Welding Tips and Tricks

I've been doing Jody's aluminium drill over on and off over the years - laying beads on scrap aluminium pieces to get plenty of set time and improve my skills. I've never given any thought to the spec of the base metal, that's assuming I could have found that out. Often, they have been strips used for test pieces at welding colleges or strip from ebay. I use 4043 filler wire as well as 5356, which I like.

Recently, I bought a piece of 3.2mm box section aluminium on ebay. The seller thinks it's 6063 T6. I immediately noticed that I needed far less current to lay my beads, and that the filler metal flowed easier and that the finished result was better. It really was almost like night and day compared to previous aluminium pieces used. Unfortunately, I have no idea what the spec of those pieces is that I have used previously, and the base metal was the only factor that changed; all settings, the gas and the filler wire were the same. So, one thing I have learned is that the aluminium base metal can make a significant different to the end result.

I'd be very grateful to learn if anyone has noticed anything similar or has any suggestions etc.

I weld a lot of dirty aluminum in the boat repair business.

Cast certainly weld different.

The 5000 series plate seems to be different than the tubing I encounter which is usually a 6000 series.

I find it odd this thread popped up today. I am using brand new 6061 right now to reinforce a cracked and broken motor well and transom assembly from a pontoon. I did notice that the brand new stuff is so much easier than old stuff i usually repurpose. I even am getting "instagram" welds almost on this job. The ease of that 6061 is playing a part but more likely it's one of the few times I am not on my back using my knee on the pedal.

Jakedaawg wrote:I weld a lot of dirty aluminum in the boat repair business.

Cast certainly weld different.

The 5000 series plate seems to be different than the tubing I encounter which is usually a 6000 series.

I find it odd this thread popped up today. I am using brand new 6061 right now to reinforce a cracked and broken motor well and transom assembly from a pontoon. I did notice that the brand new stuff is so much easier than old stuff i usually repurpose. I even am getting "instagram" welds almost on this job. The ease of that 6061 is playing a part but more likely it's one of the few times I am not on my back using my knee on the pedal.

Many thanks. So I'm not necessarily going mad! And I forgot to mention that thickness wan't a factor because, if anything, the thickness of this 6063 box section was slightly more than I have previously been using. Many thanks; I very much appreciate the input of someone with your experience.

Welding mystery metal is always a challenge, you just never know what you really have.

Even if the AL is the same composition (say, 6061), welding scrap/old pieces is often more of a challenge than welding new pieces, especially if the stock sat outside or in any other unfavorable conditions for any period of time, and even if the scrap is heavily prepped.

I'm no metallurgist, but I'm convinced that AL begins to develop some sort of micro-pores or micro-fissures over time, especially if left outside, that eat down into the base metal and harbor oxides that interfere with the welding. Just a guess, because I don't know how else to rationalize it.

TraditionalToolworks wrote:Welding mystery metal is always a challenge, you just never know what you really have.

That sure was today’s lesson for me. And whilst 2 pieces can look identical - same cleanliness, surface finish, thickness - and are both called “aluminium” or even “aluminum” , they sure can behave differently when the arc strikes up!

Many thanks.

Spartan wrote:Even if the AL is the same composition (say, 6061), welding scrap/old pieces is often more of a challenge than welding new pieces, especially if the stock sat outside or in any other unfavorable conditions for any period of time, and even if the scrap is heavily prepped.

Indeed, and even in the cases I thought I could save money and get scrap and clean it up, it's most always more work than I expect and in the end I wish I had just got clean new steel to begin with.

At SIMS I can get some stamped aluminum, so at least I'll know it's 6061 from Kaiser, but some times it's dinged up and even has big indents in it, not to mention it's often just dirty on the outside.

Spartan wrote:I'm no metallurgist, but I'm convinced that AL begins to develop some sort of micro-pores or micro-fissures over time, especially if left outside, that eat down into the base metal and harbor oxides that interfere with the welding. Just a guess, because I don't know how else to rationalize it.

I agree, and don't know exactly what happens either, but I do know it's harder for me to work with. What I also know is that even if you mill the surface off aluminum, it will create an oxidation layer over time, so this must have something to do with metal that is outside.

martinr wrote:That sure was today’s lesson for me. And whilst 2 pieces can look identical - same cleanliness, surface finish, thickness - and are both called “aluminium” or even “aluminum” , they sure can behave differently when the arc strikes up!

Steel is much safer as it's more forgiving, and ER70S-2/ER70S-6 are often a decent bet. But it's often very dirty also when buying scrap. Heck even if you don't get pickled and oiled steel when buying new, it can take a fair amount of cleanup, and it's new! (this is especially true for tig)

As they say, caveat emptor!

martinr wrote:
Recently, I bought a piece of 3.2mm box section aluminium on ebay. The seller thinks it's 6063 T6. I immediately noticed that I needed far less current to lay my beads, and that the filler metal flowed easier and that the finished result was better. It really was almost like night and day compared to previous aluminium pieces used. Unfortunately, I have no idea what the spec of those pieces is that I have used previously, and the base metal was the only factor that changed; all settings, the gas and the filler wire were the same. So, one thing I have learned is that the aluminium base metal can make a significant different to the end result.

I'd be very grateful to learn if anyone has noticed anything similar or has any suggestions etc.

i've had the same thing, tho not ebay mystery metal.

the tank i welded up was 5 series 1/8 sheet and was supplied with some outlets to be welded in about 3/8 thick.
set machine to max amps as 3/8 is getting up there, but found the 3/8 puddled quicker than the 1/8.
no idea why. if its to do with type or hardness. the 1/8 was really hard aluminium. i was using steel/inox cut off blades to cut it as the aluminum blades disappeared in a cloud of dust.

Thank you everyone for the benefit of your experience. You’ve solved the mystery for me, and I finally understand why I couldn’t get the puddle to flow in the sane way that I saw in the close-up shots in Jody’s aluminum-drill videos. Reinforces my belief that Jody’s videos have taught me more than all the welding courses I’ve attended over the years.

This has definitely been one of the most important welding lessons I’ve learned so far. I’m no longer perplexed and it feels as if there’s been an overnight improvement in my TIG skills. Sincere thanks to all.

hello Martinr and welcome. I believe that working with 1/8 or 3/16 thickness and bigger coupons will help you get the feel for the tig process . the thin aluminum gets to be challenge due to the Klingon disappearance and the small coupons get heat soaked quickly. Clean the material with a dedicated stainless brush and wipe it with acetone or like (no brake cleaner). For starters just try running beads and after a bit begin to add filler. Have fun and be patient, it does come together.....and as far as the base metal goes, no explanation why from me but it happens.

BillE.Dee wrote:hello Martinr and welcome. I believe that working with 1/8 or 3/16 thickness and bigger coupons will help you get the feel for the tig process . the thin aluminum gets to be challenge due to the Klingon disappearance and the small coupons get heat soaked quickly. Clean the material with a dedicated stainless brush and wipe it with acetone or like (no brake cleaner). For starters just try running beads and after a bit begin to add filler. Have fun and be patient, it does come together.....and as far as the base metal goes, no explanation why from me but it happens.

Many thanks, Bill. As luck would have it, I’ve recently renewed my set of 3 stainless wire brushes (one each for mild steel, aluminium, and stainless). I also religiously wipe down the filler rod with acetone (my 5053 rods leave a load of crud on the tissue).

I have noticed that heat soak on small pieces (and towards the end of the plate) is problematic, and that there’s also a sweet spot of pre-heat when things go swimmingly. Practice makes perfect. Thanks for your kind advice.