requirement a lot more than say on a butt or lap joint. Even a tiny bit longer arc requires vastly more amps to keep the puddle going. That's because the arc tends to wander up the sides of the two members. Stay in really super close, maybe even backing the torch up some just as you dab so as not to dip the tungsten. Torch angle is also less forgiving in an inside corner, so stay as straight up as possible.

[Win_iT]

Looks like a canister for a cryo tank or some type of wash canister.

Thank you for your reply BillE.
It as a lifting equipment.
Vertical bars are rested on base plate, which in turn will be kept inside a cylindrical container.

The vertical cylinder with blade is just to compartmentalize the rods.

Hope this solves doubt.

[Win_iT]

Many Many thanks Hunter.
Both side tack weld, 3cm long. TiG welding.
Will clean well and brush off the oxides.
Lol... I do not intend to do Destructive testing

The last part of the message was quite informative. Many thanks. Many Many thanks.

Length of weld: Depends if you are welding on both sides of the plate. If yes, I'd say 3cm top and bottom would cover it. If not, welding only one side will require more weld since it'll fatigue and break off over time without support on the opposite side.

thickness of weld: If you just get it to weld, it'll be fine. Use a very tight arc with the tig and you'll do a much better job in that root. Clean, clean, clean, and wire brush to help break up the oxides before you weld.

distance between weld: Test with one piece, weld it and try to smash the fins off. If they come off, weld some more!

Spot weld or continuous weld: Some small 3cm welds would be fine for most cases, imho.

TIG is correct selection for weld.?: It'll certainly work. If you use a mig and a spool gun, just be sure to hit both sides. In my experience, a mig'ed weld in alum on only one side is almost guaranteed to fail eventually.
Filler rod detail

Temperature: ?? 150A would be fine if you are asking how much power to apply. When doing an inside corner, arc length really affects that amperage requirement a lot more than say on a butt or lap joint. Even a tiny bit longer arc requires vastly more amps to keep the puddle going. That's because the arc tends to wander up the sides of the two members. Stay in really super close, maybe even backing the torch up some just as you dab so as not to dip the tungsten. Torch angle is also less forgiving in an inside corner, so stay as straight up as possible.