Welding Tips and Tricks

I was practicing TIG today on aluminum and noticed that the arc was inconsistent in how it started.
125A
3/32" 2% lanthanated
No pulse
Ground connected directly to the work

Sometimes I would have to bring the tungsten till it almost touched the work before the arc initiated. Once I accidentally pressed the pedal down a bit while the tungsten was 1/4" away from the work and blam, the arc initiated.
What would cause the difference?

Most likely some kind of grounding issue with the HF. I notice this with my TIG's sometimes. Just out of nowhere the arc won't initiate unless I tap the filler rod on the table or on the part. It's very random, so my analysis is only conjecture.

Thanks @Oscar, I presumed a grounding issue wasn't letting the HF start do its thing. I'll keep an eye on it to see if I see any patterns.

Try swapping your tungsten for a fresh one, or giving the current tungsten a fresh grind. Also try lightly hitting the area you are about to start an arc on with a wire brush, especially if it's a restart. In both cases, it may be an aluminum oxide layer interfering with the arc start...even if you didn't dip the tungsten, a tiny bit could have still popped up on it, and it spreads rapidly.

What’s your humidity like?

Spartan wrote:Try swapping your tungsten for a fresh one, or giving the current tungsten a fresh grind. Also try lightly hitting the area you are about to start an arc on with a wire brush, especially if it's a restart. In both cases, it may be an aluminum oxide layer interfering with the arc start...even if you didn't dip the tungsten, a tiny bit could have still popped up on it, and it spreads rapidly.

Thanks @spartan, I will definitely try that.


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Poland308 wrote:What’s your humidity like?

In the 85% range today.


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Does your machine have settings for the tungsten diameter? Mine does, and if yours does, then that is important because it determines the intensity of the high frequency output, which starts your Arc. Check your settings or menus. In my case you need to do it in a menu that is accessed by a special button press on the control panel.

BugHunter wrote:Does your machine have settings for the tungsten diameter? Mine does, and if yours does, then that is important because it determines the intensity of the high frequency output, which starts your Arc. Check your settings or menus. In my case you need to do it in a menu that is accessed by a special button press on the control panel.

No there's no setting for tungsten diameter.
The intensity is what seems to differ, sometimes it really intense and will light up 1/4" away (when I accidentally press the pedal slightly) and other times in the same session it's about as intense as the flint in a worn out lighter.

Definitely give that tungsten a fresh grind, make sure you grind parallel to the tip and maybe a take a few minutes to check the HF spark gap (assuming it has points).

G-ManBart wrote:Definitely give that tungsten a fresh grind, make sure you grind parallel to the tip and maybe a take a few minutes to check the HF spark gap (assuming it has points).

Thanks, I will definitely do that.
I don't actually know if the Primeweld 225 has points but I will find out.

I've only had the issues once. I started by cleaning the contact areas of the ground clamp. That solved it. I had also replaced my collet at the same time but I think it was scraping the ground clamp that did it.

Heard from Primeweld that there are points that can be adjusted. Haven't opened thew hood yet to peek inside.

did you happen to ask if your opening the machine to adjust the points will void the warranty? I thought your machine was new, unless ya got hi humidity and dust particles running around that might be causing the points to fuzz over. that's just a thought and I do get lots of them,,,,

BillE.Dee wrote:did you happen to ask if your opening the machine to adjust the points will void the warranty? I thought your machine was new, unless ya got hi humidity and dust particles running around that might be causing the points to fuzz over. that's just a thought and I do get lots of them,,,,

That question is still hanging... I'll update as I get answers.
My gut sense is that it's not a points issue rather user error; bad ground, goobered tungsten or both!

EDIT: opening up the Primeweld to check the points will NOT void my warranty according to Dustin Gallaher from Primeweld.

WHERE in thee hell did you come up with the word goobered? An old buddy of mine has been calling me goober for a long time simply because I had some goobers on a weld.

BillE.Dee wrote:WHERE in thee hell did you come up with the word goobered? An old buddy of mine has been calling me goober for a long time simply because I had some goobers on a weld.

Gosh I don't know actually...it's been a word I've used for a long time to describe blobs.
Absolutely did not mean to offend if I did

My AHP has gotten me into the habit of tapping the tungsten on the work before hitting the pedal.
For me, it makes it start every time and gives me reference as I have depth perception issues. Yeah, I dip way too much

Jim FLinchbaugh wrote:My AHP has gotten me into the habit of tapping the tungsten on the work before hitting the pedal.
For me, it makes it start every time and gives me reference as I have depth perception issues. Yeah, I dip way too much

I do the same thing to make sure my arc length starts out tight.

Jim FLinchbaugh wrote:My AHP has gotten me into the habit of tapping the tungsten on the work before hitting the pedal.
For me, it makes it start every time and gives me reference as I have depth perception issues. Yeah, I dip way too much

Thanks Jim, do you do this because the arc doesn’t start consistently?


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Oscar wrote:

Jim FLinchbaugh wrote:My AHP has gotten me into the habit of tapping the tungsten on the work before hitting the pedal.
For me, it makes it start every time and gives me reference as I have depth perception issues. Yeah, I dip way too much

I do the same thing to make sure my arc length starts out tight.

I do as well. Really builds great muscle memory to keep the tungsten at the same tight distance every time. Makes it become second nature and to the point where you can strike good arcs without even having to look at it.

Sounds like a hi frequency issue. I've had issues with two different manufacturers machines that started like this. One needed a new hi frequency board and the other needed points adjusted. Both started out with the issue that i had to touch the material with the tungsten first and the lift off before I hit the pedal to start, until eventually they just wouldn't start at all. Maybe the factory didn't fully tighten the screws that hold the points in place once adjusted?

David, absolutely o offense over the goober .... an old friend of mine always used that along with gobbers when winding on someone's welds. OR else he would stand there looking up to the ceiling looking for birds with diahrea.

BillE.Dee wrote:David, absolutely o offense over the goober .... an old friend of mine always used that along with gobbers when winding on someone's welds. OR else he would stand there looking up to the ceiling looking for birds with diahrea.

Oh good! I’m glad no offence was taken.
I will from here on out refer to bird offerings as goobers


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