[jeryc0]

Hello, I just bought an Everlast Lightning MTS 225, received it a few weeks ago and I can't do a decent bead on aluminum with TIG.

I reached a point where if I run a bead without filler the cleaning action is working and I have a clean bead, if I try to add filler it blackens and balls and contaminates the pool.

I tried on difrent sizes of Al, scrap and new, cleaned, acetone wiped, brushed... also the filler cleaned and kept in the shield zone, no success.

Lately I tried on 1/8" material, new but cleaned (brushed with stainless steel brush used only on Al, acetone wiped) with 140 A, 120 HZ, 30% balance (is the right way, if I put more I put to much amps on the tungsten, what I try to say the machine is working like that is not the other way, 30-35% should be enough); .2 seconds pref low, 5 seconds post flow, HF start with pedal, square wave.
I am using the delivered tig torch, a WP - 26 with flex cord

IMG_5938.JPG (58.52 KiB) Viewed 2250 times

with the delivered accessories, although I tried with gas lenses but is worse, so a no 6 cup, 3/32" 1.5% lanthanum tungsten, sharpened, truncated.

Since everything is new, including me as a welder I have no idea what is going bad beside me as a welder. I bought 3 different flow meters, I bought a new gas bottle 100 % argon, I checked for leakages from the bottle to the inlet of the welder and there is no leakage but I don't know how should be the torch.

I removed the cup and the lens and put a cap, and started the gas and I have leakages at the cap, where it should be and at the cup, between the cup and the insulator

IMG_6042.jpg (51.96 KiB) Viewed 2250 times

I marked with yellow the places were I have leaks, it should be without leaks in that area as well? I am out of any ideas on why I can run a bead, not decent, a bed...I don't think the welder is the problem, or could it be?
here is how my best TIG weld looks like:

IMG_5949.JPG (39.97 KiB) Viewed 2250 times

the filler material is 4043 3/32"

please, please, if you have any suggestion will be great, this is killing me slowly

[Jakedaawg]

Looks like you need to set the torch up better. Little oring for the cap maybe? You aren't getting good gas coverage. Also appears maybe too much torch angle and a long arc.


So, put you tungsten in so it sticks out maybe 1/8" or 3/16" from the cup. Dial in about 20 feet of flow, secure back cap, etc...the cup and cap need to be snug.

[TraditionalToolworks]

Maybe your manual describes how to set the torch up, not sure.

Are you using a gas lens or collet body?

Loosen the back cap entirely, hand tighten the collet body or gas lens, put your tungsten in and tighten the back cap.

Make sure your cup is tight and seals.

Are you using the Everlast consumables?

You didn't give enough information.

[Oscar]

You can only expect a certain amount of pressure to hold, as plugging up the torch was never meant to happen. You have leaks because you're forcing them in a system that wan't meant to be leak-proof in that manner; it is meant to be a free-flowing system that seals just enough when working properly. They are likely not occurring there naturally.

Let's see how you set up the torch and how you are holding it with respect to the base material.

Forget about joining two pieces for right now. You need to be able to get a SINGLE CLEAN SHINY PUDDLE. No filler, just 1 circular puddle. If you can't get that, you can't proceed even a single millimeter.

[cj737]

Torch height and angle.

Adding filler, you are inadvertently tilting the torch too far back and holding it too far away from the weld, introducing oxygen into the weld pool.

[tweake]

I reached a point where if I run a bead without filler the cleaning action is working and I have a clean bead, if I try to add filler it blackens and balls and contaminates the pool.

i think that says it all.
as mentioned probably changing torch angle when adding filler.
also a possibility of long arc length and that tends to cook the filler when you go to add it, especially if you keep the filler shielded.
aluminium is a bit different to steel in that it doesn't matter if its kept shielded. many will pull the filler out of the shielding gas to allow it to cool down. (mentioned in one of the everlast video's).
also add filler on the edge of the puddle.
i also would up the amps a bit and get going a bit quicker then reduce amps as required.

[aeroplain]

When I set my Everlast up, I had the same issue. Turned out the hose clamps it came with were worse than sub-par. I made sure to change them out and the problem went away. Could be suckin wind.

[BillE.Dee]

jeryco, make sure there is a little o ring on the back cap. loosen the back cap quite a bit and insert the collet body and collet on the other end to finger tight. insert the tungsten then tighten the back cap to snug, not overly tight. when you're welding you need to get the tungsten snuggly close to the work piece and tilt the torch just enough so you can see the tungsten pushing the puddle. just work without adding filler for a while till you get used to working the torch. the 30% cleaning should be good on cleaned material. turn the freq down to about 100. make sure the regulator is for argon and around 14 to 17 cfm. that's where mine works anyway. I have a 26 torch and it's like using boxing gloves to sort thru pepper. good luck and have fun.
gramps

[Oscar]

Looking back at the picture of the weld, I'm not so sure that filler is even aluminum. I thought it was soot, but it looks like a weird deposit of some kind, almost like the sugar'ing you get when molten SS comes in contact with oxygen. I'm wondering if SS filler rod was also ordered with this order...

Also, I see zero cleaning action given that it should be pretty visible for 30% EP.....

something's not right.

[jeryc0]

I can’t believe I’ve got so many replays, I’m really overwhelmed and speechless, thank you so much for your kindness and time, I feel so bad that I’m not near the bench till Tuesday next week to test and retest (I’ll have to go and buy more Al ).

Before I left yesterday I spent an hour or so to test the torch, I did as follows, I installed first the collet and collet body, thread it to torch, snug at finger force, then the cup (no 7), snug as well, then I used the cap ( the oring is in place, in fact I replaced it) And I noticed is not reaching inside the torch, there is a 2 mm gap between the torch and the cap shoulder, then I put some cleaning windows product in foam state around the cup to torch connection and cap to torch connection then i pressed the foot switch for gas flow ( the cup was free but no tungsten in) and I noticed bubbles around the cap -torch connection (gas flow - 20 cfh). Next i removed the cup and collet body and tighten the cap snug and then inserted the collet and collet body and redone the flow test, no bubbles this time.

Then I tried a bead with same settings as before same tungsten and good cleaning action, fast puddle, shiny and shiny bead without filler. I cleaned 2 coupons of 1/8”thick and about 2 inch long and tried again a corner joint, I also replaced the filler rod, till now I was trying with 3/32” 4043 rod now I went and bought 3/32” 5356 rod and this is the result (much better)

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Don’t mind the right corner because in that place I tried to tack it and ... well I failed then I tried from the other side (I hold the torch with my left hand) and worked better.
The torch is indeed heavy and bulky maybe I should get a smaller one, but is there one that can handle 200A and better than this?

Not sure if is the right thing to do, snug the cap and not the collet body but in this way I had no bubbles, the gas went out the cup, also not sure what caused a better weld (not good, better but I’m going somewhere) - the lack of bubbles or the 5356 filler.

And finally, most likely I am doing a long arc and a bad angle, the torch has also the switch installed and is even more difficult to handle for me, I should probably remove that too for the moment.
Once again, thank you very much and I’ll get back with more pictures and answers when I’ll triy every sugestion I received

[Spartan]

Yes, definitely ditch the switch if you have no plans to use it in the near term. It'll just be in the way, and the switches that come with the Everlast machines are noticeably chunky. They are not difficult to reattach when/if you do need it.

Also, a water cooled torch like the CK20 is a good option if you want a smaller torch that can handle 200 amps and more (250 rating). It's a pricey thing to jump into, but worth it, IMO. And as Jody always says: "Once you go wet, you never regret".

Note: Jody has never actually said that.

[Oscar]

I generally do not tighten the backcap first, because I don't want the collet body hanging by the skin of it's teeth. To me it's more important for the collet body to grab to conduct the current and to transfer heat into the torch head. On my torches, the backcap shoulder doesn't meet the torch body rubber, but at the same time I don't have any leaks either. The rubber on the back of the torch head should be a very tight fit around the O-ring on the back cap. That is how it seals. If it is too loose, then it's the cheap torch doing you in.

I have a feeling you are not running your filler rod through scotch-brite pad to clean the oxides off and then wiping it down with a clean rag soaked in acetone, are you? If so, how much crud is the clean rag picking up? It should be quite a bit of black, with each and every swipe.

[TraditionalToolworks]

And I noticed is not reaching inside the torch, there is a 2 mm gap between the torch and the cap shoulder

This usually means the wrong consumables are being used. Sometimes you just need to push hard to get the o-ring to seat inside so you can start threading the back cap, but more often than not the collet is too long for the consumables you're using.

Take your torch completely apart, only thread the collet body in the front of the torch finger tight. Now thread the cup on and snug it up. It should seal nicely on the insulator. Now insert the collet in the rear of the torch head, small end first. Now barely start to thread the back cap on the torch, and before full tightening it, insert your clean sharp tungsten in the front of the torch, and finally tighten up the back cap leaving about 1/4" - 1/2" of your tungsten sticking out. You said using a #7 cup, the tungsten should be sticking out 7/16" from the front of the cup. (you should be using about 15 CFH of gas)

Next i removed the cup and collet body and tighten the cap snug and then inserted the collet and collet body and redone the flow test, no bubbles this time.

This is wrong even if you get no bubbles, I would keep looking as something is wrong. You should always tighten the collet body before the back cap.

Are you using Everlast consumables or have you purchased others? If you purchased others you may have purchased the wrong ones for your torch.

The torch is indeed heavy and bulky maybe I should get a smaller one, but is there one that can handle 200A and better than this?

I wouldn't purchase anything until you have your torch working with the provided consumables. There is no reason to throw money away. I used the exact same torch for a month or two before replacing the torch head with a flex head off Amazon, and I used the exact same torch with the $10 flex head for about 8 month to a year before buying a new torch. There is nothing wrong with it, but it is your choice, I'm not trying to tell you what to do, only suggesting.

And finally, most likely I am doing a long arc and a bad angle

Your tungsten should be no farther than 1/8" from the material. And yes, you need to be careful not to dip the tungsten or jam the filler into it. If you see any corrosion whatsoever, or any oddities with the tungsten, stop and correct it.

[TraditionalToolworks]

I removed the cup and the lens and put a cap, and started the gas and I have leakages at the cap, where it should be and at the cup, between the cup and the insulator

I marked with yellow the places were I have leaks, it should be without leaks in that area as well? I am out of any ideas on why I can run a bead, not decent, a bed...I don't think the welder is the problem, or could it be?

Not sure what you're trying to do here, this is a horrible test. You can't put a back cap on the front of the torch, the gas is meant to flow out, Does the back cap even fit on the front of the torch?

My suggestion, quit purchasing flowmeters and other consumables until you get yours working.

Have you called Everlast support? Not that I recommend them, but have you called them for help?

[Oscar]

So, put you tungsten in so it sticks out maybe 1/8" or 3/16" from the cup. Dial in about 20 feet of flow, secure back cap, etc...the cup and cap need to be snug.

This quite above I agree with, not 7/16" with only 15 CFH. That is a recipe for disaster, IMO.

[TraditionalToolworks]

This quite above I agree with, not 7/16" with only 15 CFH. That is a recipe for disaster, IMO.

That's the accepted amount, the diameter of the cup.

No reason that won't work. I weld like that most of the time. Granted my welds are probably not as nice as yours, but I try to be humble.

[jeryc0]

I was trying to test if the torch is holding the gas, yes the cap fits the collet body threads, I understood from the beginning that I have to snug first the collet body and then place the collet from the cap side, screw in the cap, insert the tungsten at right stick out and then tight the cap but I was getting bubbles out at cap to torch connection and I was thinking is not good, I'll try to do it the right way, even with bubbles and see the outcome.

yes the accessories are the ones provided with the torch (the torch is not the stock but the flex cable one) i did tried with some cheap gas lens but did not improve anything so I went back to stock.

I bought a second flow meter because I had one with 2 gauges not the flow meter, then the one delivered with welder is not a good fit for our country standard so I bought a flow meter that fits the gas bottle.

I did not contacted Everlast support, I tried the forum section, I think that is the way to do it (beside calling), didn't see any other support but when I tried to access the forum's register page I received a message that I was banned .... they'll probably call me stupid ( in fact not that far from truth ) but I should at least try..

[jeryc0]

Off topic: just tried again to reach forums section on Everlast web page and is working, don't want to trash talk for no reason, maybe was a problem with the web site when I tried the first time or maybe because I'm accessing it from Europe...

[Spartan]

I recommend calling them. They are very responsive to phone calls, and I don't think I've ever even had to be on hold waiting for a tech.

[Oscar]

This quite above I agree with, not 7/16" with only 15 CFH. That is a recipe for disaster, IMO.

That's the accepted amount, the diameter of the cup.

No reason that won't work. I weld like that most of the time. Granted my welds are probably not as nice as yours, but I try to be humble.

Not universally accepted, certainly not by me. Possible? Absolutely. But with only 15 CFH it is teetering on the brink of not using enough shielding gas and bam you got porosity, and usually one of the sources of beginners wanting to know "what am I doing wrong"? 7/16" + a beginner holding to long of an arc like 1/4" = the orifice of the cup is now almost 3/4" away from the base metal(!). Ain't no way 15 CFH will cover that spread. I'm with jakedawg on this one. Short(er) stickout, and a smidge more gas flow. Straighten out the torch (for the beginners) and it all but guarantees a high probability of success early-on.

[BillE.Dee]

did I see where he said he tried a gas lens and then went back ? IF he is using the collet for the gas lens on the original, it wont fit properly...maybe the gas flow will be there, but the tightness of the back cap will be wrong and MAYYYYBEEE, causing problems. But I think IF he gets snuggly close to the material and not so much TILT and not a lot of stick out and PUSH the puddle, he'll be better off.
It's now beer thirty. TOOTLES.

[cj737]

Stop chasing rabbits. There’s nothing wrong with your torch or consumables or your machine. You’ve stated twice that without filler the weld is shiny, clean and good. It’s when you add filler that your problems occur. You also state the torch is heavy and bulky and you’ve just swapped hands.

All of this is clear evidence the issues are YOU, not your machine.

TIG is hard. TIG aluminum is even harder. Especially for someone self-taught and new. Keep practicing. The time you’d spend chasing all the advice in the world is time wasted that you should spend welding.

[Spartan]

Stop chasing rabbits. There’s nothing wrong with your torch or consumables or your machine. You’ve stated twice that without filler the weld is shiny, clean and good. It’s when you add filler that your problems occur. You also state the torch is heavy and bulky and you’ve just swapped hands.

All of this is clear evidence the issues are YOU, not your machine.

TIG is hard. TIG aluminum is even harder. Especially for someone self-taught and new. Keep practicing. The time you’d spend chasing all the advice in the world is time wasted that you should spend welding.

^^ This ^^

Also ditch the idea of trying to join two pieces together for now. Just run flat beads until you perfect that, then make the jump to trying joints.

[Oscar]

Stop chasing rabbits. There’s nothing wrong with your torch or consumables or your machine. You’ve stated twice that without filler the weld is shiny, clean and good. It’s when you add filler that your problems occur. You also state the torch is heavy and bulky and you’ve just swapped hands.

All of this is clear evidence the issues are YOU, not your machine.

TIG is hard. TIG aluminum is even harder. Especially for someone self-taught and new. Keep practicing. The time you’d spend chasing all the advice in the world is time wasted that you should spend welding.

^^ This ^^

Also ditch the idea of trying to join two pieces together for now. Just run flat beads until you perfect that, then make the jump to trying joints.

Yup, I agree as well, so long as one avoids the unholy trinity: Too much stickout, too much torch angle, too long arc length.

[sbaker56]

I'd probably run closer to 20CFH and drop the stick out slightly as well, just to eliminate that as a potential issue. If you're not dipping your tungsten CONSTANTLY right now, you're probably using way too much of a long arc. It takes practice at first, and even experts still dip on occasions because of how tight an arc you should ideally keep. You might be pulling your torch back excessively when you add filler, keeping too long of an arc to start with or angling the torch excessively and that's why you have issues when you use filler but not when you don't.

I've noticed you did say you brushed your aluminum, you may try sanding a piece as well with a new flap disc, I find it can take a long time to wire brush aluminum clean.